Scandinavian capitals consent to being urban without renouncing the landscape around them and Oslo (pop. 550,000) is no exception. The Nordmarka forest to the north and Oslofjord to the south bracket the city’s cultural institutions, busy cafes, and expensive boutiques. While most of Norway remains homogeneous, Oslo has a vibrant immigrant community in its eastern and northern sections. But even as globalization moves Oslo towards greater cosmopolitanism, Norwegian history and folk traditions still shape the city. Olso is a rather pricey destination, but also an essential stop on any trip to Scandinavia.
In Oslo center, the garden plaza Slottsparken (Castle Park) lies beside Oslo University and the Nationaltheatret (National Theater) and surrounds the Royal Palace. The city’s main street, Karl Johans gate, runs through the heart of town from Slottsparken to the train station Oslo Sentralstasjon (Oslo S) at its eastern end. Ferries depart from the harbor, southwest of Oslo S near Akershus Castle. Many museums and beaches are southwest on the Bygdøy peninsula. Ferries to Bygdøy depart from the dock behind Rådhus (City Hall). Massive construction projects are currently reshaping the harbor, an initiative marked by the new opera house—its elaborate architecture and great fjord views from the roof make it worth a visit. Parks are scattered throughout Oslo, especially north of the Nationaltheatret. Of note is Saint Hanshaugen, a hilly park north of the city center up Akersgata as it becomes Ullevålsveien. A network of public trams, buses, and subways makes transit through the outskirts quick and easy. Grünerløkka to the north and Grønland to the east—home to many of Oslo immigrants—are often cheaper than the city’s other neighborhoods, while their boutiques, cafes, and parks showcase some of the latest urban trends. Despite some concern, the area generally has few safety problems.
Hostels in Oslo fill up in summer. Reservations are essential. The private rooms available through Use-It (see tourist offices) start from below 200kr. Pensjonater (pensions) are well-located but can be more expensive. Check with the tourist office for last-minute accommodation deals. Travelers can camp for free in the forest north of town; try the end of the Sognsvann line #3. Young Norwegians often drink at home before heading out because of high bar prices, but most hostels, including HI, prohibit alcohol consumption on their premises.
Visitors can choose between hearty, often bland Norwegian fare and a variety of ethnic dishes. Either way, they usually feel robbed blind once the check arrives. Smart backpackers stock up at the city’s grocery stores perhaps even buying a very cheap grill and heading to one of Oslo’s many parks (a popular Norwegian activity). Look for the chains ICA, Kiwi, and Rema 1000 (generally open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm), or pick up fresh produce at the Youngstorget open-air market (M-Sa 7am-2pm). In the budget-friendly Grønland district, east of Oslo S, vendors hawk cheap kebabs, pizza, sushi, burgers, and falafel (from 40kr), while halal butchers can provide travelers with cooking meat.
Vigelandsparken. Sculptor Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943) designed this 80-acre expanse west of the city center. The park is home to over 200 of his mammoth works, depicting all stages of the human life cycle. His controversial, puzzling art is worth deciphering. Monolith is a towering granite column of intertwining bodies in the middle of the park. (Entrance on Kirkeveien. Take bus #20 or tram #12 or 15 to Vigelandsparken. Open 24hr. Free.) While wandering through the park, stop at the Oslo Bymuseum (Oslo City Museum) for art and photography collections, displays on the city’s history, and restored pavilions. (☎23 28 41 70; www.oslomuseum.no. Open Tu-Su 11am-4pm. Free.) Next to the park, the Vigelandmuseet (Vigeland Museum) traces the artist’s development from his early works to the monumental pieces of his later years. The museum is housed in the building Vigeland used as his apartment and studio. (Nobelsgt. 32. ☎23 49 37 00. Open June-Aug. Tu-Su 10am-5pm; Sept.-May Tu-Su noon-4pm. 50kr, students 25kr. Oct.-Mar free. MC/V.)
