Buenos Aires Retiro

Being a ritzy neighborhood, Retiro doesn’t have the most varied or exciting nightlife scene—there are no clubs and the bars are often frequented by a businessy crowd unwinding post-work. There are still some excellent intimate options though for a relatively quiet night out.

Dadá, San Martín 941 (☎4314 4787). S San Martín. This small, intimate bar has an alternative flair, a rarity in upscale, corporate Retiro. By day, businesspeople convene here for the highly regarded food, but at night, a crowd of tourists and porteños moves in for drinks and cool jazz. Entrees AR$19-37. Open M-Sa noon-late.
Gran Bar Danzón, Libertad 1161, 2nd fl. (☎4811 1108). S San Martín. This ultra-trendy bar draws hordes of businesspeople, as well as the fashionable and well dressed—most people are in suits or dresses, or at least mile-high heels. The menu includes pastas, seafood, sushi, and a huge selection of wine. There’s usually a DJ at 11pm. Entrees AR$28-50. Open M-F 7pm-late, Sa 8:30pm-late, Su 8pm-late. AmEx/MC/V.
Kilkenny, M.T. de Alvear 399 (☎4312 9179). S San Martín. Kilkenny, a massive two-floor Irish pub, is a local institution with all the trappings of a traditional pub. On weeknights, the party gets started early on, and on weekends, those seeking a quiet drink will likely want to head elsewhere. Come early, or for lunch, if you want a seat. The second floor has a smoking section. Open daily 11am-2am. Cash only.
Druid Inn, Reconquista 1040 (☎4312 3688). S San Martín. Smaller and quieter than other San Telmo offerings, this intimate Irish pub boasts an incredible selection of alcohol, including over twenty kinds of beer and one hundred types of whiskey. Try them all. There’s also the usual roster of pub grub. Live music, including jazz, rock, and Celtic, Th-Sa. Open M-F noon-late, Sa 8pm-late. Cash only.
Bárbaro, Tres Sargentos 415 (☎4311 6856). S San Martín. On a quiet, cobblestone pedestrian street, this bar draws a varied, somewhat older crowd for relaxation, conversation, and a few drinks. With its non-stodgy carved wood interior, painted columns, and modern art, it feels a bit like a funky, well-worn pub. Open daily noon-late. Cash only.
Deep Blue, Reconquista 920 (☎0800 444 2582; www.deepblue.com.ar). S San Martín. A mixed crowd of tourists, young locals, and businesspeople frequent this strangely decorated bar. The drinks range in price from the affordable AR$11 to the insane AR$1000, though most mixed drinks are AR$19-25. There are a few pool tables in the center. Beer AR$11-15. Open M-Sa noon-2 or 3am. AmEx/MC/V.
Zanzibar, San Martín 986 (☎4312 9636). S San Martín. Between Marcelo T. de Alvear and Paraguay. A description of the plush red stools and the shiny metal bar would fail to capture Zanzibar’s laid-back attitude. It’s far better to focus on the faded map of Africa and its menu, a tribute to rum “from all over the world” (it’s actually just Caribbean, but hey—we’re not complaining). Beer AR$6-12. Mixed drinks $12-20. Open Tu-Th 6pm-3:30am, F-Sa 6pm-5am. Cash only.