Warsaw (Warszawa) Overview

Massive rebuilding is nothing new for Warsaw (pop. 1,700,000). At the end of World War II, two-thirds of its population had been killed and 83% of the city was destroyed by the Nazis as revenge for the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. Having weathered the further blow of a half-century of communist rule, Warsaw has sprung back to life as a dynamic center of business, politics, and culture—evidenced by the gleaming new skyscrapers popping up next to crumbling concrete. With Poland’s recent accession into the European Union, the city is transforming its culture and landscape at an even faster pace. Now is the time to visit this compelling and underrated city.

Flights: Port Lotniczy Warszawa-Okęcie (“Terminal 1”), Żwirki i Wigury (info desk ☎022 650 4100, reservations ☎0 801 300 952). Take bus #175 to the city center (after 10:40pm, bus #611); buy tickets at the Ruch kiosk at the top of the escalator in the arrivals hall. (Open M-F 5:30am-10:30pm.) If you arrive past 10:30pm, buy tickets from the bus driver for a 3zł surcharge (students 1.50zł). The IT (Informacja Turystyczna) office is in the arrivals hall (see Tourist Offices, p. 775). Open M-F 8am-8pm.
Trains: Warszawa Centralna, al. Jerozolimskie 54 (☎022 94 36; www.intercity.pkp.pl), is the most convenient of Warsaw’s 3 major train stations. Most trains also stop at Warszawa Zachodnia (Western Station), Towarowa 1, and Warszawa Wschodnia (Eastern Station), Lubelska 1, in Praga. Yellow signs list departures (odjazdy); white signs list arrivals (przyjazdy). English is rarely understood; write down when and where you want to go, then ask “Który peron?” (“Which platform?”). Prices listed are for IC (intercity) trains and normale (2nd class) fares. To: Gdańsk (4hr., 20 per day, 47-90zł); Kraków (3-5hr., 30 per day, 47-89zł); Lódz (1-2hr., 13 per day, 31zł); Lublin (2-3hr., 17 per day, 35zł); Poznań (2-3hr., 20 per day, 46-89zł); Wrocław (4-6hr., 12 per day, 50-96zł); Berlin, GER (6hr., 6 per day, €29-45); Budapest, HUN (10-13hr., 1 per day, 280zł); Prague, CZR (9-12hr., 2 per day, 270-310zł).
Buses: Both Polski Express and PKS buses run out of Warsaw.
- Polski Express, al. Jana Pawła II (☎022 854 0285), in a kiosk next to Warszawa Centralna. Faster than PKS. Kiosk open daily 6:30am-10pm. To: Gdansk (6hr., 2 per day, 60zł); Kraków (8hr., 2 per day, 69zł); Lódz (2hr., 7 per day, 25zł); Lublin (3hr., 7 per day, 41zł).
- PKS Warszawa Zachodnia, al. Jerozolimskie 144 (☎022 822 4811, domestic info ☎03 00 30 01 30, from cell phones ☎720 8383; www.pks.warszawa.pl), connected by tunnels to the Warszawa Zachodnia train station. Cross to far side al. Jerozolimskie and take bus #127, 130, 508, or E5 to the center. To: Gdansk (5-7hr., 18 per day, 35-51zł); Kraków (5-7hr., 8 per day, 40zł); Lublin (3hr., 9 per day, 22-30zł); Torun (4hr., 12 per day, 32zł); Wrocław (6-8hr., 4 per day, 43zł); Kyiv, UKR (14hr., 1 per day, 155zł); Vilnius, LIT (9hr., 3 per day, 115zł).
- Centrum Podróźy AURA, Jerozolimskie 144 (☎022 659 4785; www.aura.pl), at the Zachodnia station, left of the entrance. Books international buses to: Amsterdam, NTH (23hr., 2 per day, 209-279zł); Geneva, SWI (27hr., 2 per day, 269-320zł); London, GBR (27hr., 3 per day, 280-450zł); Paris, FRA (25hr., 1-3 per day, 220-334zł); Prague, CZR (28hr.; 3 per week; 115-145zł); Rome, ITA (28hr., 1 per day, 249-418zł).
Public Transportation: (info line ☎022 94 84; www.ztm.waw.pl). Warsaw’s public transit is excellent. Daytime trams and buses 2.40zł, with ISIC 1.25zł; day pass 7.20/3.70zł; weekly pass 26/12zł. Punch the ticket in the yellow machines on board or face a 120zł fine. If you find that you’re the only one validating your ticket, remember that many locals carry 90-day passes. Bus, tram, and subway lines share the same tickets, passes, and prices. There are also 2 sightseeing bus routes: #180 (M-F) and #100 (Sa-Su). Purchase an all-day ticket and you can hop on and off the bus. Night buses cost double, have “N” prefixes, and run 11:30pm-5:30am. If you need to use one, ask at a tourist bureau or accommodation to explain the system for ordering them; without an order, they won’t stop. Warsaw’s Metro is not particularly convenient for tourists.
Taxis: The government sets cab fare at 2zł per km; with privately run cabs, stated prices may be lower but the risk of overcharging is greater. State-run: ME.RC. Taxi (☎022 677 7777), Wawa Taxi (☎96 44). Privately run: Euro Taxi (☎96 62), Halo Taxi (☎96 23).

