Buenos Aires Tigre

Settled as early as 1580, Tigre was a small port city until the beginning of the 20th century, when it became the preferred city escape for porteños, first for the elite and, nowadays, for everyone else. Named after the tigres (jaguars) that inhabited the delta until they were hunted to extinction, the small city is quite commercial and can get crowded on summer weekends. Still, it can be a great place to wander and relax on a sunny day, shopping at the market, visiting the stunning art museum, and eating and drinking along the river.

Trains: Trains on the Mitre line depart for Tigre (1hr., every 10-30min. 6am-12:30am, AR$1.10) from Buenos Aires’ Retiro station and terminate at Estación Tigre, located on Av. Ricardo Ubieto near the bridge over the Río Tigre, and return to Buenos Aires until 11:30pm. Alternatively, it is possible to transfer at Estación Mitre to the tourist Tren de la Costa (☎4002 6000; every 30min. 7am-11pm; AR$10, residents AR$6), which runs along the coast and terminates at the Estación Delta, opposite the amusement park and just blocks from Tigre’s popular market, Puerto de Frutos. Though more complicated and expensive than the local train, passengers can get on and off as often as they like, making it worthwhile for those planning to make several stops along the coast.

Orientation

Located on a small island south of the Río Lujan, Tigre is divided into two halves by the smaller Río Tigre. On the coast east of the river, Avenida Mitre connects the passenger train station with the tourist office and leads to Calle Vivanco, where the Tren de la Costa station is located and which ends at the theme park and the Puerto de Frutos market. The eastern half is connected with the western half by a bridge near the train station. Following the river around the coast from the bridge in the western half, Lavalle leads to Paseo Victorica, the best place to walk along the river, and where most of the best restaurants and two major museums are located. The area inland from Paseo Victorica is also a great place for a quiet stroll among the crumbling older and newer villas of Tigre’s inhabitants.

Practical Information

Tourist Office: Av. Mitre 305 (☎4512 4497; www.tigre.gov.ar). In the Estación Fluvial (Boat Terminal), Tigre’s helpful tourist office hands out maps and boat schedules and can suggest accommodations, boat trips on the river, and watersports operators. To get to the Boat Terminal from the passenger train station, head right across the roundabout and one block down Av. Mitre; it’s just beyond the McDonald’s. Open daily 8am-6pm.
Banks: Tigre’s banks are located along Av. Cazón, which runs southeast from the bridge between the train station and boat terminal. Most have 24hr. ATMs, including Banco de la Nación, at the intersection of Av. Cazón and Emilio Mitre. Open M-F 10am-3pm.
Pharmacy: Farmácia del Pueblo, Av. Cazón 1550 (☎4749 0092). Open 24hr.
Internet: Indistinguishable locutorios along Av. Cazón offer Internet access for AR$2-3 per hr—one is at Cazón 1483 (☎4731 1559). Open daily 10am-8pm. AR$3 per hr.
Post office: Av. Cazón 1140. Open M-F 10am-6pm, though they sometimes close randomly around lunch.

Food

It isn’t difficult to find a place to eat in Tigre. Restaurants cluster around the major sights and more upscale establishments line Paseo Victorica. For cheaper eats, try the Puerto de Frutos or any of the number of supermarkets along Avenida Cazón; try Ekí, Av. Cazón 1340. (Open daily 8am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Il Novo María Luján del Tigre, Paseo Victorica 611 (☎4731 9613). One of Tigre’s only restaurants with a patio on the river, Il Novo María is also one of the town’s most popular—and with good reason. In addition to the Argentine staples of pasta and beef, the restaurant serves a variety of excellent seafood and more creative dishes; try the Singapore (chicken with pumpkin and fruits; AR$35). Table service AR$6. Appetizers AR$7-36. Salads AR$14-65. Seafood AR$26-78. Parrilla AR$19-39. Other entrees AR$32-44. Open daily 8am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V. 4
Literatos, Av. del Libertador San Martín 440 (☎4749 8127). From the boat terminal, cross the bridge and continue straight for two blocks. If this small restaurant were on the riverbank, it would likely be packed. Luckily, it’s not, and the rustic yellow dining room lined with modern art attracts a small in-the-know crowd with a delicious, inexpensive menu of seafood, interesting milanesas, and vegetable dishes. Entrees AR$21-35. Open M-F 9am-11pm, Sa 10am-4pm and 7:30-11pm, Su noon-3:30pm. MC/V. 3
Via Toscana, Paseo Victorica 470 (☎4749 2972). This heladería, a local favorite, takes its ice cream seriously; just look for the charts on the counter expounding on the inferiority of other lowly shops. Flavors include a delicious limón and dulce de leche. Carry your sweets outside to enjoy on the leafy, shaded patio. Ice cream AR$7-12. Sundaes AR$16. Open W-Su noon-10pm. Cash only. 1

Sights

Puerto De Frutos. Though for much of the 19th century, Tigre’s harbor was a major fruit port, it’s much better known nowadays for its crafts market. Set up along three different docks, the first two host lines of shops and stands selling leather, ceramics, and cheap clothing, though the focus is definitely on wicker products. The third, however, is open to ships, and you still can see the boats being unloaded. The market is open every day, but it’s best to go on weekends, when the crowds are bigger and more shops are open. To get to the market, head down Av. Mitre from the station, veer right on Vivanco, and walk along the Tren de la Costa tracks to Sarmiento. (Open daily 10am-7pm. Free.)