Art Museums. Renovations at Munchmuseet (Munch Museum) improved its security system after a 2004 theft of two paintings, including a version of The Scream, Munch’s most famous work. The paintings have been recovered, albeit with some damage. The museum has a collection of Munch’s other abstract works along with temporary Impressionist exhibits. (Tøyengt. 53. Take the metro to Tøyen or bus #20 to Munchmuseet. ☎23 49 35 00; www.munch.museum.no. Open June-Aug. daily 10am-6pm, English tours 1pm; Sept.-May Tu-F 10am-4pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm. 65kr, students 35kr; free with Oslo Pass. AmEx/MC/V.) The definitive version of The Scream is at the Nasjonalmuseet (National Art Museum), which also has a collection of works by Cézanne, Gauguin, van Gogh, Matisse, and Picasso, as well as renowned Norwegians like Dahl and Sohlberg. (Universitetsgt. 13. ☎21 98 20 00; www.nasjonalmuseet.no. Open Tu-W and F 10am-6pm, Th 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm. Free.) Next door at Oslo University’s Aulaen (Assembly Hall), several of Munch’s dreamy, idealistic murals show his interest in bringing art to the masses. (Enter through the door by the ionic columns off Karl Johans gt. Open June 27-Aug. 3 M-F 10am-4pm. Free.)
The Museet for Samtidskunst (Contemporary Art Museum) displays works by Norwegian artists and rotates its collection frequently. If you can find it, check out Inner Space V, a steel staircase leading to a mysterious corridor with a true “light at the end of the tunnel.” (Bankplassen 4. Take bus #60 or tram #10, 12, 13, or 19 to Kongens gt. ☎22 86 22 10. Open Tu-W and F 11am-5pm, Th 11am-7pm, Sa-Su midnight-5pm. From June to early Sept. English tour Su 2pm. Free.) Nearby, the private Astrup Fearnly Museum of Modern Art has a more international collection, with some striking installations and video pieces. (Dronningens gt. 4. ☎22 93 60 60; www.afmuseet.no. Open Tu-W and F 11am-5pm, Th 11am-7pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. Free.)
Akershus Castle And Fortress. Originally constructed in 1299, this waterfront complex was rebuilt as a Renaissance palace after Oslo burned in 1624. Norway’s infamous traitor, Vidkun Quisling, was imprisoned here prior to his execution for aiding the 1940 Nazi invasion. (Tram #12 to Rådhusplassen. ☎23 09 39 17. Complex open daily 6am-9pm. Castle open May-Aug. M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 12:30-4pm. Sept.-Oct. Th guided tours only in English at noon and 1pm. English and Norwegian guided tours from mid-June to early Aug. Sa-Su 3pm. Grounds free. Castle 65kr, students 45kr; free with Oslo Pass. MC/V.) The castle grounds include the powerful Resistance Museum, which documents Norway’s campaign against the Nazi occupation. (☎23 09 31 38. Open June-Aug. M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm; Sept.-May M-F 10am-4pm, Sa-Su 11am-4pm. 30kr, students 15kr; free to all military personnel. Free with Oslo Pass. MC/V.) On the other side of the complex is the Armed Forces Museum which offers exhibits on the history of Norway’s military from the Viking age on into the Cold War. A current temporary exhibit deals with Norwegian UN Peacekeeping. (☎23 09 35 82. Open May-Aug. M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm; Sept.-Apr. M-F 11am-4pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm. Free.)
