Buenos Aires Sports

Whether you’re a diehard fan or a relative novice, no trip to BA is complete without attending a fútbol game. Many hostels lead somewhat expensive soccer tours that include tickets and transportation to and from the stadium. Tickets are typically in the platea section, where you have seats, as opposed to the standing-room-only area. For Boca Juniors and River Plate games, you can also contact Ticketek (☎5237 7200; www.ticketek.com).

Boca Juniors, Estadio Alberto J. Armando Bransden 805 (www.bocajuniors.com.ar). Based in the working class south of the city, the Boca Juniors are one of Argentina’s top teams, having won a record 17 international titles. Their 1940 stadium, known as La Bombonera (chocolate box), is wreathed in the yellow and blue colors of the home team and seats 60,000 fans. To buy tickets on match day, head for the box office on Wenceslao Villafañe or the Casa Amarilla. Beware of people trying to sell you fake tickets—just because they’re wearing a Boca jersey doesn’t mean they’re an official. Ushers will scan the tickets just before you enter the stadium to make sure they are the real deal. Tickets in the standing-room-only popular section, which exposes you to fans lighting blue flares, start at a dirt cheap AR$24.
River Plate, Estadio Monumental Núñez (www.cariverplate.com.ar). Boca’s greatest rival, the red and white squad of River Plate, plays in the 67,000-seat El Monumental in the wealthier northern area of the city. The ticket windows are on Av. Figueroa Alcorta, close to the intersection with Almte. Solier. Popular seats AR$27 (yes, more expensive than Boca, but River is the higher class team, after all).

After Boca and River, the rest of the teams in the city can be lumped together into an “everyone else” category. Independiente, based in Avellaneda, just due southeast of Boca, historically finishes third behind Boca and River. (www.caindependiente.com.) The same applies for Independiente’s chief rival, Racing, which is also based in Avellaneda. (www.racingclub.com.) In addition to these two clubs, the city’s top soccer league boasts three other teams— Huracán (www.clubahuracan.com.ar), their Boedo rivals San Lorenzo (www.sanlorenzo.com.ar), and the Argentinos Juniors (www.argentinosjuniors.com.ar), former team of the beloved, and somewhat controversial, Diego Maradona.

Polo

Strangely enough, Argentina dominates in polo. The majority of the top 50 players in the world are from Argentina, and since 1949, the country has held the first place position in the world polo rankings. As if that weren’t impressive enough, in addition to players, its “petiseros” polo horses have a reputation for being some of the most well-bred. Just across from the Hipodrómo Argentino is BA’s polo field, the only one in the world located in a metropolitan center. The season runs September to December, and the most important event, the Campeonato Argentino Abierto, takes place every November. (Av. del Libertador 4300 and Dorrego. ☎4777 6444; www.aapolo.com. Tickets can be bought the day of the match or via Ticketek; ☎5237 7200.)

Horse Racing

Hipodrómo Argentino, Avenida del Libertador 4101, Palermo (☎4778 2800; www.palermo.com.ar). S Ministro Carranza or Palermo. Buses 10, 34, 64, 130, 160 and 166. Founded in 1876, the Hipodrómo Argentino, a track that plays host to 120 horse races per year, provides a distinctly pastoral scene in the heart of bustling Buenos Aires. For the best seats, head away from the Dorrega entrance and up into the stands. For a look at the horses themselves, pay a visit to the stables, which are located near the Dorrega entrance. Races usually take place in the early afternoon or evening. The horses are hardly the hippodrome’s primary draw, though—slot machines, housed incongruously in buildings dating from 1908, are open 24hr. per day, 365 days per year, drawing around 20,000 people per day. The hippodrome also has a cafe, albeit an overpriced one. Races M, F, Su 2:30-10:30pm. AR$3.

Color Coded. Informed Travelers To Buenos Aires, Even Those Not Formerly Obsessed With Soccer, Should Know The Basics Of The Game And The Nuanced Local Rivalries. If You’Re Overwhelmed By The Multitude Of Teams, Just Learn Them By Color: Boca Juniors Are Blue And Yellow, River Plate Are Red And White, San Lorenzo Are Blue And Red, Independiente Are Red..And The List Goes On. Forever And Ever. At Least It’S A Start.

Rugby

As with soccer, Brits brought rugby to Argentina in the late 19th century and the Argentines promptly adopted and embraced the sport. The national team, Los Pumas (named for the jaguar on their crest), finished third in the 2007 Rugby World Cup. Though the country ranks in the top tier, it has been tussling with the International Rugby Board to admit it into an international league with more regular competitions, as it does not face off regularly against neighboring nations. The two most prestigious local teams, Club Atlético de San Isidro and the San Isidro Club, compete just outside the city in San Isidro .