Parque De La Costa. Some might think it’s a bit of an eyesore, but Tigre’s large theme park is nonetheless very popular among porteño children for its rides, ferris wheels, playgrounds, and games. There are many rides intended for an older crowd, including several roller coasters. Many of the larger rides cost AR$5-10 extra, in addition to the price of admission. (Bartolomé Mitre 2. ☎4002 6000. Open F-Su and holidays 11am-8pm. General admission AR$30; pasaporte, which includes unlimited access to several of the large rides as well, AR$40.)

Museums

Museo De Arte Tigre (Mat). Even for those not particularly interested in art, Tigre’s museum is worth visiting for the building alone. Built in 1909, the palatial, French-inspired edifice housed the Tigre Club, a major society casino, until gambling was outlawed in the 1930s. Purchased by the city in 1978 and recently refurbished, the interior is almost as ornate as the exterior, with beautiful stained glass, mirrors, chandeliers, and ceiling frescoes; don’t miss the former ballroom, featuring a soaring painted ceiling, or the chance to stroll along the ornate terrace, which has stunning river views. The museum’s actual collection rivals the best in Buenos Aires and is composed of mainly Argentine artists, including Antonio Berni, Eduardo Sívori, and Benito Quinquela Martín, and is arranged by theme as opposed to time period. The museum also hosts excellent temporary Latin American art exhibits. (Paseo Victorica 972. ☎4512 4528; www.mat.gov.ar. Captions in Spanish. Open W-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su and holidays noon-7pm. AR$5. Guided Spanish-language tours W-F 11am and 4pm, Sa-Su 1, 3, and 5pm. Free.)

Museo Naval De La Nación. Set in a soaring wooden hall, Tigre’s naval museum is packed with a bewildering number of displays on the history of the Argentine naval force, as well as navigational history in general. Exhibits range from not-so-miniature reproductions of historic ships, to statues and portraits of famous personalities, to uniforms and dishes used on famous voyages. There’s also a room of naval weapons you can mess with in back and an outdoor display of planes and parts of ships; keep an eye out for the twisted metal cabin of a ship bombed during the Falklands War. (Paseo Victorica 602. ☎4749 0608. Captions in Spanish. Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm, Sa-Su and holidays 10am-6:30pm. AR$2.)

Museo De La Reconquista. Housed in a lovely reconstructed colonial building, this museum was founded on the spot where General Liniers landed and began his march to retake Buenos Aires from the British in 1806. The collection, which includes rooms on the reconquest, the history of Tigre, the Tigre Club and Hotel, and a hall of uniforms, is a bit staid, but the pieces are definitely of high-quality and would be worth a visit for those interested in Argentine history. (Liniers 818. ☎4512 4496. Some English captions. Open W-Su 10am-6pm. Free.)

Outdoor Activities

Boat Trips. There are numerous ways to see the Paraná Delta from Tigre, and the town’s excellent tourist office is very helpful in navigating the tour options. A slew of relatively indistinguishable companies offer quick, round-trip tours through a small part of the Delta near Tigre; though they don’t go too far, they do offer a quick glimpse of the Delta and the river lifestyle. Most trips (AR$10-20) last one hour and are on either a larger catamaran or smaller launch, the latter of which are usually open and have fewer people and better views. The companies’ small ticket kiosks are along the river banks, Bartolomé Mitre, at the Boat Terminal, and at the beginning of Paseo Victoria.

Ferries. Longer cruises tend to be expensive. A great way to see more for less is to catch a ride on one of the regular ferries that service the smaller communities farther out on the Delta. Be sure to ask which round-trips are available, as many of the services are one-way. Trips last upwards from an hour and usually run AR$8-20. Three companies operate passenger services.

Intersleña, at the Boat Terminal, ticket offices #3-4 (☎4749 0900).
Jilgüero, at the Boat Terminal, ticket office #2 (☎4749 0900).
Lineas Delta, in front of the Boat Terminal at kiosk #6 (☎4731 1236).

Sports. Popular outdoor activities on the Delta include kayaking, rowing, and wakeboarding, and numerous operators offer lessons as well as guided trips of the Delta lasting anywhere from a few hours to a week. Most require prior reservation, so it’s a good idea to call or email in advance.

Puro Remo, Lavalle 235, Tigre (☎15 5808 2237; www.puroremo.com.ar). One of the most conveniently located companies. Offers a variety of individual rowing classes, as well as half- and full-day kayaking trips through the Delta. Contact Tu-Su 7am-7pm.
Rowing Trips (☎15 5707 6957; www.rowingtrips.com.ar). Offers lessons as well as one- and two-day rowing trips in spring and summer W-Su at 9am to the Delta islands. Tours depart from the Regatas La Marina Club, located across the river from Paseo Victorica. English-speaking guides available. Reservations required.
Kayak Tours (☎4728 2865; www.nauticalescapes.com). Runs a huge variety of kayak tours, from two hours (AR$91) to a week (AR$3036), and rents kayaks (single half-day AR$61, full-day AR$91; double AR$106/152). Prices include transport from the train station to the company’s base on the Río San Antonio. Reservations required.
Wake School Gabriela Díaz (☎4728 0031; www.wakeschool.com.ar). One of the world’s top wakeboarders runs this school teaching wakesurfing, wakeboarding, and waterskiing. Classes year-round. Equipment provided. The school is located on the Río San Antonio; to reach it, catch the Intersleña ferry to Gustanto. Contact daily 9am-7pm.