Orientation

The most prominent section of Warsaw lies west of the Wisla River . The city’s grid layout and efficient public transportation make it very accessible. Aleje Jerozolimskie is the main east-west thoroughfare. Warszawa Centralna, the main train station, is at the intersection of al. Jerozolimskie and al. Jana Pawla II, the north-south street one block west of Marsza kowska. The northern boundary of pl. Defilad is Świętokrzyska, another east-west thoroughfare. Intersecting al. Jerozolimskie one city block east of Marsza kowska and the city center, the Trakt Królewski (Royal Way) takes different names as it runs north-south. This elegant promenade begins as Nowy Swiat in the city center and then turns into Krakowskie Przedmiescie as it leads into Stare Miasto (Old Town; just north of al. Solidarnosci overlooking the Wisla). Going south, the road becomes al. Ujazdowskie as it runs past embassy row, palaces, and Łazienki Park, all to the south the city center. Praga, the part of the city on the east bank of the Wisla, is accessible by tram via al. Jerozolimskie and al. Solidarnosci. In Praga, the two most trafficked north-south thoroughfares are Targowa, near the zoo, and Francuska, south of al. Jerozolimskie.

Practical Information

Tourist Offices: Informacji Turystyczna (IT), al. Jerozolimskie 54 (☎94 31; www.warsawtour.pl), inside Centralna train station. Provides maps and arranges accommodations (no fee). Their free booklets list popular restaurants and special events. Open daily May-Sept. 8am-8pm; Oct.-Apr. 8am-6pm. Branches: Krakowskie Przedmieście 39. Open daily, same hours. In the airport, open daily, same hours. Pl. Zamkowy 1/13 (outside the Stare Miasto). Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-6pm, Su 11am-6pm.
Budget Travel: Almatur, Kopernika 23 (☎022 826 3512). ISIC 69zł. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 10am-3pm. AmEx/MC/V. Orbis, Bracka 16 (☎022 827 7140), entrance on al. Jerozolimskie. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-6pm. MC/V.
Embassies: Most are near al. Ujazdowskie. Australia, Nowogrodzka 11 (☎022 521 3444; ambasada@australia.pl). Open M-F 9am-1pm and 2-5pm. Canada, ul. Jana Matejiki 1/5 (☎022 584 3100; wsaw@international.gc.ca). Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm. Ireland, Mysia 5 (☎022 849 6633; ambasada@irlandial.pl). Open M-F 9am-1pm. UK, al. Róz (☎022 311 0000). Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm. US, ul. Piękna 12 (☎022 625 1401 or ☎022 504 2784). Open M, W, F 9am-noon, Tu, Th 9am-3pm.
Currency Exchange: Except at tourist sights, kantory (exchange booths) have the best rates. 24hr. at Warszawa Centralna or at al. Jerozolimskie 61.
Luggage Storage (Kasa Bagażowa): At Warszawa Centralna train station. 7zł per item per day, plus 3zł per 50zł of declared value if you want insurance. To sidestep the language barrier and to retain more control over your bag, choose a locker (8zł). Open 24hr.
GLBT Resources: Lambda, (☎022 628 5222; www.lambda.org.pl), in English and Polish. Open Tu-W 6-9pm, F 4-10pm. Info at the English-language site http://warsaw.gayguide.net. The GLBT scene in Warsaw is discreet and lacks widespread political support.
24hr. Pharmacy: Apteka Grabowskiego “21” (☎022 825 6986), upstairs at the Warszawa Centralna train station. AmEx/MC/V.
Medical Services: Centrum Medyczyne LIM, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, 9th fl. (24hr. emergency line ☎022 458 7000, 24hr. ambulance ☎430 3030; www.cm-lim.com.pl), at the Marriott. There are English-speaking doctors available. Open M-F 7am-9pm, Sa 8am-4pm, Su 9am-6pm, holidays 9am-1pm. Find another branch at Domaniewski 41 (☎022 458 7000). Open M-F 7am-9pm, Sa 8am-8pm. Central Emergency Station, Hoża 56 (☎999) has a 24hr. ambulance on call.
