Buenos Aires Retiro And Recoleta

If Palermo is the center for relatively expensive, yet independent stores, Retiro and Recoleta have a slew of even more upscale options and are peppered with pricey shops and boutiques. Avenida Alvear , which stretches into Recoleta from the border with Retiro, is the city’s ritziest street for shopping and is the place to go for designers like Hermes, Cartier, and Louis Vuitton. To the south, Avenida Sante Fe hosts more affordable chains, as well as smaller galerías that sell cheaper clothing. One of the best of these is the relatively large Bond Street Galería , where shops sell used clothes as well as edgier styles for the punk within, including a variety of great sneakers, jackets, and T-shirts. Though many of the shops within the neighborhood are out of the price range of the average backpacker, we’ve included a few of our favorite exceptions.

Ateneo Grand Splendid, Av. Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta (☎4811 6104), between Callao and Riobamba. Even if you hate to read (unlikely, since you’re reading this book), this store is worth a visit. Located inside a restored 1919 theater, the box seats have been converted into reading areas and the stage is now a cafe ( menú del día AR$28-30). English-language section. Open M-Th 9am-10pm, F-Sa 9am-midnight, Su noon-10pm. Additional, less beautiful locations sprinkled throughout the city. AmEx/MC/V.
Kel Ediciones, M.T. Alvear 1369, Retiro (☎4814 3788; www.kelediciones.com). This small, one-room English shop is packed with a variety of titles. Their selection of English-language titles is nearly unbeatable in BA. Additional location in Belgrano, Conde 1990 (☎4555 4005) and Caballito. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9:30am-9:30pm. Cash only.

Clothing And Accessories

Galería 5ta Avenida, Av. Santa Fe 1270, Retiro (☎4816 0451; www.galeria5taavenida.com.ar). S San Martín. Packed with vintage stores, cheap shops, and even the odd tattoo parlor, this is a haven of unique, oh-so-inexpensive finds—in particular, great jackets—in otherwise pricey Retiro. Open M-Sa 10am-9pm.
Gabriell Capricci, Av. Alvear 1477, Retiro (☎4815 3636). S San Martín. On a street dominated by high-end designers, this small shop is unique. The clothes and great jewelry are all bright, flashy, and retro. And considering the location, the prices are quite reasonable—think AR$80-200 for a purse. Open M-Sa 10:30am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Tinta China, Talcahuano 1291, Retiro (☎4813 7275; www.tinta-china.com.ar). S Callao. This boutique sells great, simple, yet trendy clothes at affordable prices. Shirts AR$50. Jackets AR$150. Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa 11am-2pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Los Vados del Isen, Guido 1699, Recoleta (☎4802 8969). S Pueyrredón. As colorful as its pink exterior, this small shop sells fun and bright jewelry from bangles to chunky necklaces at reasonable prices. Open M-F 10am-8pm, Sa 10am-4pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Shopping Centers

Patio Bullrich, Av. Libertador 750, Retiro (☎4814 7400; www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar). S San Martín. This exclusive, slightly snobby mall hosts designer boutiques as well as major international chains, including Zara, Diesel, and Christian Lacroix. For those who need a break from unaffordable clothing, there’s a cinema on the top floor that usually features three or more American films. Tickets AR$14-18. Open daily 10am-9pm.
Bond Street Galería, Sante Fe 1670, Recoleta (www.xbondstreet.com.ar). S Callao. If you’re feeling the need for some tattoos and piercings, this “alternative” mall, strangely placed in upscale Recoleta, is the place for you. Even for those not particularly into body art, the galería has enough funky clothes and accessories to spice up any wardrobe. You’ll never see goths, skaters, and hipsters hanging out together anywhere else, either, so it has a nice unity theme, too. Open M-Sa 11am-8pm.
Buenos Aires Design, Pueyrredón 2501, Recoleta (☎5777 6000; www.designrecoleta.com.ar). S Agüero. A home decoration emporium, this large mall sells home furnishings, fixtures, rugs, and that designer ashtray you’ve been dying to get. Perfect for the study- and work-abroad-er in a new apartment. Open M-Sa 10am-9pm, Su noon-9pm.

Sports And Outdoors

Camping Center, Esmeralda 945, Retiro (☎4314 0305). S San Martín. If you’re missing some of your favorite brands from home, including Gore-Tex and Columbia, come to this small store, which stocks a variety of high-quality camping, hiking, and climbing gear. Open M-F 10am-6:30pm, Sa 10am-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.