Saint Petersburg combines the Russian high-life with a strong literary intellectual vibe. Peter the Great’s penchant for gilded facades and the legacy of Russian literary giants ensure that splendor and culture are never far away. However, due to its location and Russian visa requirements, this majestic city serves more as a shrine to Russia’s superb architecture, art, and literature than as an international tourist hotspot. Take advantage of this during the winter, when the snow-covered city still has many cultural events, or during the summer, when the city’s white nights are truly worth losing some sleep over.
St. Petersburg sits at the mouth of the Neva River (Нева) on 44 islands among 50 canals. The heart of the city lies on the mainland, between the south bank of the Neva and the Fontanka River. Many of St. Petersburg’s major sights, including the Hermitage, are on or near Nevskiy Prospect (Невский проспeкт), the city’s main street, which extends from the Admiralty to the Alexander Nevskiy Monastery; the Moscow Train Station is near the midpoint. Trolleys #1, 5, 7, 10, 17, and 22 run along Nevskiy Pr. northwest of the center and across the Neva lies Vasilevskiy Island (Vasilevskiy Ostrov), the city’s largest island. On the north side of the Neva is the Petrograd Side archipelago, where the Peter and Paul Fortress stands.
Travelers can choose from a variety of hostels, hotels, and private apartments, though hotels tend to be outrageously expensive. Hotels and hostels will register your visa upon arrival and in most cases can provide you with the necessary invitation for a fee, usually about 1000-2000R (see).
The covered market, Kuznechnyy per. 3, just around the corner from M1: Vladimirskaya (Владимирская; open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-7pm) and the Maltsevskiy Rynok (Мальцевский Рынок), Nekrasova 52 (Некрасова), at the top of Ligovskiy pr. (Лиговский; M1: Pl. Vosstaniya; open daily 9am-8pm), are St. Petersburg’s largest outdoor markets. The cheapest supermarkets are Dixie, indicated by orange and yellow square signs, but Nakhodka (Находка) supermarkets, nab. Reki Fontanki 5 (Реки Фонтанки), are considered the best. There are 24hr convenience stores on the side streets off Nevskiy pr. Look for “24 часа” signs.
Museums and sights often charge foreigners several times more than Russians. Avoid paying the higher price by handing the cashier the exact amount for a Russian ticket and saying “adeen” (one). Walk with confidence, as if you know where you are going, and do not keep your map, camera, or Let’s Go in plain sight.
The Hermitage. Originally a collection of 255 paintings bought by Catherine the Great in 1764, the State Hermitage Museum (Зрмитаж; Ermitazh) houses the world’s largest art collection; it rivals the Louvre and the Prado in architectural, historical, and artistic significance. The collection is housed in the Winter Palace (Зимний дворец; Zimniy Dvorets), commissioned in 1762. Tsars lived in the complex until 1917, when the museum was nationalized. Only 5% of the 3 million-piece collection is on display at a time; even so, a full tour would cover a distance of 24 mi. English-language floor plans are available at the info desk. Arrive early during the summer, when lines can be over two hours long. Also, avoid paying the photography fee by keeping your camera in your bag when buying your entrance—once inside no one checks if you’ve paid for the photo privileges. (Nab. Dvortsovaya 36 (Дворцовая). ☎812 571 3420; www.hermitagemuseum.org. M2: Nevskiy pr. Open Tu-Sa 10:30am-6pm, Su 10:30am-5pm. 350R, students free. English-language tours 200R. Audio tour 300R. Photography 100R. Free entrance 1st Th of month.)
St. Isaac’S Cathedral. Intricately carved masterpieces of iconography are housed under the awesome 19th-century dome of St. Isaac’s Cathedral (Исаакиевский Со,ор; Isaakievskiy Sobor). On a sunny day, the 100kg of gold that coats the dome is visible for miles. The 360º view of the city from atop the colonnade is worth the 260-step climb. (☎812 315 9732. M2: Nevskiy pr. Turn left on Nevskiy pr., then left on ul. Malaya Morskaya. Cathedral open M-Tu and Th-Su in summer 10am-7pm; in winter 11am-7pm. Colonnade open M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-4am in summer; 11am-3pm in winter. Cathedral 300R, students 170R; colonnade 150/100R. Photography 50R museum, 30R colonnade.)
Church Of Our Savior On Spilled Blood. This church’s colorful forest of elaborate “onion” domes was built between 1883 and 1907 over the site of Tsar Alexander II’s 1881 assassination. Also known as the Church of Christ’s Resurrection and the Church of the Bleeding Savior, the cathedral (Спас На Крови; Spas Na Krovi) took 27 years to restore after it was used as a vegetable warehouse and morgue during the Communist crackdown on religion. It is equally impressive on the inside, housing the largest display of tile mosaic in the world, with each wall depicting a particular theme from the bible. (☎812 315 1636; www.cathedral.ru; Open M-Tu and Th-Su 11am-7pm. Kassa closes 1hr. earlier. 300R, students 170R. Photography 50R.)