Telephones: Directory assistance ☎022 118 913.
Post Office: Main branch, Świętokrzyska 31/33 (☎022 827 0052). Take a number at the entrance. For stamps and letters push “D”; for packages, “F.” For Poste Restante, inquire at window #42. Open 24hr. Kantor open daily 8am-10pm. Most other branches open 8am-8pm. Postal Code: 00001.

Accommodations

Although accommodation options are rapidly improving, demand still outpaces supply, so reserve ahead, especially in summer. Informacji Turystyczna (IT;) maintains a list of accommodations in the city, including private rooms, and also arranges stays in university dorms (25-30zł) July through September.

Oki Doki, pl. Dabrowskiego 3 (☎022 826 5112; www.okidoki.pl). From Marszałkowska, turn right onto ul. Rysia, the hostel will be on your right. Each room of this chic hostel was designed by a different Warsaw artist and has a unique theme. Beer (6zł) and breakfast (10zł) in the dining room/bar (open until 1am or later). Laundry 10zł. Free Internet and Wi-Fi. Bike rental 25zł per day, 6zł per hr. 24hr. reception. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 11am. Reserve ahead. May-Aug. dorms 45-60zł; singles 110zł; doubles 135zł, with baths 185zł. Sept.-Apr. prices tend to decrease by around 5zł. MC/V.
Jump Inn Hostel, Prokuratorska 2 (☎022 825 1167; www.jumpinnhostel.com) From pl. Defilad, head south on Marszałkowska for 10 minutes, take a right on Wawelska, then a right on Prokuratorska—the hostel is on your right. Located in a peaceful residential area, Jump Inn provides a home away from home with its warm, spacious rooms and extensive amenities, including free Internet, laundry, and kitchen access. Hostel guests give particular props to the free afternoon soup. Breakfast and linens included. Reception 24hr. Dorms 40-65zł, singles 100-150zł. MC/V.
Nathan’s Villa, Piękna 24/26 (☎050 935 8487; www.nathansvilla.com). From pl. Defilad, take any tram south on Marszałkowska to pl. Konstytucji. Go left on Piękna; the hostel is on the left. Nathan’s matches a fun-loving, intimate atmosphere with unparalleled facilities and services. Though guests have been known to pass out on the lawn of this relentlessly hard-partying hostel, the rooms gleam with bright colors and brand-new furniture. Breakfast included. Free laundry. Free Internet and Wi-Fi. Reception 24hr. Dorms 40-60zł; private rooms 120-140zł. MC/V.
Hostel Kanonia, ul. Jezuicka 2 (☎022 635 0676; www.kanonia.pl). Tucked into an alley right in the thick of Stare Miasto, this hostel’s romantic decor and riverfront views soften the spartan rooms. Kitchen and common area. Breakfast 20zł. Free Internet and Wi-Fi. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 10am. Dorms 40-60zł; doubles 150zł. ISIC discount.
Szkolne Schronisko Młodzieżowe nr. 2, Smolna 30 (☎022 827 8952), 2 blocks up Smolna from Nowy Swiat, on the left. From Centralna Station, take any tram east on al. Jerozolimskie and get off at Rondo Charles de Gaulle. The well-kept rooms of this sunny hostel exude respectability, and the central location can’t be beat. Large kitchen. A/C. Free lockers and linen. Reception 24hr., but front doors locked midnight-6am. Lockout 10am-4pm. Curfew midnight. Dorms 36zł; singles 65zł. Cash only.
Camping “123,” Bitwy Warszawskiej 15/17 (☎022 823 3748). From Warszawa Centralna, take bus #127, 130, 508, or 517 to Zachodnia bus station. Cross to the far side of al. Jerozolimskie and take the pedestrian path west to Bitwy Warszawskiej; turn left. The campground is on the right. This tranquil campground is close to the center. Guarded 24hr. Open May-Sept. 12zł per person, 14zł per tent, 55.-65zł for campsites with electricity (labeled “stream,” a literal translation of the Polish word for electricity). Singles 45zł; doubles 70zł; triples 100zł; quads 120zł. AmEx/MC/V.

