With traditional, indigenous tribes, pristine beaches, and an abundance of coconuts, fish, and hammocks, the San Blas Archipelago (pop. 32,000) may be the closest anyone can come to true paradise. Formally known as the Comarca Kuna Yala (“Land of the Kuna”), the Caribbean archipelago stretches between Colón and Colombia, and is one of two autonomous political regions in Panama. The Islands are owned and operated entirely by the region’s indigenous inhabitants, the Kuna. Although they use the mainland for corn, mangos, Yucca, and other agricultural products, almost all the Kuna are concentrated on the islands. The near-absence of mosquitoes and wild animals makes for a healthy and safe environment. Although you’ll have to shell out a little extra cash to stay here, it’s well worth it. Come get a tan and learn more about the culture of one of Central America’s most independent indigenous peoples while you’re at it.
By the 1500s, the Kuna had migrated into Daríen from Colombia. By the 19th century, war with the Spanish and the rival Emberá tribe had forced the Kuna onto the San Blas Islands. Here, the Spanish left them in comparative peace. In the early 20th century, however, a newly independent Panama launched attempts to “civilize” the Kuna. Fed up with mistreatment, on February 25th, 1925, the Kuna revolted against the Panamanian police force in the Nele Kantule Revolution (named in honor of their leader) and, with the help of a US battleship offshore, successfully gained autonomy. In 1938, Kuna land was further secured by the organization of the comarca, or district; in 1952 San Blas was officially recognized by the Panamanian government as a self-governing entity.
The Kuna are not subject to Panamanian taxation, they own the entire region, and they send two representatives to the National Assembly. Even so, the older generation is fighting once again (this time without violence) to preserve traditions in the face of growing Westernization. In many Kuna town congress halls, banners proclaim, “People who lose their tradition lose their souls.” Still, modernization continues to infiltrate the islands. While the Kuna once survived by trading coconuts with Colombian ships, today the balboa (US dollar) reigns supreme, with tourists as the new trading partners. As a result, the number of amenities and establishments on the Archipelago is constantly on the rise. Although it appears that each generation is becoming more Westernized, most of the Kuna lead simple, traditional lives.
The comarca is governed by three Cacinques, who are the equivalent of provincial governors and act as elected intermediaries between the Kuna and the Panamanian government. Every village has its own smaller Congress, the “Casa de Congreso,” which is headed by the Sáhila. The community celebrates religious ceremonies, resolves disputes, and makes important decisions in the Casa de Congreso.
The Kuna have their own language, but many speak at least some Spanish. Men typically wear Western clothes, while women wear distinctive clothing styles with golden earrings, nose piercings, bright colored bracelets, and skirts with blouses featuring the famous mola. The mola is a piece of colorful cloth stitched by hand. Although traditional molas have only abstract designs, modern ones are often decorated with animals and scenes from daily life. One of the most sophisticated and sought-after handicrafts in Latin America, the mola is sold to tourists everywhere in Kuna Yala (prices depend on quality, size, and age; US$5-10 per small panel).
With few exceptions, the Kuna live on the beach, only using the inland as a sort of grocery store for fresh produce and wood. Despite the presence of Christian missionaries, most of the Kuna maintain traditional piety. Kuna theology revolves around a divine human, Ibeorgum, sent to teach them how to live based on the principle of sharing within a community. More recent events, such as battles fought against the Emberá, the Spanish, and the Panamanian army, have become part of semi-mythic Kuna cosmology. Kuna Yala culture includes customary puberty rituals, marriage ceremonies, funeral rites, and traditional medicine. If you hang around long enough, you could run into a chica fuerte feast. Chica fuerte is an alcoholic drink made from sugarcane juice and maize and flavored with cacao; like the name suggests, it’s not recommended for the faint of heart. The biggest parties of the year are in February: the 25th of the month is the anniversary of the 1925 Kuna revolution.
