Guatemala City, or Guate (GUAH-te), is the largest urban area in Central America. Smog-belching buses and countless sidewalk vendors, together with the sheer number of people, noise, and the endless expanse of concrete, make the city center uncomfortably claustrophobic. Add to this a general concern for safety and it’s easy to understand why many visitors flee Guatemala’s capital for the surrounding highlands. Still, poking around Guate for a day or two does have its rewards. Fine architecture dating back to the 1700s and several worthwhile museums make for an engaging stay. After camping in the countryside and hiking through jungles, the city’s modern conveniences and hot showers can be welcoming. While travelers may find comfort in Guate, many residents do not. Poverty is laid bare here, standing in harsh contrast to the antiseptic shopping malls and guarded, fortress-like mansions in the wealthiest neighborhoods. This disparity is particularly evident in Guatemala’s large refugee population, mainly Maya who fled civil violence in their home villages.
Guatemala City was named the country’s capital in 1775 after an earthquake in Antigua left the government scrambling for a safer center, though powerful tremors shook the new capital in 1917, 1918, and 1976. Despite the whims of Mother Nature, the city and its three million inhabitants persevere, expanding ceaselessly into the surrounding valleys.
International Flights: La Aurora International Airport (☎ 2334 7680), 7km south of Zona 1 in Zona 13. Services the following airlines: American (☎ 2337 1177; www.aa.com); Continental (☎ 2331 2051 ...more
Upon Arrival Both international and domestic flights arrive at La Aurora International Airport , in Zona 13. The posh hotels of Zona 10 are close, but the budget spots in Zona 1 require a bit more of a ...more
Buses: Guate’s city bus system is extensive and relatively efficient, but it takes a while to get the hang of it. The nicer and slightly more expensive buses, preferenciales, are large and red. Second-class ...more
Tourist Office INGUAT 7a Av. 1-17, Zona 4 (☎ 2421 2800). The INGUAT headquarters are located in this building, right in the center of Guatemala City. Staff is helpful and bilingual. City maps ...more
Almost all of Guate’s budget hotels are located in Zona 1, the city’s aging downtown area. Because robberies do occur here, prioritize safety when choosing a hotel: windows should be barred, balconies ...more
In Zona 1, sidewalk vendors offer the cheapest grub, though travelers have been known to experience stomach illness from these quick fixes. Local comedores are inexpensive, offering daily típico menus ...more
Plaza Mayor Surrounded by some of the finest architecture in the city, the Plaza Mayor has been stripped to its basic elements: a slab of concrete and a large fountain. Formerly known as “the center ...more
Although the city’s frenetic pace tends to die down after dark, there are several options for evening entertainment. The capital is a good place to catch an American flick. Two convenient Zona 1 theaters ...more
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