Food

At roadside stands, the food of choice is the kebab turecki , a pita with spicy meat, cabbage, and pickles (5-10zł). The Kebab Bar, ul. Nowy Świat 31, is a stand that serves up an excellent version. MarcPol, on ul. Marszałkowska, is a conveniently located grocery store (M-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm).

Restaurants

Gospoda Pod Kogutem, Freta 48 (☎022 635 8282; www.gospodapodkogutem.pl). A rare find in touristy Stare Miasto: generous portions of delectable local food. The place to try something shamelessly traditional, like Polish-style golonka (pig’s knuckle; 21zł) or smalec, surprisingly tasty fried bits of lard. Entrees 17-45zł. Open M noon-midnight, Tu-Su 11am-midnight. MC/V.
Oberża pod Czerwonym Wieprzem, Żelazna 68 (☎022 850 3144; www.czerwonywieprz.pl). Donning a beret and a military-style mini-dress, an ironically cheerful hostess welcomes diners to this playful exploitation of Poland’s communist past. The satire continues with a menu offering separate, cheaper dishes “for the proletariat” and more expensive selections “for dignitaries and the bourgeoisie.” Entrees 11-24zł for the proletariat, 26-55zł for dignitaries and the bourgeoisie. Daily 11am-midnight. MC/V/AmEx.
Jajo, ul. Zgoda 3 (☎022 826 4493). In the heart of Warsaw’s commercial district, this Italian bistro combines an array of entrees (18-32zł) in a refreshingly sophisticated setting. The 3-course lunch menu, including a starter, entree, and a glass of wine, is a steal at just 20zł. Open M-Sa 10am-midnight, Su noon-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Pierogarnia na Bednarskiej, ul. Bednarka 28/30 (☎022 828 0392), on a side street west of ul. Krakówscie Przedmiescie. Locals get their pierogi fix at this tiny, pleasant, and tavernesque shop; you don’t even have to wait—they keep new pierogi boiling constantly. 3 pierogi 6zl. Open daily 11am-9pm. Cash only.
Bar Vega, al. Jana Pawła II 36c (☎022 652 2754), near the former Ghetto. Secluded from the bustle of al. Jana Pawła II street vendors, the colorful Bar Vega serves a full vegetarian Indian meal for about the price of a coffee on Nowy Świat (small or big plate; 8 or 12zł, respectively). Bar Vega also funds a nonprofit to feed Warsaw’s homeless children. Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa-Su noon-7pm. Cash only.