Travelers, particularly if visiting the more isolated islands, should learn about the Kuna before coming. Those arriving on an island that has no hotel need to see the sáhila to ask permission to stay (an entrance fee of US$1-3 is typically charged, irrespective of duration). Meeting the sáhila also provides an opportunity to ask about meals or accommodation options on the island. If you want to spent the night on an uninhabited island (an amazing experience), you should arrange a trip through one of the hotel owners, who may be able to talk with the owner of the island and work out a deal. And don’t forget to arrange a pick up.
Due to its remoteness and the high price of gasoline and commodities, San Blas is not the easiest place in which to stay within a budget. Thanks to a newly improved road and growing budget accommodation options, it is becoming relatively more accessible to the student traveler. (Round-trip jeep US$50, boat transfer US$15; US$20 per night.) Lodging options are extremely limited. A stay on a densely populated island with vibrant Kuna life is just a short boat ride away from the mainland. Staying on an uninhabited, fairly remote island filled with nothing but coconuts, hammocks, and a few Kuna huts for you to rent, is more expensive to access. Most accommodations include three meals and many include tours of nearby islands. At higher prices, you are mostly paying for a little more comfort: Western-style toilets, a shower, and better, larger quantities of food. Although almost everywhere has a solar panel for electricity, only the higher-end places have lights inside the rooms.
There isn’t much value in doing a highlights tour of the islands; the attractions on each are fairly similar, and picking one or two nearby will give you a good sense of what Kuna Yala is all about. Guided tours of the archipelago are best booked in Panama City, but are only worth the expense if you’re looking for a specific bonus, such as sailing or fishing. All visitors should keep in mind that most Kuna islands require visitors to pay a US$1-3 fee; this may be paid at governmental offices or with the local Sáhila. Even uninhabited islands are privately owned, and often require a fee. There’s also a rule in most towns prohibiting walking around with only bathing suits on. In addition, photographers will normally be charged US$1, sometimes per shot.
Flights to the San Blas Islands are easy, short, and fairly cheap, though prices depend on the price of fuel. Beware, destinations vary almost daily. At the time of publication, Aeroperlas and Air Panama were the only two airlines flying to San Blas. Flights go to Cartí or Porvenir (usually alternating depending on the conditions of the runway), Corazón de Jesus and Playon Chico, and Puerto Obaldía near the Colombian border. For more information, see Panama City: Transportation. Since planes make multiple stops in the islands, they are occasionally available for island hopping, depending on demand. If you’re planning to island-hop by plane, check with the airline before you arrive. Note that airports are often not on the destination itself; if you know where you are staying, arranging connection transportation with your hotel is the easiest and cheapest way to get where you are going. Alternatively, every arriving plane is met with enthusiasm by boats and guides from as far as an hour away. It is usually not that difficult to get where you are going—just be very clear on the name of the island and the specific accommodation. Agree on the price before you get on the boat. Boat rides largely depend on distance, from US$1 for an island that you could swim to versus US$10-15 for an hour-long trip. For much longer trips expect to shell out some serious cash. Since there is little chance of sharing a boat, you will be expected to pay for the gas need to travel to your destination and back, whether or not you return (up to US$75).
Thanks to new improvements, the once impassible Llano-Cartí Road can now be navigated by jeep. Jeeps from Panama city cost US$25 in each direction (3hr.); they’ll pick you up at your hotel. The easiest way to book this is through your hotel or hostel; La Jungla, Mamallena, and Luna’s (see Accommodations) are all known to book jeeps.
There are two options for long-distance boat travel: one is expensive and usually safe and the other is cheap and less safe. Wealthy travelers take yachts from Panama, usually embarking near Colón at Puerto Lindo, passing through the San Blas islands and ending in Cartagena, Colombia. Similar trips can be arranged through travel agents or hostels. The best hostels have extensive information about boats. Prices usually run around US$350-450 for a five-day, all inclusive tour.
It seems as though there is a picturesque island for every day of the year in the San Blas Archipelago. Surrounded by reefs ideal for scuba-diving and snorkeling, and almost entirely isolated, these sandy gems make for perfect getaways. Keep in mind, however, that the islands farther afield are notorious stopping points for drug runners from Colombia. Arrange your visit with a hotel owner who knows which islands are safe—Arnulfo Robinson of Cabañas Robinson is one of many who would be happy to help.
