Buenos Aires San Antonio De Areco

After staying in Buenos Aires, visiting San Antonio de Areco can be a definite culture shock. Located on the pampas just 113km away from the city, this tiny town, with its low colonial buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and quiet parks, moves at a very different pace and is virtually silent on a weekday afternoon—if not on summer weekends, when there’s an influx of tourism from the city. The long-time host of the beloved Fiesta de la Tradición , San Antonio de Areco is considered the center of gaucho traditions, and most of the town’s sights, including an excellent museum, a slew of talented artisans, and several famous estancias, focus on this theme. That said, you’ll likely see more bicycles and mopeds circling town than gauchos on horseback (though there are a few of these, too), but even without them, the narrow cobblestone streets, lined with beautiful colonial buildings, are well worth a visit.

Buses: Unless you’re driving yourself, bus is the only way to get to San Antonio de Areco. Chevallier, kiosk #67 in Buenos Aires’ Retiro station (☎4000 5255), runs buses (1hr. 45min.; 15 daily 6am-midnight; AR$20-25) to San Antonio de Areco’s Chevallier Station, located at the corner of Avenida Smith and General Paz (☎453904); 15 daily buses return to Buenos Aires 4:45am-9:30pm. To get to the center from here, face the station and head straight down the street to its left, which is General Paz. After five blocks, turn right on Arellano, which runs right into the main square. To get to the tourist office, simply continue three more blocks down Arellano from the square; it’s across the street at the corner with Av. Zerboni.

Orientation

The lack of signs away from the center can be a bit annoying, but San Antonio’s strictly grid-pattern streets are still very easy to navigate. The small Casco Histórico, or old town, where most of San Antonio’s sights are located, centers on Plaza Arellano. Alsina and Arellano, which border the Plaza to the east and west, are the city’s main commercial streets and host most of the artisans. A few blocks from the Plaza, the Río Areco runs along the north side of town and is surrounded by a system of parks.

We Don'T Need No Stinkin' Addresses. You'll notice that for many of our listings, we only provide street intersections for the location rather than addresses. This is not an attempt to make things harder for you—we're not that cruel. Many places in San Antonio de Areco actually list their addresses this way. Thanks to the city's easily navigable grid, you shouldn't have any trouble. Addresses are overrated, anyway.

Practical Information

Tourist Office: Zerboni and Arellano (☎453165; www.sanantoniodeareco.com). In a small white building in Parque San Martín, the tourist office hands out maps as well as detailed lists of local services, accommodations, and artisans. Open daily 8am-8pm.
Banks: The town banks cluster near Plaza Arellano and along Alsina. Banco Provincia, at the intersection of Alsina and Bartolomé Mitre, has a 24hr. ATM. Open M-F 10am-6pm.
Pharmacy: Farmácia del Pueblo, at the intersection of Alsina and Bartolomé Mitre (☎452140).
Internet: Planeta Virtual, Alsina 158 (☎455555). Internet AR$2.50 per hr. Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 8am-2am.
Post office: Correo Argentino, at the intersection of Del Valle and Alvear (☎455609). Open M-F 10am-5pm.

Food

San Antonio de Areco has a reputation as a quiet, traditional Pampas town, and its many restaurants fit the bill with quiet, rustic flair. Establishments are scattered throughout the center, and Zerboni, which runs along the edge of the park, has the town’s most popular parrillas. For cheaper eats, there’s also a supermarket on the main square at the intersection of Arellano and Segunda Sombra. (Open M-Sa 8am-12:30pm and 4-8:30pm, Su 9am-12:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

La Esquina de Merti, on Plaza Arellano at the intersection of Arellano and Segunda Sombra (☎456705). Covered in old tin advertisements and signs, this brick-and-wood restaurant is a recreation of a pulpería, a type of old school general-provisions store that also serves as a bar and rural meeting point. You’ll see locals lounging at the tables even outside of mealtimes, when it’s a popular meeting spot for a drink. Serves all the Argentine standards; the tasty lunch-time asado (AR$23) is a great deal. Tortes AR$8. Sandwiches AR$3-13. Parrilla AR$10-28. Other entrees AR$13-30. Open daily noon-midnight. Lunch served noon-4pm. Dinner 8pm-midnight. Cash only. 2
La Vieja Sodería, at the intersection of General Paz and Bolívar (☎456376). Tucked along a quiet sidestreet, this comfortable and relaxing cafe, covered with old advertisements and soda bottles, is an excellent place for breakfast, or for a mid-day drink or snack. Grab a seat inside or on the patio for coffee and delicious picadas (a type of stuffed tortilla; AR$8-28), or start the night early by selecting one of the many whiskey options, which take up nearly half of the menu (AR$6-45). Here’s to whiskey in the middle of the day. Sandwiches AR$4-13. Breakfast AR$8-14. Beer AR$7-10. Mixed drinks AR$9-14. Open M-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 9am-10pm. Cash only. 2
La Costa, at the intersection of Zerboni and Belgrano (☎452481). Of the parrillas lining the park, La Costa is without a doubt the local favorite. The white adobe building stands out among the more traditional structures that surround it and has a patio overlooking the park. The menu includes homemade pasta, tortillas, and omelettes, as well as bife and milanesas. Sandwiches and salads AR$6-16. Pasta AR$15-22. Parrilla AR$8-21. Other entrees AR$13-29. Open Tu-Su noon-3:30pm and 8-11pm. MC/V. 2