Cafes

Pożegnanie z Afryką (Out of Africa), Freta 4/6. (☎501 383 094). This Polish chain of cafes brews consistently incredible coffee (9-15zł). Perfect for artsy romancing. In warm weather, enjoy the Stare Miasto sidewalk seating and the iced coffee (9zł). Branches throughout the city. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.
Antykwariat Cafe, Żurawia 45 (☎022 629 9929). Extending far into the courtyard beyond, Antykwariat (“Antiquarian”) provides a coffee shop for all tastes. Each of its 4 rooms presents a different theme, from the “library room” with its shelves of rare books to the Japanese-inspired nook in the back. Delicate cups of coffee (5-17zł) and many varieties of tea (5zł) served with a wrapped chocolate. Also serves beer, wine, and desserts. Open M-Sa 4pm-11pm. Cash only.
Wedel, Szpitalna 17 (☎022 827 2916). The Emil Wedel house, built in 1893 for the Polish chocolate tycoon, was one of the few buildings in Warsaw to survive WWII. Its 1st fl. now houses an elegant dessert cafe. The glass chandeliers and dark marble columns of this chocolate-themed cafe offer a rare glimpse of pre-war Warsaw. Enjoy the suspicion that you’ve traveled back in time, along with a cup of miraculously rich hot chocolate (11zł) served alongside Wedel’s selection of delectable cakes and ice cream concoctions. The adjacent Wedel Chocolate company store serves an array of brightly-wrapped truffles and chocolates. Open M-Sa 8am-10pm, Su 11am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Sights

To sightsee, trying using the bus. The bus routes #100 and 180 are convenient; they begin at pl. Zamkowy and run along pl. Teatralny, Marszalkowska, al. Ujazdowskie, and Lazienki Park. The routes then run back up the Royal Way, and go through Praga before returning to pl. Zamkowy.

Stare And Nowe Miasto. Warsaw’s postwar reconstruction shows its finest face in Stare Miasto (Old Town), which features cobblestoned streets and colorful facades. (Take bus #175 or E3 from the city center to Miodowa.) The landmark Statue of King Zygmunt III Waza, constructed in 1644 to honor the king who moved the capital from Kraków to Warsaw, towers over the entrance. To its right stands the impressive Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski), the royal residence from the 16th to 19th century. When the Nazis plundered and burned the castle in 1939, many Varsovians risked their lives hiding its priceless works. Today, the Royal Castle Museum houses these rescued treasures. It also has artifacts, paintings, and the stunning Royal Apartments. The massive spherical ballroom and the river-front courtyard are particularly beautiful. (Pl. Zamkowy 4. ☎022 355 5170; www.zamek-krolewski.art.pl. Tickets and guides inside the courtyard. Open M and Su 11am-6pm, Tu-Sa 10am-6pm. 20zl, students 13zl. Free highlights tour Su 11am-6pm. English-language tour M-Sa, 85zl per group. AmEx/MC/V.) Across Świętojańska sits Warsaw’s oldest church, St. John’s Cathedral (Katedra św. Jana), which was destroyed in the 1944 Uprising but rebuilt after the war. (Open daily 10am-1pm and 3-5:30pm. Crypts 1zl.)

Świętojańska leads to the restored Renaissance and Baroque Rynek Starego Miasta (Old Town Square); the statue of the Warsaw Mermaid (Warszawa Syrenka) marks the center. According to legend, a greedy merchant kidnapped the mermaid from the Wisła River, but local fishermen valiantly rescued her. In return, she swore to defend the city, protecting it with a shield and raised sword. Ul. Krzywe Koło runs from the northeast corner of the Rynek to the restored Barbican (barbakan), a rare example of 16th-century Polish fortification. It’s also popular spot to relax. The Barbican opens onto Freta, the edge of Nowe Miasto (New Town). Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist Marie Curie was born at Freta 16 in 1867. The house is now a museum. (☎022 831 8092. Open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm. 6zl, students 3zl.)