The most densely populated islands tend to be the closest to larger pieces of land (the population is dependent on it for most of its food), and those farther afield are usually uninhabited—though few are more than a few kilometers from the mainland. Almost every island has two names: one Kuna and one Spanish; some even have an English name. For example, Achutupu is the same as Isla Perro which is sometimes called Dog Island. Leading to even more confusion, some of the islands have the same name—make sure you and your boat captain are talking about the same place. The western part of the archipelago has the greatest density of islands and the most accommodations. This area is the most easily accessible thanks to the road connection and the two airports on Cartí and Porvenir.
Western Islands. El Porvenir, the farthest west access point, is right next to the well-touristed Wichub Wala and Nalunega, both densely populated and rather traditional. Twenty minutes south, Cartí, is a group of four similarly dense and slightly less traditional islands. Among them, Cartí-Sugtupu offers the most services, including a clinic. East of Cartí are Río Sidra and Nusadup, also densely inhabited and just off the coast. Directly north lie the budget-friendly islands of Naranja Chico (Narasgandup) and Dupasenika. Also north is the more expensive Kuanidup. Farther north lies Isla Pelicano, with just four huts for rent. Still farther north, and a bit west, lies another group of islands. These are mostly uninhabited, though there are cabañas for rent on Isla Diablo and Achutupu (also known as Isla Perro). Note there is another Achutupu halfway to Colombia; don’t get the two confused. Between Isla Diablo and Achutupu there is an easily accessible shipwreck perfect for snorkeling. To the west Coco Blanco has a few simple accommodation options. All of these islands, plus many more uninhabited ones, make up the western comarca, and are reasonably accessible from one another (at most 1½hr.).
Other Islands. Farther northeast, the Cayos Holandéses (Holland Cayes) is a large group of completely uninhabited, picturesque islands popular with Yachties. A trip here is expensive (round-trip US$45-70). Farther east (up to 2½hr. by boat) are the fairly Westernized Corazón de Jesús and Narganá. The more traditional Isla Tigre and Tikantiki even farther east. From there, in order of increasing distance, are Playón Chico, Yandup, Isla Tupile, Achutupo, and the Port of Obaldía.
Just barely large enough to fit an airstrip, Porvenir serves as a popular jumping-off point to the western archipelago. This island is also a required stop for any boat passing on its way to or from ...more
This small, densely populated island is not a beach destination. If it’s a Kuna village you seek, this charming assembly of traditional homes will suit you fine. Join local kids playing basketball ...more
A short trip west from Wichub Wala, Nalunega is slightly more spread out, but equally populated. It is home to the well-known Hotel San Blas , the oldest hotel on the Archipelago, which offers Kuna-style ...more
Cartí is a group of four densely populated islands just off the mainland. Cartí-Sugtupu, Cartí-Tupile, and Cartí-Yantupu are the three largest ones. Of these, Cartí-Sugtupu (pop. 2000) is the largest ...more
Naranjo Chico is a beautiful island with a plethora of pristine beaches and palm trees, sparsely populated by four large Kuna families. The families rent different enclaves of cabañas, though it’s ...more
This tiny, attractive island is home to two sets of tightly packed cabañas. With cheap prices and basic services, Dupasenika is also quite popular with backpackers. To the confusion of many a traveler ...more
If all you want is beaches, palm trees, and a roof to lay under during the rain, search no farther than these tiny islands. Isla Perro is occupied by a single family (☎ 6042 0778 or 6684 9762) that ...more
Short of renting an island for a night and bringing your own hammock, this is the most secluded you can get. The gorgeous island has only four cabañas, situated along the water with hammocks hung between ...more
Nusatupo is small island packed with traditional bamboo-thatch huts. The one stand-out, three-story concrete building houses the Hotel Kuna Yala. This structure, with a rooftop terrace, has striking ...more
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