Smolny Cathedral. In striking blue and gold, this 94m high cathedral is over 200 years old. Said to be the perfect architectural fusion of European and Russian architectural styles, the cathedral is surrounded by four other blue-and-white churches that form a cross. Many symphonic and chamber orchestras give concerts here, making the church a significant venue for the classical music scene of the city. During the summer the breathtaking view from the belfry is worth the climb. (3 Rastrelli Pl., M3 Chernyshevskaya. ☎812 314 2186; open Th-Tu 11am-6pm in the winter, 10am-6pm in the summer. Kassa closes 1 hr. earlier. 200R, students 100R.)
Palace Square. (Дворцовая Площадь; Dvortsovaya Ploshchad) This huge, windswept expanse in front of the Winter Palace has witnessed many turning points in Russia’s history. Catherine took the crown here after overthrowing her husband, Tsar Peter III. Much later, Nicholas II’s guards fired into a crowd of protestors on “Bloody Sunday,” precipitating the 1905 revolution. Finally, Lenin’s Bolsheviks seized power from the provisional government during the storming of the Winter Palace in October 1917. The 700-ton Alexander Column took two years to cut from a cliff. At 47m it is the largest freestanding monument in the world, commemorating Russia’s defeat of Napoleon in 1812.
Peter And Paul Fortress. Across the river from the Hermitage stand the walls and golden spire of St. Petersburg’s first settlement, the Peter and Paul Fortress (Петропавловская Крепость; Petropavlovskaya Krepost). Originally built as a defense against the Swedes in 1703, the fortress was later used as a prison for political dissidents. Inside, the Peter and Paul Cathedral (Петропавловский Собор; Petropavlovskiy Sobor) glows with rosy marble walls and a Baroque partition covered with intricate iconography. The cathedral holds the remains of Peter the Great and his successors. Turn right upon entering to view the Chapel of St. Catherine the Martyr. The remains of the last Romanovs—Tsar Nicholas II and his family—were moved here from the Artists’ Necropolis on July 17, 1998, the 80th anniversary of their murder by the Bolsheviks. Condemned prisoners awaited their fate at Trubetskoy Bastion (Трубецкой Бастон), where Peter the Great tortured his son, Aleksei. Dostoevsky and Trotsky served time here. (M2: Gorkovskaya. ☎812 230 6431; www.spbmuseum.ru. Fortress open M and W-Su 6am-10pm, Tu 11am-4pm. Cathedral open daily 10am-10pm. Roof walk across the Nevskaya panorama 10am-6pm 70R students 3R. A single ticket covers most sights. Purchase at the central kassa or in the smaller one inside the main entrance. 250R, students 130R.)
Alexander Nevskiy Monastery. Alexander Nevskiy Monastery (Александро-Невская Лавра; Aleksandro-Nevskaya Lavra) is a major pilgrimage site and peaceful strolling ground. The Artists’ Necropolis (Некрапол Мастеров Искусств; Nekropol Masterov Iskusstv) is the resting place of Dostoevsky and composers Mussorgsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, Glinka, and Tchaikovsky. The Church of the Annunciation (Благовещенская Церков; Blagoveshchenskaya Tserkov), along the stone path on the left, holds the remains of war heroes. At the end of the path is the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Свято-Тройтский СоБор; Svyato-Troytskiy Sobor), teeming with devout babushki kissing Orthodox icons. This is an active monastery, so there is a strict dress code in the cathedral: no shorts, and women must cover their shoulders and heads. (M3/4: Pl. Aleksandra Nevskovo. ☎812 2741612 . Grounds open daily 6am-11pm. Artists’ Necropolis open daily 11am-7pm. Cathedral open daily 6am-9pm. Kassa closes 5pm. Cemetery 100R, students 50R; cathedral grounds 100/50R.)
Along Nevskiy Prospect. Many sights are clustered around the western end of bustling Nevskiy pr., the city’s 5km main thoroughfare. Unfortunately, there is no metro station immediately nearby; one was built, but after the station was completed, construction of an entrance or exit connecting it to the surface was not approved, due to concerns about crime and vagrancy. The Admiralty (Адмиралтейство; Admiralteystvo), across the street from the Winter Palace, towers over the surrounding gardens and most of Nevskiy pr. Originally intended for shipbuilding by Peter the Great, it was a naval headquarters until recently, when it became a naval college. In the park to the left of the Admiralty stands the Bronze Horseman statue of Peter the Great, one of the most widely recognized symbols of the city. (M2: Nevskiy pr.) Walking east on Nevskiy pr., the enormous, Roman-style Kazansky Cathedral (Казанский Собор; Kazanskiy Sobor) looms to the right. It houses the remains of General Kutuzov, commander of the Russian army in the war against Napoleon. (☎812 314 4663. M2: Nevskiy pr. Open daily 8:30am-7:30pm. Free.) The 220-year-old Merchants’ Yard (Гостиный Двор; Gostinyy Dvor), one of the world’s oldest indoor shopping malls, is to the right (M3: Gostinyy Dvor. Open M-Sa 10am-10pm, Su 10am-9pm). Nearby Ostrovskovo Square (Островского) houses the Aleksandrinskiy Theater (see Festivals and Entertainment, ), a massive statue of Catherine the Great, and the public library, which contains Voltaire’s private library, purchased in its entirety by Catherine the Great. (Foreigners can obtain a library card for free; bring passport, visa, and 2 photographs. Library open daily 9am-9pm.) Turn left before the Fontanka canal on nab. Reki Fontanka and look down before crossing the bridge at ul. Pestelya to find the Smallest Monument in the World. According to lore, landing a coin on the platform of the tiny bird statue brings good luck.
