Buenos Aires Montevideo

Many travelers dismiss Uruguay’s capital as a smaller, less flashy, and more expensive version of Buenos Aires. While it’s true that Montevideo is less populous than BA, with 1.4 million inhabitants to Buenos Aires’ 13 million, the other comparisons couldn’t be farther from the truth. From the classic old town, Ciudad Vieja, dotted with plazas and markets grilling unholy amounts of bife, to the beautiful string of sandy beaches and trails lining the coast, Montevideo still has something to offer for the intrepid traveler—a tranquility and sense of ease unrivaled by the Argentine capital.

What’S In A Name? The origin of the Montevideo’s name remains a mystery. Some theories attribute it to mis-transcription by cartographers of Magellan’s notoriously bad handwriting. Others didn’t even know Magellan had bad writing. Still others say it actually comes from the Portuguese phrase “Monte vide eu,” which means “I see a hill”—though not the most original of names, you have to think that early explorers, after sailing across an entire ocean, might have had a sort of “screw this” mentality about city naming.

Buses: Montevideo’s main bus terminal, Tres Cruces, at the intersection of Artigas and Dr. Ferrer Serra (☎+598 2 408 8601; www.trescruces.com.uy; open 24hr.), is just due west of Parque Batlle. Buses #21, 64, 180, 187, 188, and 330 run to the center of the city. From there, take bus #14, 64, 104, or 121 to get to Punta Carretas or Pocitos. Turil (☎1990; www.turil.com.uy) runs buses from Montevideo to Colonia (UR$167; daily 5:30, 6:50, 10am, 12:30, 2:30, 4:30, 6:30, 10:30pm). COT (☎409 4949; www.cot.com.uy) also offers routes from Montevideo to Colonia (UR$167; daily 5, 7:45, 9:30, 11:30am, 1:30, 3:30, 5, 7:15, 9, 10pm). COPSA, with offices in Tres Cruces (☎902 1818; www.copsa.com.uy; open 24hr.), runs buses about every hour to the beaches of Punta del Este (2hr., UR$138).
Ferries: For ferry transportation between Buenos Aires and Montevideo,

Local Transportation

Buses: Local buses run out of the Terminal Omnibus Río Branco, Rio Branco 1409. At 11pm, buses run only hourly. Regular service starts up again at 7am. UR$13.50, paid to the man sitting opposite the driver after boarding.
Taxis: You can pick them up anywhere on the street. For immediate service, try any of the number of Radio taxi services, including Fono-Taxi (☎203 7000), Radio Taxi Cooperativo (☎311 1030), and Radio Taxi Scot (☎208 0810). At night, taxis charge an additional initial fee of UR$20-30.

Orientation

Most tourists are based in the Ciudad Vieja, the historic center. Though the area was seen as a rough neighborhood for many years, recent revitalization campaigns have proved successful, resulting in some new pedestrian streets and a series of bars and clubs. The old town is set on a peninsula jutting out into the city harbor. The city’s main square is the Plaza Independencia , based roughly on the border between the Ciudad Vieja and the city’s downtown, Centro. The bustling Avenida 18 de Julio runs east from the Plaza Independencia through Centro. North of Centro is the port and Aguada, which tourists visit for the Palacio Legislativo , the base of the country’s parliament. From the Ciudad Vieja, the coastal Rambla runs east to Pocitos and Punta Carretas.