Bygdøy. Bygdøy peninsula, across the inlet from central Oslo, is mainly residential, but its beaches and museums make it worth a visit. In summer, a public ferry leaves from Pier 3, Råhusbrygges, in front of City Hall. (☎23 35 68 90; www.boatsightseeing.com. 10min.; Apr.-Sept. and from late May to mid-Aug. 2-3 per hr.; 22kr, 30kr on board. Or take bus #30 from Oslo S to Folkemuseet or Bygdøynes.) The open-air Norsk Folkemuseum, near the ferry’s first stop at Dronningen, recreates historical Norway, (especially that of the 18th century) with restored thatch huts, knowledgable actors in period costume, and special performances and demonstrations. (Walk uphill from the dock and follow signs to the right for 10min., or take bus #30 from Nationaltheatret. ☎22 12 37 00; www.norskfolkemuseum.no. Open mid-May to mid-Sept. daily 10am-6pm; mid-Sept. to mid-May M-F 11am-3pm, Sa-Su 11am-4pm. Fold Dance show June-Aug. Su 2pm. In summer 95kr, students 70kr; in winter 70/50kr. MC/V.) Down the road (5min.), the Vikingskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum) showcases the stunning remains of three well-preserved burial vessels. (☎22 13 52 83; www.khm.uio.no. Open daily May-Sept. 9am-6pm; Oct.-Apr. 11am-4pm. 50kr, students 35kr; free with Oslo Pass. AmEx/MC/V.) Then walk down to Bygdøynes, the ferry’s second stop, and check out the Kon-Tiki Museet, named after a displayed balsa wood raft used on a journey from Lima, Peru to the Polynesian Islands, by Oscar-winning documentarian Thor Heyerdahl. The museum hold all sorts of artifacts from his journeys and efforts to demonstrate the potential for early cross-continental transportation. (Bygdøynesveien 36. ☎23 08 67 67; www.kon-tiki.no. Open daily June-Aug. 9:30-5:30, April, May, and Sept. 10am-5pm, Mar. and Oct. 10:30am-4pm, and Nov-Feb. 10:30am-3:30pm. 50kr, students 35kr; free with Oslo Pass. AmEx/MC/V.) Next door, the Norsk Sjøfartsmuseum (Norwegian Maritime Museum) is home to a video on Norway’s stunning coastline and the country’s oldest boat, among other nautical exhibits. Learn about the nation’s seafaring history, from log canoes to cruise ships, and enjoy a view of Oslofjord. (Bygdøynesveien 37. ☎24 11 41 50. Open mid-May to Aug. daily 10am-6pm; Sept. to mid-May M-W and Sa-Su 10:30am-4pm, Th 10:30am-6pm. 40kr, students 25kr. Free with Oslo Pass. MC/V.) The Arctic exploration vessel FRAM, adjacent to the museum, was used on three expeditions in the early 20th century and has advanced farther north and south than any other vessel. Visitors can roam through the well-preserved interior. (Bygdøynesveien 36. ☎23 28 29 50. Open daily June to Aug. 9am-6:00pm; May and Sept. daily 10am-5pm. Mar., Apr., Oct. daily 10am-4pm. Nov.-Feb. M-F 10am-3pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm. 50kr, students 20kr; free with Oslo Pass. MC/V.) The southwestern side of Bygdøy is home to two popular beaches: Huk appeals to a younger crowd, while Paradisbukta is more family-oriented. The shore between them is a nude beach. (Take bus #30 or walk south for 25min. left along the shore from the Bygdøynes ferry stop.)
