Île Rousse Overview

In 1765, the clever Pascal Paoli decided to build a French port that would give him access to mainland France and divert trade from Genoese-dominated Calvi. Thus, Île Rousse (eel rooss; pop. 2500) was founded largely out of spite. Though both towns eventually came under French control, their historic rivalry was furthered when Calvi constructed an impressive marina, airport, and other tourist-friendly projects. Today, Île Rousse is a perfect hub for watersport enthusiasts tired of flashy Calvi; it also offers hikers leisurely trails in the countryside of the Balagne. The town itself retains its charm; visitors quickly get the sense that everyone knows everyone else.

Transportation. Ferries go to Marseille (5-9hr.; 2 per week; €40-58, students €25-45) and Nice (3-10hr.; 2-7 per week; €35-47, students €20-32); call Agence CCR, av. J. Calizi, for info. (☎04 95 60 09 56. Open June-Aug. M-Tu and Th-F 9am-noon and 2-6pm, W 9am-noon and 2:30-6pm, Sa 9am-noon; Sept.-May M-F 8:30am-noon and 2-5:30pm.) Trains go to Ajaccio, Bastia, and Calvi. (☎04 95 60 00 50. Open daily July-Sept. 6am-8:30pm; Oct.-June 8am-9:30pm.) Tramways de la Balagne trains hug the coast en route to Calvi (50min., June-Sept. 9 per day, €5.40; MC/V). The train stops at every beach and campsite on its way.

Orientation And Practical Information. At 2km across, Île Rousse is easy to navigate. To get to the tiny tourist office from the train station or ferry depot, walk right for 5min. with the ocean on your left to the far side of pl. Paoli. (☎04 95 60 04 35; www.balagne-corsica.com. Open June-Sept. M-Sa 9am-7pm, Su 10am-1pm and 5-7pm; Oct.-May M-F 9am-noon and 2-6pm. Wi-Fi €5 per hour. Cash only.) Find Internet access at Movie Store, route de Calvi, across from the Casino supermarket. (☎04 95 65 47 97. €2 per 15min., €3 per 30min., €5 per hr. €2 per hr. when purchased in bulk. Open M-Sa 10am-2am, Su 2pm-2am. Cash only.) The post office is on route de Monticello, to the left of the supermarket. (☎04 95 63 05 50. Open July-Aug. M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-noon; Sept.-June M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa 8:30am-noon.) Postal Code: 20220.

Accommodations And Camping. Since Île Rousse tends to attract the financially gifted, there’s only one budget hotel in town. To find Hôtel le Grillon , in Île Rousse, 800m from downtown on av. Paul Doumer, the main road to Bastia. A bar and pizzeria provide food for happy campers. (☎04 95 60 19 92; lesolivierskalliste@wanadoo.fr. Laundry €6. Reception open 8am-noon and 2-8pm. Open Apr.-Oct. €6.20 per person; €3.70 per tent; €2.70 per car. Electricity €3.50. July-Aug. closed to cars after 11pm. Chalet doubles €85. Bungalows €330-570 per week. MC/V.) From St-Florent, save yourself the arduous uphill trek from the train station and ask the bus driver to stop at the campground.

Food. The city’s small, signature covered market off place Paoli, now a historical monument, has brought the freshest produce to town since 1850. Its stalls still burst with ripe local fruits, olives, and the catch of the day. (Open daily 7am-1pm.) The Casino supermarket on the Palais des Allées picks up where the market leaves off. (☎04 95 60 24 23. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 8:30am-1pm; Sept.-June M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 3-7pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm. MC/V.) Brasseries and crêperies around pl. Paoli fill with diners hungry for inexpensive eats. For a quiet sit-down meal, try U Fucone , an art gallery/restaurant run by local photographer Antoine Perigot. Specialties—such as calamari—on the €17 four-course menu du jour are served in a gallery featuring Perigot’s professional photographs of Corsica and Burkina Faso. Both settings are also the subjects of the photographer’s two published books, which are available for purchase at the restaurant. (☎06 12 73 83 29; www.miccanomi.fr. Open M-F from 6pm. Closing time varies. MC/V.)

Beaches And Outdoor Activities. Like much of Corsica’s western coast, Île Rousse is lined with white-sand beaches that are overrun in July and August. For less crowded spots, take the train toward Calvi and get off when you see an appealing stretch. To take advantage of the town’s beaches, stop by the Club Nautique, across from the train station, and rent a kayak or catamaran to visit Île Rousse’s namesake isles and access some of the region’s best snorkeling. (☎04 95 60 22 55; www.cnir.org. Reservations recommended. Kayaks €12 per hr. Catamarans €31-39 per hr. 2hr. kayak tour of coastal islands €30 per person. Open Jan.-Nov. daily 10am-6pm. Cash only.)