Buenos Aires San Telmo

San Telmo is the place to go in BA for antiques. From Av. Independencía to Av. San Juan, Defensa is lined almost solely by flashy stores, hawking urns, statuary, and furniture. Most are well out of the price range of budget travelers, but it can still be entertaining to drop by and ogle a few of them. Alternatively, the Feria de San Telmo is the perfect opportunity to find cheaper, and usually more random, goods, along with vintage jewelry and clothes, used books, art, and souvenirs. If antiquities aren’t your thing, San Telmo does have a few excellent boutiques and vintage clothing stores to tempt a younger crowd.

Gil Antigüedades, Humberto Primo 412 (☎4361 5019). S Independencia. This large store, right on Plaza Dorrego, is crammed chock full of 19th-century collectibles and antiques. Among other things, the Victorian vintage clothing and jewelry are particularly drool-worthy. Open Tu-Su 11am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.
HB Antiquedades, Defensa 1016 (☎4361 3325). S Independencia. Few mortals can afford what’s on display in this massive antiques store. Still, it can be the ultimate “window-shopping” experience. Gaze at the stunning inlaid tables, Italian marble statues, and massive crystal chandeliers. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Su 11am-5pm. Cash only.

Bookstores

Walrus, Estados Unidos 617 (☎4300 7135). Identifiable by the quaint lamppost outside, this San Telmo neighborhood staple is devoted exclusively to used English-language books. Open T-Su 10am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Clothes And Accessories

El Buen Orden, Defensa 894 (☎5936 2820). S Belgrano or Independencia. It’s amazing how much desirable, affordable stuff is packed into this tiny store. Crammed into every corner, there’s funky vintage jewelry, including a great selection of earrings (most AR$25-50) and chains, as well as vintage sunglasses, shoes, clothes, and bags (AR$40-150). Open daily 11am-7pm. Cash only.
Un Lugar en el Mundo, Defensa 891 (☎4362 3836). S Belgrano or Independencia. Right in the heart of antique territory, this sleek boutique showcases the clothes and accessories of several new, up-and-coming Argentine designers. It’s affordable, but not cheap; the simplest T-shirt is AR$70, and most items are AR$120-250. MC/V.

Housewares

L’ago, Defensa 919 and 970 (☎4362 3641). S Belgrano or Independencia. An ultra-modern housewares store in the middle of the antiques district. The Pac-Man ghost pillows, Petit Prince mate gourds, Roy Lichtenstein prints, and funky lamps are perfect for the BA apartment. Even a flower lamp will set you back AR$200, though. Ignoring prices, the place is still worth checking out. Open daily 10am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.