Buenos Aires Retiro

Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm, M.T. de Alvear 626 (☎4312 3334/4443; www.fundacionfjklemm.org), between Maipú and Florida, in the basement of the mall just opposite the Plaza San Martín. S San Martín. This small, well-established gallery shows works by contemporary artists and a permanent collection that includes works by Max Ernst, Picasso, and Warhol. Open M-F 11am-8pm.
Galería Arroyo, Arroyo 830 (☎4325 0947; www.galarroyo.com). S San Martín. Opened in 1989 with an eye toward reinvigorating interest in out-of-fashion Argentine painters. Since 1997, the gallery has also hosted subastas (auctions). Open M-F 11am-8pm.
Palatina, Arroyo 821 (☎4327 0620; www.galeriapalatina.com.ar), across from Galería Arroyo. Another quality Arroyo gallery. Open M-F 10:30am-8pm, Sa 10am-1pm.

Teatro Coliseo, M.T. de Alvear 1125 (☎4816 3789). S San Martín. This large venue, originally a circus site, shows ballet, classical music, theater, and musicals. It also has a little bit of history—in 1920, Wagner’s opera Parsifal was broadcast by radio from here, making it one of the first operas to be sent over the airwaves. Only 20 homes in BA had receivers at the time, so not many got to hear it. Talk about a special engagement.

ND/Ateneo, Paraguay 918 (☎4328 2888; www.ndateneo.com.ar). S San Martín. Large theater hosts a huge variety of shows, concerts, and plays. Acts range from improv groups to schmaltzy tango singers and classical pianists. Box office open M-Sa noon-8pm.

Teatro Nacional Cervantes, Libertad 815 (☎4816 4224; www.teatrocervantes.gov.ar). S Uruguay or Carlos Pellegrini. This opulent theater presents musicals, theater productions (many Spanish plays, in particular), and dance. At the time of publication, the theater was partially closed for a much-needed face lift.