Trakt Królewski. The Trakt Królewski (Royal Way) begins at the entrance to Stare Miasto on pl. Zamkowy and stretches 4km south toward Kraków, the former capital. On the left after pl. Zamkowy, the 15th-century St. Anne’s Church (Kościół św. Anny) features a striking interior with its onyx statues, gilded chandeliers, and towering paintings. (Open daily dawn-dusk.) Frederick Chopin grew up near Krakówskie Przedmieście and gave his first public concert in Pałac Radziwiłłów, now the Polish presidential mansion guarded by four stone lions and the military police. A block down the road, set back from the street behind a grove of trees, the Church of the Visitation Nuns (Kościół Wizytówek) once rang with Chopin’s Romantic chords. (Open daily dawn-1pm and 3pm-dusk.) Though the composer died abroad, his heart belongs to Poland; it now rests in an urn in Holy Cross Church. (Kosciól sw. Krzyża. Krakówskie Przedmiescie 3. Open daily dawn-dusk.)

The Royal Way continues down fashionable Nowy Świat. Turn left at Rondo Charles de Gaulle to reach Poland’s largest museum, the National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe), which holds 16th- to 20th-century paintings in addition to a large collection of ancient and medieval artifacts. (Al. Jerozolimskie 3. ☎022 022 629 3093, English-language tours 022 629 5060; www.mnw.art.pl. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Permanent exhibits 12zł, students 7zł. Special exhibits 17/10zł. English-language tours 50zł; call 1 week ahead. AmEx/MC/V.) Farther down, the Royal Way becomes al. Ujazdowskie and runs alongside Łazienki Park (Palac Łazienkowski), which houses the striking Neoclassical Palace on Water (Pałac na Wodzie). Buildings in the park feature rotating art exhibits. (Bus #116, 180, or 195 from Nowy Świat or #119 from pl. Defilad to Bagatela. Park open daily dawn-dusk. Palace open Tu-Su 9am-4pm. 12zł, students 9zł.) Just north of the park, off ul. Agrykola, the Center of Contemporary Art (Centrum Sztuki Wspólczesnej), al. Ujazdowskie 6, hosts multimedia exhibitions in the reconstructed 17th-century Ujazdowskie Castle. (☎022 62 81 27 13; www.csw.art.pl. Open Tu-Th and Sa-Su 11am-7pm, F 11am-9pm. 12zł, students 6zł. Cash only.)

Former Ghetto And Synagogue. Walled Muranów, Warsaw’s former ghetto, holds few traces of the nearly 400,000 Jews who made up one-third of the city’s pre-war population. Built in the 1830s, the Museum of Pawiak Prison (Muzeum Więzienia Pawiaka) exhibits former inmates’ photography and poetry. Over 100,000 Polish Jews were imprisoned here from 1939 to 1944. A dead tree outside bears the names of over 30,000 prisoners killed during WWII. (Dzielna 24/26. ☎022 831 92 89. Open W 9am-5pm, Th and Sa 9am-4pm, F 10am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm. Donation requested.) Follow al. Jana Pawła II, take a left on Anielewicza, and walk five blocks to reach the Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz Żydowski). The thickly wooded cemetery holds the remains of socialist Ferdinand Lasalle, the families of physicist Max Born and chemist Fritz Haber, and writer Thomas Mann’s wife. (Slężna 37/39. Tram #9 to Slężna. ☎022 791 5904. Open Apr.-Oct. daily 9am-6pm. 5zł, students 3zł. Free English- and Polish-language tours Su noon.) The restored Nożyk Synagogue (Synagoga Nożyka) was the city’s only synagogue to survive WWII and now serves as the spiritual home for the 500 observant Jews remaining in Warsaw. (Twarda 6. From the center, take any tram along al. Jana Pawła II to Rondo Onz. Turn right on Twarda and left at Teatr Żydowski, the Jewish Theater. ☎022 620 3496. Open M-F and Su Apr.-Oct. 10am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-3pm. Closed Jewish holidays. Morning and evening prayer daily. 5zł.)

