Buenos Aires Palermo

Tiempo de Gitanos, El Salvador 5575 (☎4776 6143; www.tiempodegitanos.com.ar). S Palermo. A small, intimate restaurant in Palermo Hollywood that puts on flashy flamenco shows W-Su. The price (AR$35) W-Th includes delicious tapas, but F-Su, expect a more traditional, and filling, Argentine menú. Reserve ahead.

Thelonious, Salguero 1884 (☎4829 1562; www.theloniousclub.com.ar). S Bulnes or Scalabrini Ortiz. This small, New York-style jazz club is well loved for its intimate and relaxed atmosphere. Hosts some of the country’s best jazz musicians, as well as international acts, for jam sessions, swing, and hard bop. Check the website for the current schedule. Beer AR$8-11. Mixed drinks AR$11-19. Pizzetas AR$14-16. Desserts AR$13. Cover free-AR$20. Open W-Su, usually starting at 9:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
La Peña del Colorado, Güemes 3657 (☎4822 1038; www.delcolorado.com.ar). S Bulnes. Even some members of the younger set flock to this rustic, restaurant-style venue, where a new Argentine folk act (usually guitar trios and quartets) plays every night Tu-Su. Grab a seat, chow down on some inexpensive parrilla fare (AR$14-25), and enjoy the music, which has a good chance of becoming participatory—you may want to bring a guitar if you have one. Shows AR$12-25.
Virasoro, Guatemala 4328 (☎4831 8918; www.virasorobar.com.ar), between Scalabrini Ortiz and Araóz. S Scalabrini Ortiz. A tiny jazz club that hosts some of the most intimate acts around. The house serves food, but stick with its simpler options. Salads AR$18-22. Burgers AR$12-28. Wine AR$22-26. Minimum consumption AR$10. Cover varies depending on the act, usually AR$10-20. W-Su nights starting at 9:30pm.

La Virutá, Armenia 1366 (☎4774 6357; www.lavirutatango.com.ar). S Scalabrini Ortiz. In the Armenian Cultural Center. One of the city’s biggest and most popular venues, offering lessons, milongas, and shows. Tango lessons W-Su AR$13-25. Rock lessons Sa-Su. Salsa lessons Tu and Th-F. Popular milongas (AR$7-10) W-Th and Su midnight-3:30am, F-Sa midnight-6am. As if that weren’t enough, on Th and F, the dancing stops briefly for performances, when tables are set up for a late dinner. Entrees AR$23-45.
Salón Canning, Scalabrini Ortiz 1331 (☎4832 6753). S Scalabrini Ortiz. This venue has various shows, classes, and milongas. Bilingual lessons F-Sa 8pm (AR$10). A milonga (AR$5) begins afterwards and ends at 4am on F and 3am on Sa. If you’re feeling rusty and need more practice, there’s also a milonga W 4-11pm.