Sights

Plaza Ruiz De Arellano. Though it isn’t particularly interesting in and of itself, the Casco Histórico’s main plaza is nonetheless a lovely and relaxing green space. At its center stands a statue of Juan Hipólito Vieytes, an Argentine military officer, born in San Antonio de Areco, who participated in the reconquest of the city from the British in the early 19th century. The Plaza (and, in fact, most of the town) occupies land that once belonged to José Ruiz de Arellano, who sponsored the building of the town’s first chapel in 1730.

Iglesia Parroquial San Antonio De Padua. The first version of this simple but impressive church, a basic adobe chapel built in 1730 under the auspices of José Ruiz de Arellano, was rebuilt twice to create a grander edifice. The plain colonial exterior of the current church, finished in 1870, gives way to a lovely and eerily quiet rectangular interior, worth stepping into for a look at the massive carved altarpiece crammed into one end. It looks like it could use a bit more space. (On the south side of the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano.)

Parque San Martín. To get a feeling for the wide open expanse of the plains surrounding this tiny town, head to its northern edge, where the Río Areco winds through a system of rather barren, if expansive, tree shaded parks. North of here, paved streets give way to dirt roads where you might actually see gauchos trotting on horseback, as well as some excellent views across the Pampas.

Museums

Parque Criollo And Museo Gauchesco “Ricardo Güiraldes”. North of town along a picturesque dirt road, this museum is more of a complex than a single building. It’s set in the Parque Criollo, a rambling, grassy field that is the main setting for the gaucho games of the town’s popular festival . Visitors enter the complex through the 150-year-old La Blanqueada, a pulpería (general store) located on the Camino Royale. The pulpería makes a famous appearance in Argentine author Ricardo Güiraldes’ renowned 1926 novel Don Segundo Sombra, which is still well-loved for its positive depiction of the gaucho culture and which, of course, gives its name to the museum. Beyond the general store, a path winds by a small chapel and some farm equipment to the museum building, a 1930s reproduction of an 18th-century estancia (farm) . Its collection, with gaucho costumes and gear, clearly focuses on rural culture, but also includes portraits of famous Argentine writers and General Rosas’ bed. There’s also a collection of gaucho artwork. (Camino Ricardo Güiraldes. To get to the museum, head through the parks north of town, cross the brick Puente Viejo (old bridge) and head down the dirt road in front of you; the museum will be on your left. ☎455839. Some English captions. English pamphlets available. Open M and W-Su 11am-5pm. AR$4.)

Centro Cultural Y Taller Draghi. This excellent museum and workshop, run for over forty years by the town’s most famous silversmith, who passed away in 2008, has sent its hand-made pieces to the rich and aristocratic all over the world. Upon arrival, visitors are given a short tour of the workshop explaining the process by which each piece is painstakingly made and are then left to marvel at the museum’s impressive collection, which mixes silver pieces from the 19th and 20th century with some of the workshop’s own products. Wonderfully intricate saddles, spurs, whips, stirrups, knives, and mates line the walls; don’t miss the bridles that took three years to make. (Lavalle 387. On the north side of the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano. ☎454219. Captions in English and Spanish. Open M-Sa 9am-1pm and 3:30-8pm, Su 10am-1pm. AR$5. Guided tours available.)

Museo Atellier Del Pintor Luis Gasparini. This small museum, which is actually the artist’s house, displays the works of local painter and drawer Luis Gasparini. Though the collection is limited, the charismatic and enthusiastic artist shows and explains his paintings and drawings, which focus mainly on gaucho themes and Argentine symbols. If you’re lucky, he may also give you a live demonstration. (Alvear 545. ☎02325 1540 1330. Open daily 8am-8pm. Free.)

Ranches (Estancias)

Some of the country’s most famous estancias, or ranches, surround San Antonio de Areco; staying in them, however, can be a very, very expensive proposition. It is possible—and much cheaper—to spend the day at Cinacina, located just outside of San Antonio de Areco’s Casco Histórico. This beautiful, rambling estancia offers day packages that start at 11am and include several meals, a horseback or carriage ride over their lands, dance shows, and gaucho demonstrations. To get to the estancia, head west on Lavalle from the main plaza—you’ll end up at the gates 10 minutes later. (Lavalle 9. ☎452045; www.lacinacina.com.ar. Day-package AR$95. Cash only. Advance reservations recommended.)