Elsewhere In Warsaw. Warsaw’s commercial district, southwest of Stare Miasto, is dominated by the 52-story Stalinist Palace of Culture and Science (Pałac Kultury i Nauki, PKiN) on Marszałkowska, which contains a string of popular shops on the ground floor and offices on the higher floors. Locals claim the view from the top is the best in Warsaw—largely because you can’t see the building itself. (☎022 656 6000. Open daily 9am-8pm, with a special night viewing F-Sa from 8pm-11pm. Observation deck on 33rd fl. 20zł, students 15zł.) Though a bit far from the city center, the new Warsaw Uprising Museum is a must-see. Educational without being pedantic and somber without being heavy-handed, it recounts the tragic 1944 Uprising with full-scale replica bunkers and ruins haunted by the sound of approaching bombs. (Grzybowska 79, enter on Przyokopowa. From the center, take tram #12, 20, or 22 to Grzybowska; the museum is on the left. ☎022 539 79 01; www.1944.pl. Multimedia presentations have English-language subtitles. Open M, W, F 8am-6pm, Th 8am-8pm, Sa-Su10am-6pm. 4zł, students 2zł; Su free. Cash only.)

Praga. Across the Wisla River from central Warsaw, the formerly run-down district of Praga is undergoing a renaissance and becoming increasingly more touristed. The gleaming onion domes and cupola of the St. Mary Magdalene Cathedral hint at the pre-Soviet Russian presence in Warsaw. (Al. Solidarnosci 52. From Russian Market, take tram #2, 8, 12, or 25 to the intersection of Targowa and al.Solidarnosci; church is across the street on the left. ☎022 619 8467. Open M and Su 1-4pm, Tu-Sa 11am-3pm.) With two tall spires, the pointed arches, and the long nave reconstructed in 1972, the St. Michael and St. Florian Cathedral is less restrained than Stare Miasto’s churches. (Florianska 3, 1 block from St. Mary Magdalene. ☎022 619 0960; www.katedra-floriana.wpraga.opoka.org.pl.) Across the street, Praski Park contains the Island of Bears, a manmade island on which bears have been kept since 1949. (Free.)

Wilanów. In 1677, King Jan III Sobieski bought the sleepy village of Milanowo and rebuilt the existing mansion into a Baroque palace. Since 1805, Pałac Wilanowski, south of Warsaw, has served as a public museum and a residence for the Polish state’s highest-ranking guests. Surrounded by elegant gardens, the palace is filled with frescoed rooms, portraits, and extravagant royal apartments. (Take bus #180 from Krakówskie Przedmiesce, #516 or 519 from Marszałkowska south to Wilanów. From the bus stop, cross the highway and follow signs. ☎022 842 8101; www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Open May 1 to mid-Sept. M,W, Sa 9:30am-6:30pm, Tu,Th, F 9:30am-4:30pm, and Su 10:30am-6:30pm; mid-Sept. to mid-Dec. and late Feb.-Apr. 30 M and W-Sa 9:30am-4:30pm, Su 10:30am-4:30pm. Last entry 1hr. before closing. Gardens open M and W-F 9:30am-dusk. Wilanów 23zł, students 15zł; Su free. Gardens 5/3zł. Cash only.)

Entertainment And Nightlife

Warsaw offers a variety of live music options, and free outdoor concerts abound in summer. Classical music performances rarely sell out; standby tickets cost as little as 10zł. Inquire at the Warsaw Music Society (Warszawskie Towarzystwo Muzyczne), ul. Morskie Oko 2 (☎022 849 5651). Take tram #4, 18, 19, 35, or 36 to Morskie Oko from ul. Marszałkowska. Nearby Łazienki Park has free Sunday performances at the Chopin Monument (Pomnik Chopina; concerts mid-May to Sept. Su noon, 4pm). Jazz Klub Tygmont (☎022 828 3409; www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 4pm-4am.), ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, hosts free concerts on weekday evenings. From July through September, the Old Market Square of Stare Miasto swings with free jazz nightly at 7pm.