Other Sights. The Royal Palace, in Slottsparken, is open for guided tours, although tickets sell out ahead. Since it’s not included in the Oslo pass, it may be enough just to view the daily changing of the guard at 1:30pm in front of the palace. (Tram #12, 13, 19, or bus #30-32 to Slottsparken. Open from late June to mid-Aug. English-language tours M-Th, Sa noon, 2, 2:20pm; F and Su 2, 2:20, and 4pm. Buy tickets at post and tourist offices. 95kr, students 85kr.) The nearby Ibsenmuseet (Henrik Ibsen Museum) documents the notoriously private playwright’s life with a dramatic exhibition space and guided tours of his last apartment. (Henrik Ibsens gt. 26. ☎22 12 35 50; www.ibsenmuseet.no. Open from mid-May to mid-Sept. Tu-Su 11am-6pm; from mid-Sept. to mid-May Tu-W and F-Su 11am-4pm, Th 11am-6pm. English- and Norwegian-language tours 7 per day; in winter 3 per day. 45kr; with tour 85kr, students 60kr; free with Oslo Pass. AmEx/MC/V.) The Domkirke, next to Stortorvet in the city center, is hard to miss. The Lutheran cathedral has a colorful ceiling with biblical motifs. (Karl Johans gt. 11. ☎23 31 46 00; www.oslodomkirke.no. Open M-Th 10am-4pm, F 10am-4pm and 10pm-midnight, Sa 10am-4pm and 9-11pm. Free .) The Nobel Peace Center, by the harbor, features profiles on all laureates, information on the award and the ceremony, and traveling exhibitions on the main floor dealing with the issues of peace in the world. (Brynjulf Bulls Plass 1. Tram #12 to Aker Brygge. ☎48 30 10 00; www.nobelpeacecenter.org. Open June-Aug. daily M-W and F-Su 10am-6pm, Th 10am-7pm; Sept.-May Tu, W, F 10am-4pm, Th 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm; 80kr, students 55kr; free with Oslo Pass. MC/V.) For much of 2009, the facility will be closed for the construction of a new jump in time for trials before it hosts the 2011 World Championships. Take the 1st Subway line toward Frognerseteren to reach the world famous ski stadium Holmenkollen. The complex also features the world’s oldest ski museum and special exhibitions on Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, A simulator recreates a leap off a ski jump and a blisteringly swift downhill run. (Kongeveien 5. From the subway, follow the signs uphill 10min. ☎22 92 32 00; www.skiforeningen.no. Open daily June-Aug. 9am-8pm; Sept. and May 10am-5pm; Oct.-Apr. 10am-4pm. Museum and tower 70kr, students 60kr; free with Oslo Pass. Simulator 50kr, with Oslo Pass 40kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Historical Museum of the University of Oslo has a variety of exhibits on the history of Norway. (Frederiks Gate. ☎22 85 19 00; www.khm.uio.no. Open from mid-Sept. to mid-May daily 11am-6pm, from mid-May to mid-Sept. Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Free.) Finally, for those weary of the city, there’s the outdoors. Bike trails run through the city and along the river Akerelva. In winter, skiing (alpine and nordic) is a favorite activity. Supposedly, Norwegians are born with skis on their feet. Check the tourist office for the nearest trails and ski rental.
The monthly What’s On in Oslo, free at tourist offices and most accommodations, follows the latest in opera, symphony, and theater. Filmens Hus, Dronningens gt. 16, is the center of Oslo’s indie film scene. (☎22 47 45 00. Check schedule online at www.nfi.no/cinemateket. 75kr per movie, members 45kr; 6 month registration 100kr.) Jazz enthusiasts head to town for the Oslo Jazz Festival in mid-August. (☎22 42 91 20, booking ☎81 53 31 33; www.oslojazz.no). Buy tickets to this and other events online at billettservice.no and pick up at any post office. Countless bars along Karl Johans gate and in the Aker Brygge harbor complex attract a hard-partying crowd, while a mellow mood prevails at the cafe-by-day, bar-by-night lounges along Thorvald Meyers gate in Grüner Løkka. Alcohol tends to be expensive out on the town, so young Norwegians have taken to the custom of the Vorspiel —gathering at private homes to sip comparatively cheap, store-bought liquor before staggering out to the streets and then reconvening later for a little nachspiel (afterparty).
Around The City. Harbor cruises visit the nearby islands of inner Oslofjord. The ruins of a Cistercian Abbey, as well as a picnic-friendly southern shore, lie on the island of Hovedøya, while Langøyene has Oslo’s best beach and a free campground. (Take bus #60 from City Hall to Vippetangen to catch ferry #92 or 93 to Hovedøya or ferry #94 to Langøyene.) The well-preserved fortress town of Fredrikstad is less than 2hr. south of Oslo. The 28km Glommastien path winds through abandoned brickyards and timber mills along the Glomma River. Ferries travel to seaside resorts on the Hvaler Islands. The info office on the harbor, Toyhusgt. 98, has ferry schedules. (☎69 30 46 00. Open June-Aug. M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-4pm; Sept.-May M-F 9am-4:30pm.Train to Fredrikstad 1hr.; 1 every 2hr.; 172kr, students 129kr.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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