Buenos Aires Monserrat

Wussman, Venezuela 570 (☎4331 1887). S Belgrano. Though in reality a very expensive paper shop, most of the space in Wussman is actually taken up by a cutting-edge art gallery in front displaying works by edgy, modern Argentine artists. The art supplies, paper goods, gifts, antique books, and beautifully bound journals in back are, unfortunately, way overpriced. Open M-F 10:30am-8pm, Sa 10:30am-2pm. AmEx/V.

Teatro Avenida, Avenida de Mayo 1222 (☎4342 7650; www.balirica.org.ar). S Lima or Avenida de Mayo. This large, opulent theater mostly hosts Argentine lyrical opera. Tickets vary in price, from AR$180 for prime real estate to AR$25 for distant standing room.

La Trastienda, Balcarce 460 (☎4342 7650; www.latrastienda.com). S Plaza de Mayo. National and international groups play a variety of music here—pop, rock, electronica, reggae, tango—usually on F nights in a large hall behind the store and outdoor restaurant. Tickets AR$35-100; purchase online or at the box office. AmEx/MC/V.

Cafe Tortoni, Avenida de Mayo 825/9 (☎4342 4328; www.cafetortoni.com.ar). S Lima or Avenida de Mayo. Buenos Aires’ most famous cafe puts on a laid-back, yet lively tango show. The performance also often includes comedy bits, tap dancers, string quartets, and drummers. Sandwiches AR$9-25. Entrees AR$8-32. Wine by the bottle AR$16-105. Shows nightly at 9pm AR$60. Reserve in advance. AmEx/MC/V.
El Queradí, Perú 302 (☎5199 1770; www.querandi.com.ar). S Perú or Bolívar. Housed in a lovely 1920s building, El Queradí offers traditional tango/dinner shows nightly beginning around 8pm. Tickets AR$250. AmEx/MC/V.