Practical Information

Tourist Offices: Ministerio de Turismo (☎188 5111), at the intersection of Rambla 25 de Agosto and Yacaré, right next to the ferry terminal.
Bike Rental: Bicicletería Sur, 1100 Durazno (☎901 0792), rents bikes for UR$20 per hr. or UR$80 per 6hr. Must be 18+ with telephone number and ID. Open M-F 9am-1pm, 3-7pm; Sa 9am-1pm, 3-5pm.
Embassies:
- Argentina, Cuareim 1470 (☎902 8166; emb-uruguay.mrecic.gov.ar). Open M-F 10am-1pm, 3-6pm.
- Canada, Plaza Independencia 749, office 102 (☎902 2030; http://geo.international.gc.ca/latin-america/uruguay), above the Aerolineas Argentinas office. Open M-F 9-11am; extra hours for Canadians M-Th 2-4:30pm.
- United Kingdom, Marco Bruto 1073 (☎622 3630), just west of Pocitos. Open M-F Mar.-Dec. 9am-1pm, 2-5:30pm; Jan.-Feb. 8:30am-2:30pm.
- United States, Lauro Muller 1776 (☎418 7777; http://montevideo.usembassy.gov). Open M-F 8:30am-5:30pm.
Banks, ATMs, and Currency Exchange: Banks and currency exchange services can be found throughout the city offering similar rates. Though some have longer hours, others are only open 1-5pm. Most ATM cards will work with BANRED, the Uruguayan ATM network, which accesses Banelco and Visa and Mastercard networks.
Emergency: For all emergencies, dial ☎911.
Police: Carlos Quijano 1310 (☎1909). The tourist police are based at Colonia 1021 (☎0800 8226/908 3303/909102).
Pharmacy: There are many 24hr. pharmacies—your hostel should be able to direct you to the closest one. One central location is Farmacia San Antonio, Av. 18 de Julio 841 (☎900 0368). Open 24hr.
Hospital: Hospital de Clínicas, Av. Italia (☎480 1222; www.hc.edu.uy), just after A. A Navarro, is the public hospital.
Internet: Locutorios, with telephones and Internet, are plentiful in the center near Av. 18 de Julio. Just around the corner from the Plaza Independencia, Centro, Andes 1363 (☎902 4522), has computers with microphones and Skype. Internet UR$16-50 per hr. Calls to the US UR$7 per min. Open 24hr.
Post Office: Correo Central (☎916 0200) takes up an the entire block between Sarandí and Buenos Aires. Open M-F 9am-5pm. Postcards UR$17. Letters UR$55. There’s also a FedEx, Juncal 1321 (☎628 0100), on the Plaza Independencia. Open M-F 10am-1pm, 2-7pm. Postal Code: 10000-20000.

Accommodations

Montevideo’s budget accommodations are clustered in the center and the Ciudad Vieja, convenient to many sights and nightlife spots. If you’re looking for a single, it’s often surprisingly cheaper to go to a hotel than a hostel. Expect to pay in cash, either with Uruguayan pesos or American dollars.

El Viajero, Ituzaingó 1436 (☎915 6192; www.elviajerohostels.com). This tidy, mid-sized hostel in the heart of the Ciudad Vieja manages the rare combination of sociability and cleanliness and features two kitchens, a terrace for outdoor barbecues, and a common room with piano. The dorms are standard fare, but the twin doubles sport some classier furnishings, such as bookshelves. If you care about solitude, ask for a room set away from the common room, which can get noisy from time to time. 6- to 8-bed dorms UR$300; singles UR$724. Accepts both UR$ and US$. 2
Che Lagarto Hostel (HI), Plaza de la Independencia 713 (☎903 0175; www.chelagarto.com/montevideo-hostels.php). This big, sociable HI-affiliate, part of a chain of hostels around South America, has balconies that overlook the Plaza de la Independencia, giving it the best location hands-down (albeit the noisiest) in the city. Music pulses regularly from the common room with TV and pool table, and the bar does brisk business in 1L beers. The hostel also occasionally organizes barbecues. Breakfast included. Free Internet and Wi-Fi. 4-bed dorms UR$305; 6-bed dorms with ensuite bath UR$324; 8-bed dorms UR$267; doubles UR$667-762. Accepts both UR$ and US$. 2
Hotel Palacio, Bartolomé Mitre 1364 (☎916 3612; www.hotelpalacio.com.uy). For a private room, Hotel Palacio is a steal. The antique elevator is perhaps more charming than the antique feel of some of the mattresses, but the location in the Ciudad Vieja and helpful staff compensate. The slightly more expensive top rooms get more light and boast private balconies with harbor views. Singles US$22-25; doubles US$23-26, with additional bed US$27-30; balcony rooms US$28-30. MC/V. 3

Food

Pizza and parrilla reign supreme in Montevideo’s dining scene, which is more expensive (though still very affordable) and less varied than in Argentina. Proximity to the Río de la Plata may explain the appearance of more fish on the menu, but can’t account for the presence of more salads. Despite this extra greenery, vegetarians will find it as difficult as ever to satisfy their hunger.

