Buenos Aires San Telmo

San Telmo is no mecca for clubbing, save for Moliere, but what it lacks in dance floors and DJs it makes up for with an excellent array of relaxing bars around the Plaza Dorrego perfect for drinks and conversation.

El Balcón, Humberto Primo 461, 2nd fl. (☎4362 2354; www.elbalcondelaplaza.com.ar). S Independencia. This hip venue hosts many events, including tango shows on F and Sa nights at 10pm and Su afternoons 1-7pm. After the shows are over, a young crowd takes over and stays until long after the 2-for-1 happy hour ends at 3am. Get here early on weekends for a seat on the balcony, which has views over Plaza Dorrego, or on the rooftop terrace. Drinks AR$10-25. Reggae Nights W 11pm and Th 12:30am. Open M-Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 10pm-6pm, Su 1-7pm. Cash only.
La Puerta Roja, Chacabuco 733 (☎4362 5649; www.lapuertaroja.com.ar). S Independencia. Though it’s unmarked, go right on up to the door and head up the stairs. A refreshingly un-self-conscious local crowd hangs out at the bar, or huddles around the pool table in back. There’s a smoking room in front covered, strangely enough, by Animal House quotes. Good selection of beer AR$7-10. Mixed drinks AR$7-30. Snacks AR$10-18. Pizzas AR$15. Happy hour daily 6-10pm, 2-for-1 on certain drinks. Open M-Th and Su 6pm-6am, F-Sa 6pm-7am. Kitchen open daily 6pm-2am. Cash only.
Granados Bar, Chile 378 (☎4300 0999). S Independencia. This small bar, with its nifty all-white decor and neon lights, is the first of a two-block long line of bars, all of which are exceptionally popular on weekends. On summer nights, Granados and all its neighbors set up tables outside on the sidewalk along this section of Chile—you’ll probably have to walk around a bit to find an open table. Open M-Sa until late. Cash only.
Bar Británico, Brasil 399 (☎4361 2107). S San Juan. Though this long-running bar, just across from Parque Lezama, was once condemned to become an Internet cafe, it was so popular that locals rallied to save it. Even after renovation, it retains a bohemian quality that prevailed when Ernesto Sábato penned On Heroes and Tombs here. Food AR$7-19. Beer AR$6.50-11. Mixed drinks AR$12-18. Open 24hr. Cash only.
Gibraltar, Perú 895 (☎4362 5310). S Independencia. A small, intimate pub that draws a mixed crowd with a good selection of beer and traditional, tasty pub grub. There’s a pool table in the back. A run of the mill joint, but it gets the job done. Food AR$10-28. Drinks AR$7-20. Open daily 6pm-4am. Cash only.

Clubs

Moliere, Chile 299 (☎4343 2623; www.moliere-cafe.com). S Independencia. Relatively little distinguishes this club other than the fact that it’s one of the only places to get your groove on in San Telmo. DJs mix a variety of Latin, electronica, and pop on the dance floor, which can be packed to capacity on weekends to the point where it restricts actual dancing; there’s also a Latin dance, with salsa, samba, and merengue, on a smaller floor off to the side. Cover women AR$15, men AR$30. Open Th-Sa midnight-7am.