The Negev Overview

“Wisdom goes with south. It is written: Whoever seeks wisdom, south he shall go.” —David Ben-Gurion

The Bible says that Abraham began his spiritual journey by leaving his home and heading south to the Negev (Genesis 21:32-33). The imposing mountains, majestic canyons, and barren flatlands of the region are just as awe-inspiring today as they were in biblical times. Long considered a wasteland of Bedouin tents and dusty archaeologists, the Negev is entering mainstream Israeli life as new building projects absorb waves of immigrants and high-tech agriculture fulfills the biblical prophecy of making the desert bloom. Visionaries like David Ben-Gurion cherished the Negev’s rugged beauty and dreamed of developing the region into one of the most prosperous parts of Israel. Today, hikers, meditators, and adventurous travelers are discovering this beauty, while drip-irrigated citrus groves, flower farms, and instant boom towns are coaxing its resources into fruition. The ruins of Nabatean grandeur glowing on the hilltops along the ancient spice route are today seen less as relics than as inspiration.

The Negev covers roughly half of Israel’s territory, but for many years the region received only a small fraction of Israel’s tourists. In recent years, tourism has skyrocketed, but these 12,000 sq. km of desert have become no more accommodating. Temperatures soar at midday—those caught without a hat and water will see vultures circling overhead in a matter of minutes. Desert outfitters recommend that hikers drink one liter of water for every hour in the sun.

It’s possible to tour the desert on Egged seats: air-conditioned bus lines run through all major towns and past important sites. However, buses may be infrequent and late, and some sites and trailheads are only accessible by car. Renting a car or taking a guided tour are excellent options for those who can afford it. However, a more exciting way to see the Negev is on a camel or jeep tour.

• Intercity Transportation

Be’er Sheva is a major transportation hub: it’s easy to travel directly to almost any destination in Israel from the central station. Note that buses and trains stop running at around 3-4pm ...more

• Orientation

The city’s central bus station is on Eilat Street, situated between the two major neighborhoods: the somewhat unattractive old city to the southwest and the student areas of Ben-Gurion University ...more

• Local Transportation

Buses: Bus 13 runs from the central bus station to Beit Yatzhiv every 20min. Buses 7 and 8 run along Ben-Gurion St. toward the university and hospital. Taxis: Taxi Gan Zvi (☎ 08 641 4142). ...more

• Practical Information

Tourist Office: (☎ 08 623 4613), in the visitor’s center at Abraham’s well. Sells maps of the city (NIS5). Open Su-Th 8am-4pm. Bank: Bank Leumi (☎ 03 514 94 00), next to the post office. ...more

• Accommodations

The accommodations in Be’er Sheva are dismal, a reflection of the city’s dearth of tourists: almost everyone takes the first bus out once they arrive. Luckily, the university provides a potential ...more

• Food

Be’er Sheva has a wealth of cheap food options. The best values are found near the university, where well-traveled students put their knowledge of ethnic cuisines to work. Closer to Old Town, competition ...more

• Sights

A good way to begin your visit is to take a self-guided walking tour of the 3000-year-old city, which houses some of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture in Israel. Start at the tourist office ...more

• Entertainment And Nightlife

Entertainment, like the rest of the city, is split along a student and non-student divide. Student bars host a social Hebrew and English-speaking crowd; head to whichever bar is hosting happy hour on ...more

• Daytrips

Buses run to Dimona from Eilat (393 and 394, 3hr., every 2-4hr. 5am-1am, NIS55) and Be’er Sheva (56, 48, 49; 30min., every 30min. 6:30am-7:30pm, NIS10.60). Since immigrating in 1969, the Hebrew ...more