Marettimo Overview

The most geographically remote of the Egadi Islands, subdued Marettimo (ma-RE-tee-mo; pop. 700) attracts fewer tourists but just as many nature-lovers as the other islands. Because there are few roads, a boat is the best way to see Marettimo’s coastal caves. They are available for rent, with a captain, from a number of agencies along the port, such as Blue Star “I Freschi” (☎333 71 53 803; www.blustarmarettimo.it) and Rosa dei Venti (☎0923 92 32 49; www.isoladimarettimo.it). A guided excursion to the caves should cost between €10-15 with a lunchtime snack included, so be sure to barter if the initial asking price seems high. Beyond the village, only an outstanding set of hiking trails intrude upon the island’s rugged environment. The 1½hr. hike to Pizzo Falcone (686m), the highest point on the Egadi Islands, starts at the sea road, past the Siremar office. It begins with a paved stone road, after which wooden signs and a clear trail lead the way. Those adventurous enough to make the climb are rewarded with a 365-degree postcard panorama of Marettimo’s coast and both of the other islands. The second half of the hike is especially hot and rocky, so bring water and wear sturdy shoes. The Ancient Roman Case Romane, stand 25min. up the mountain, between cliffs and greenery at the end of the paved path that leads to Pizzo Falcone. To the right of the little village and past a beach at Punta Troia, a Spanish castle rests precariously on a cliff. According to legend, when a prince married one of two sisters, the rejected one threw her sister off the cliff. The heartbroken prince tossed the offending sister down the same route and then followed himself. Locals say that at sunset, the ghosts of the two lovers find each other again at the castle. The curvy hike to the castle takes about 2½hr., but the visit can easily be made by boat.

Though not many budget accommodations exist this far out to sea, if you reserve in advance, you might find a reasonably priced room in one of the following spots. La Rosa dei Venti , V. Punta S. Simone 4, to the right from the port when facing the island, rents doubles and apartments with TV, bath, fan, and rooftop terrace. Some come with a dazzling sea view. (☎0923 92 32 52. Doubles €20-30 per person; apartments €40-50 per person. Cash only.) To the right of the dock and up the hill lies B&B La Terrazza , Contrada Palosa, serves grilled fish and pizza on a large patio that overlooks town. From the Old Port, walk up V. Pepe and continue until Contrada Palosa. Try pizza (€4.50-6.50) made with locally grown herbs and top it off with homemade cannoli siciliani (€2.50). (☎0923 92 31 32. Primi €6-15. Secondi €7.50-15.50. Contorni €1-9. Open daily June-Sept. 7:30pm-3am. AmEx/MC/V.) Buy basics at Alimentare Anastasi Clemente, V. Mazzini 13. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-1:30pm and 4:30-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

A few piazze connect the town’s maze-like streets. A left turn from the ferry port will lead you up to one of these town centers. From this piazza, V. Municipio becomes V. Umberto I, which leads all the way to the Old Port. The Siremar office will be on the right and the Ustica office is 20m farther down on the left, inside a souvenir shop. There is a 24hr. ATM on V. Umberto I. A cultural center on V. Scalo Vecchio, along the fishing boat docks, has info on all three islands, as well as a local museum. (Open M-Sa 8am-noon and 3-8pm.)