Summer Gardens And Palace. Trezzini built the long, shady paths of the Summer Gardens and Palace (Летний Сад и Дворец; Letniy Sad i Dvorets) for Peter the Great in 1710. Peter’s modest Summer Palace, in the northeast corner, reflects his cosmopolitan taste, with furnishings ranging from Spanish and Portuguese chairs to Dutch tile and German clocks. Mars Field (Марсово Поле; Marsovo Pole), a memorial to the victims of the Revolution and Civil War (1917-19), extends out from the Summer Gardens. (M2: Nevskiy pr. Turn right on nab. Kanala Griboyedova (Канала Грибоедова), cross the Moyka, and turn right on ul. Pestelya (Пестеля). ☎812 314 0374. Garden open W-Su 10am-6pm, free. Palace open M 10am-4pm, Tu-Su 10am-6pm; closed last M of the month; kassa closes 5pm. Palace 300R, students 150R.)
Other Museums. Spread over several buildings, the State Russian Museum (усский Музей; Russkiy Muzey) boasts the world’s second-largest collection of Russian art. Exhibits are displayed in three other locations throughout the city. (M3: Nevskiy Prospect;. ☎812 595 4248; www.rusmuseum.ru. Open M 10am-5pm, W-Su 10am-6pm. 300R, students 150R. Tickets to all museum sites 600R/300R. Photography 100R.) Dostoevsky’s House (Дом Достоевского; Dom Dostoevskovo) is where the author penned The Brothers Karamazov and spent the last two years of his life. (Kuznechnyy per. 5/2 (Кузненый). M1: Vladimirskaya. On the corner of ul. Dostoevskovo. ☎812 311 4031. Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm. 120R, students 70R. Photography 40 R.)
From mid-May to mid-July, the city holds a series of outdoor concerts as part of the White Nights Festival, celebrating the long summer nights. Bridges over the Neva River go up at 1:30am and don’t come back down until 4:30 or 5:30am, so be wary of partying on one side if your hostel is on the other. The home of Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev, and Stravinsky still lives up to its reputation as a mecca for the performing arts. The Mariinskiy Theater (Марийнский; or Kirov), Teatralnaya pl. 1 (Театральная), M4: Sadovaya, houses perhaps the world’s most famous ballet company. Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker and The Sleeping Beauty , along with works by Baryshnikov and Nijinsky premiered here. Tickets can be purchased in Gostinyy Dvor or at the theatre’s box office at 1 Theatre Square from 11am-7pm. (☎812 326 4141; www.mariinsky.ru; tickets 320-4800R. Kassa open Tu-Su 10am-7pm.) Aleksandrinskiy Teatr (Александринский Театр), pl. Ostrovskovo 6, M3: Gostinyy Dvor, attracts famous Russian actors and companies. (☎812 312 1546. Tickets 100-2500R.) Mussorgsky Opera and Ballet Theater (Театр Имени Муссоргского; Еуфек Шьутш Ьгыыщкпылщмщ), pl. Iskusstv, is open all summer, whereas the Mariinskiy closes for several weeks. (☎812 595 4284; www.mikhailovsky.ru. Bring your passport. Tickets 300-1500R. Kassa open 11am-3pm, 4-7pm.) Shostakovich Philharmonic Hall, ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, M3: Gostinyy Dvor, opposite the Russian Museum, is over 200 years old, and was the site of some Beethoven premieres. (☎812 312 9871; www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Tickets 750-2000R. Kassa open daily 11am-3pm and 4-7pm.) The Mussorgsky and Shostakovich theaters both lie around the Square of the Arts. The Friday issue of the St. Petersburg Times has comprehensive listings of entertainment and nightlife. Book tickets to various performances online in English at www.kassir.ru.
Peterhof. Bent on creating his own Versailles, Peter started building the Grand Palace (Большой Дворец; Bolshoy Dvorets) in 1709. Catherine the Great later expanded and remodeled it, creating an absolutely stunning palace surrounded by hundreds of fountains and golden statues. Though Peterhof was burned to the ground during the Nazi retreat, it was reconstructed from various maps and photographs, and lost none of its former splendor. Today, the Lower Gardens are a perfect place for a picnic along the shores of the Gulf of Finland. (Open daily 11am-6pm, 300R, students 150R. Grand Palace ☎812 450 6223. Open Tu-Su 10:30am-6pm; closed last Tu of month. 500R, students 250R. Fountains operate May-Oct. 11am-5pm.) There are 17 museums on the grounds. Roaming the nearby Upper Gardens is free. (Upon exiting, go across the street and catch bus #424, whose final destination is Peterhof. 45R.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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