San Rafael, Zelmar Michelini 1301 (☎900 5214), at the intersection with San José. San Rafael doesn’t look like much from the outside, but focus too much on the paper placemats and telenovelas and you’ll miss some of the best bang-for-your-buck eats in the city. Locals come here when they don’t feel like cooking—there’s nary a tourist in sight. The portions of well-flavored Uruguayan basics are plentiful, and there are also some more inventive options, such as the arroz a la cubana (UR$96). Entrees UR$55-255. Open daily 7am-2am. AmEx/MC/V: UR$250 min. 3
El Fogón, San José 1080 (☎900 0900; www.elfogon.com.uy). Past the Art Nouveau lamp at the entrance is the old-fashioned interior of this restaurant and grill, complete with penguined waiters. The selection is huge, the desserts are even bigger, and the tourist crowds are epic. Appetizers UR$73-380. Parrilla UR$160-450. Pastas UR$169-215. Fish UR$170-380. Open daily noon-4pm and 7pm-1am. AmEx/MC/V. 4
La Posada Don Tiburón, Pérez Castellano 1569 (☎915 4278). A meal of grilled meat and vegetables at the Mercado del Puerto is practically a requirement for visitors to Montevideo. There are many options, and this is merely one of them. Serves up one of the cheaper entrecotes (steaks) around at UR$220. Salads UR$90-195. Parrilla UR$140-320. Fish UR$290-320. Desserts UR$85-150. Beer UR$70. Open daily 9am-midnight; closes 5pm in July. 5pm. MC/V. 3
El Tigre, Scocería 2501 (☎710 7081). On an innocuous corner in Pocitos, this noisy steakhouse showcases some tasty dishes at excellent prices. At night, the increasingly lively restaurant attracts a younger crowd looking for drinks, a good time, and a look at the tiger tucked discreetly over the television. When you’re done, hit the road and pick from one of the many other bars nearby. Entrees UR$65-320. Wine by the carafe UR$75. Open daily noon-3:30pm and 6pm-4am. MC/V. 3

Uru Food Is Guay Delicious! Argentina is by no means the only place in the Río de la Plata neighborhood with some distinctive eats. Uruguay gets the job done with some tasty treats of their own.
Chivito: This signature Uruguayan sandwich stars a thin piece of meat completely overwhelmed by its toppings, which include fried egg, cheese, grilled peppers, lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise.
Almíbar: An orange-colored syrup similar to Jell-o in taste, but sweeter and often made out of pumpkin.
Chajá: White cake topped with cream and meringue.
Fainá: A sort of pizza crust made out of cornmeal.
Pamplona: Meat stuffed with ham, red peppers, and cheese.

Sights And Museums

Plaza Independencia And Surroundings. The heart of the Ciudad Vieja, palm-studded, 19th-century Plaza Independencia is Montevideo’s largest square and the site of political protests and impromptu tambor (drum) sessions. You may recognize the prominent, early 20th-century tower at Artigas’ one o’clock, on the southeastern corner of the square. That’s because the building, the Palacio Salvo, was designed by the same architect who planned Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires. When completed in 1928, the structure ranked as the tallest building in Latin America, and continues to hold its place as the most photographed building in the city, despite the ugly antenna at the top. (At the intersection of Av. 18 de Julio and Plaza Independencia.) From the western end of the Plaza, Sarandí, a pedestrian street, leads through market stalls and the smaller, 18th-century Plaza Constitución, home to two of the oldest buildings in the city, the 1790 Catedral Metropolitana and the 1804 Cabildo, the government headquarters during the Viceroyalty of the River Plate.

Palacio Legislativo. Uruguay’s magnificent parliament building, designed by Vittorio Meano, the mastermind behind BA's Congreso , was completed in 1925, just in time for the 100th anniversary of the country’s declaration of independence from Brazil. The General Assembly of Uruguay has 30 senators and 99 diputados, some of whom you can glimpse roaming the corridors. Try and snag the autograph of your favorite Uruguayan representative. Excellent Spanish-language guided visits give an account of the building’s history, as well as explanations of how the government operates. (From Plaza Fabini, head north along Av. del Libertador—the walk takes 30min. Alternatively, take bus #141 or 142 from the stop on Calle Buenos Aires, one block from Teatro Solis. You can’t miss the building itself, which is on Av. de las Leyes. The entrance is on Av. General Flores. ☎142 2528; www.parlamento.gub.uy. Guided 45min. visits M-F 9, 10, 11am, noon, 2:30, 3:30, 4pm. Free.)

Blast From The Past. In 2004, Parliament designated August 24th the Noche de la Nostalgia, a night when everyone wears out of fashion clothes and all discos go retro. Informally, the custom has been in practice since 1978. If you happen to be in town then, get down and get funky.

The Rambla, Playa Pocitos, And Surroundings. Montevideo’s seaside Rambla runs along nearly 14 miles of uninterrupted Río de la Plata coast, from the Ciudad Vieja to Pocitos. On weekends, the bike paths transform into a chaotic riot of dogs, soccer balls, and running suits, with the inevitable mate drinker thrown into the mix. At the far eastern end of the path in Pocitos is the city’s most centrally located beach, the beautiful Playa Pocitos. (To go straight to Playa Pocitos, take bus #121, get off at Av. Brasil, and walk towards the shoreline. Bus #104 starts on Av. 18 de Julio and runs along the entire coast to Carrasco.)