Teatr Dramatyczny, in the Pałac Kultury, has a stage for big productions and a theater for avant-garde works. (☎022 656 6865; www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. 20-40zł; standby tickets 12-18zł.) The Montownia Artistic Theater, ul. Konopnickiej 6, shows a number of independent productions and frequent plays in English. (☎022 339 0760; www.montownia.art.pl. Kinoteka (☎022 826 1961), in the Pałac Kultury, features Hollywood blockbusters. Kino Lab, ul. Ujazdowskie 6 (☎022 628 1271), shows independent films. See Center for Contemporary Art, .

Warsaw buzzes with activity during the evenings. Kawiarnie (cafes) around Stare Miasto and ul. Nowy Świat are open late, and pubs with live music attract crowds. In summer, outdoor beer gardens complement the pub scene. Several publications, including Gazeta Wyborcza, list gay nightlife.

Piekarnia, Młocinska 11 (☎022 636 4979; www.pieksa.pl). Take the #22 tram to Rondo Babka and backtrack on Okopowa. Make a right on Powiazkowska, a right on Burakowa, and a right on Mlocinska. The unmarked club will be down the road on your left. This Warsaw institution is so well-known that it needs neither a sign over the door nor a central location to woo the throngs of techno-lovers that flock here. Piekarnia was one of the first modern clubs in Poland and these days the so-hip-it-hurts scene picks up around 4am. If you can get past the selective bouncer and the swarm of youths outside, you’re in for a fun night. Cover F 20zł, Sa 25zł. Open F-Sa 10pm-late.
Klubokawiarnia, Czeckiego 3 (www.klubo.pl). An authentic communist-era sign advertising “coffee, tea, and cold beverages” hangs over the bar, while portraits of Lenin gaze down from the bright red walls in this ironic imitation of the bad old days. Despite the nostalgic decor, Klubokawiarnia’s DJs spin the hottest new tracks for a stylish young crowd. Special events on occasion, such as a “Pirate Night” or “Caribbean Night” with imported sand. Cover varies. Open daily 10pm-late. Cash only.
Underground Music Cafe, Marszałkowska 126/134 (☎022 826 7048; www.under.pl). Walk down the steps behind the large McDonald’s. This 2-level dance club is a guaranteed weeknight party. A casual, young crowd of students and backpackers keep the smoky dance floor completely packed until 4am. M-Tu and Su old-school house; W and Sa hip-hop; Th 70s and 80s. Beer 5zł 11pm-midnight. Cover W-F 10zł, students 5zł; Sa 20/10zł. No cover M-Tu and Su. Open M-Sa 1pm-late, Su 4pm-late.
Szlafrok, Wierzbowa 9 (☎022 828 6477). From Marszałkowska, take a right on Senatorska, and another right on Wierzbowa; the club is on your right. This centrally-located club has all the class of a high-end establishment without the exclusivity. A sophisticated clientele mill about the gold and black columns whilst sipping from a selection of martinis and cosmopolitans. No sandals or sneakers. Cover varies. Open daily 5pm-4am.
Cinnamon, Pilsudskiego 1 (☎022 323 7600), in the Metropolitan Building across pl. Pilsudskiego from the National Opera. At this bar with attitude, one of Warsaw’s strictest door policies ensures that Cinnamon is favored only by the hottest locals and expats. The lunar-themed interior and pink accents complement the suave and impeccably dressed staff who keep the martinis flowing all night long. Don’t be surprised if you pop in for an elegant lunch and emerge at dawn the next day. Open daily 9am-late. MC/V.
Rasko, Krochmalna 32A (☎022 890 0299; www.rasko.pl). 1 block north of Grzybowska, turn left on Krochmalna; the bar is 2 blocks down on your right near a small sign and blue unmarked door. Rasko is a small, secluded, and artsy establishment that serves Warsaw’s largely underground GLBT scene. Laid-back but cautious bouncer ensures that Warsaw’s less tolerant elements stay out. The friendly staff are quick to mingle with club-goers and even join in for a round of karaoke. Beer 7zł. Open daily 6pm-2am. MC/V.