Museo Torres García. Joaquín Torres García, painter, theorist, and (for a curveball here) toy manufacturer, ranks as Uruguay’s most influential artist of the 20th century. The museum displays pieces from the start to the finish of his career, and includes watercolors, some of the toys he produced to support himself financially, and the work for which he is perhaps most famous—a sketch of the world with the 4 south on top. (Sarandí 683. Just off Plaza Independencia and behind the Puerta de la Ciudadela on the right. ☎916 2663 or 915 6544; www.torresgarcia.org.uy. Captions in English. Open M-F 9:30am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-6pm. Suggested contribution UR$20-50.)

Teatro Solís. The imposing Neoclassical Teatro Solís, Montevideo’s main cultural space since the 19th century, was daring enough and had enough doubters upon completion that engineers marched the army through the edifice to prove it wouldn’t collapse. Obviously, it was still standing afterwards, though perhaps dirtied by stamping military boots. The sun on the front pediment was not the origin of the building’s name—that honor goes to 16th-century Spanish explorer Juan Díaz de Solís , who named the Río de la Plata. Guided tours walk visitors through the building’s history, take you into the sumptuous main theater, and may include impromptu performances. (At the intersection of Buenos Aires and Ciudadela, just southwest of Plaza Independencia. ☎1950 3323 or 1950 3325; www.teatrosolis.org.uy. Guided tours Tu, Th 4pm; W, F-Su 11am, noon, 4pm. Spanish-language UR$20, other language UR$40. W Spanish-language tours. Performance tickets UR$200-2000.)

Mercado Del Puerto. Designed in 1868 as the largest market in Latin America, the Mercado now operates as a mecca for tourists and locals looking for a bite to eat, but don’t expect anything more than meat and seafood. The wrought-iron structure that houses the market was built in England, and at least one apocryphal story claims that the structure was, in fact, originally destined for Chile, before a storm sunk the ship and carried it conveniently close to the Montevideo harbor. Next door, the Museo del Carnaval displays instruments and costumes from Carnaval, the country’s hugely popular 40-day celebration that starts in February. (Rambla 25 de Agosto 218, at the intersection with Maciel. ☎916 5493; www.mercadodelpuerto.com.uy. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm. Free.)

Nightlife

Nightlife clusters in the Ciudad Vieja along a series of streets that spoke off from Bartolomé Mitre, making it easy for tourists to barhop from place to place. The city’s clubs, which are usually open only for Friday and Saturday nights, are virtually indistinguishable—dancers can expect to encounter cumbia and pop more than anything else pretty much everywhere they go. There are also bars and clubs scattered in Pocitos and Punta Carretas, especially along Avenida España, but these are more difficult to get to without a car. Things get going slightly earlier than in Buenos Aires; though the streets teem with people at all hours, the lines snaking around the corners are longest at around 2am.

Ciudad Vieja Safety. Montevideo is a safe town for nightlife on the whole, but Ciudad Vieja, which used to be a poor neighborhood during the 1973-1985 dictatorship, still retains some of its past grittiness and can be dangerous at night. Exercise caution.

Bar Fun Fun, Ciudadela 1229 (☎915 8005; www.barfunfun.com), at the Mercado Central just of Plaza Independencia. Bar Fun Fun, in operation since 1895, actually manages to meet the expectations generated by its name with chill live music acts. Photographs on the wall document the bar's storied past, which most famously includes a 1933 visit by tango great Carlos Gardel . Legend has it that one sip of the Uvita, the bar’s secret recipe drink, prompted him to dedicate a song to the mysterious beverage. Uvita UR$36. W rock. Th tango and rock. F and Sa tango and candome. Cover UR$50-100. Open Tu-Sa 8pm-4am. Cash only.
W. Lounge, Rambla Wilson and Requena Garcia (☎712 1177), in the Parque Rodo. Renowned as Montevideo’s most popular dance spot, W. Lounge has adapted the one-size-fits-all mentality to club form, with different dance floors spinning music as varied as salsa and electronica. F nights attract the city’s sleek 20-somethings, while on Saturdays the teen set tries to scam its way inside. Occasional visiting DJs. Mixed drinks UR$80. Cover F UR$160, Sa UR$150. Open F midnight-10am, Sa midnight-7am.
Pony Pisador, Bartolomé Mitre 326 (☎957470; www.elponypisador.com.uy). The Pony Pisador is the Ciudad Vieja’s most popular watering hole, a noisy bar with live music and tables spilling out into the street. Inside, 20-somethings crowd around bar stools or head upstairs for table seating. Across the street, the Pony Pisador disco spins mostly Latin pop, with electronica, cumbia, and hip-hop mixed in. Beer UR$60-85. Tragos UR$85-115. Open M-Th 5pm-close, F-Su 8pm-close. AmEx/MC/V: UR$200 minimum.