Saint-Florent Overview

Across from Bastia at the base of Cap Corse, the resort town of St-Florent (sehn flohr-ahn; pop. 1500) draws a crowd of sun-seekers to its wide beaches—arguably the region’s best—and sizable pleasure-boat port. Below the expansive Golfe de St-Florent, the town lies at the intersection of three dramatically different regions: the rugged Cap Corse, the fertile Nebbio, and the unforgiving Desert des Agriates. It is an excellent weekend trip from Bastia; although it is close to the city, bus schedules prevent daytripping.

Transportation And Practical Information. Autocars Santini (☎04 95 37 02 98) sends buses to Bastia (50min.; M-Sa 6:45am, 2pm; €5) and Île Rousse (1hr.; M-Sa 9am, 4:30pm; €10) from the station below port de Plaisance. Buy tickets on the bus. To get to the tourist office from the bus station, walk past pl. des Portes, veer right, and continue uphill; the office is on the left. The staff distributes the St-Florent practical guide, which includes a map. Ask for information about regional festivals, including movie showings in June and July. (☎04 95 37 06 04; fax 35 30 74. Open July-Aug. M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 2-7pm, Sa 9am-noon and 3-6pm, Su 9am-noon; Sept.-June M-F 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Sa 9am-noon. Hours change weekly.)

Accommodations And Camping. Budget travelers will have to search hard for reasonable accommodations, especially in August. Reserve far in advance. A good bet is the Hôtel du Centre , head south on CD 81 from the bus station and cross the pedestrian bridge. Walk down the beach until the sign for the Base Nautique; the campground is across the road on your left (15min.). Eucalyptus trees provide plenty of shade for 145 sites near a popular beach. Amenities include a snack bar, pizzeria, and mini-market. Kids will enjoy the tiny on-site animal farm, which features goats and sheep. (}/fax 04 95 37 01 65. Showers free. Reception 8-11:30am and 3-6:30pm. Open from Apr. to mid-Oct. €14 per 2 people, tent, and car. Electricity €3.50. Cash only.)

Food. Create your own meal at SPAR supermarket, near the bus stop. (☎04 95 37 00 56. Open June-Aug. M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 8am-1pm and 5-7pm; Sept.-May M-Sa 8am-noon and 3:30-7pm, Su 8am-noon. MC/V.) The quai along port de Plaisance is home to several very similar restaurants. An exception is Chez Toinu , the last restaurant on the pier, which offers large portions for moderate prices. The €15 menu includes eggplant parmesan or another entrée, a plat, a cheese course, and the dessert du jour. For a lighter meal, try the moules Pietra (€8), mussels made with the popular Corsican beer. (☎04 95 37 05 25. Meat plats €12-20. Pizza €6-10. Open daily 11am-11pm. AmEx.)

Beaches And Outdoor Activities. St-Florent offers several sunbathing options. The town’s two principal beaches meet at the port and host crowds of umbrellas in August. North of the citadel lies plage de l’Ospedale, a long, pebbly stretch hidden from traffic by a concrete wall. From town, walk uphill on RN 199 (toward Cap Corse); the beach is 10min. past the post office. Boisterous plage de la Roya, south of port de Plaisance, tempts a tan crowd with a sandy crescent framed by distant mountains. Plenty of wind makes the area perfect for windsurfing and sailing. Base Nautique, at the southern end of the beach, offers one-stop shopping for watersport enthusiasts. (☎06 12 10 23 27; www.corskayak.com. Windsurfing equipment €14 per hr. Kayaks €12-15 per hr. Surf bikes €10 per hr. Catamarans €50. Lessons for novices €50. Kayak expeditions €45. Open June-Sept. daily 8am-8:30pm; Oct. by appointment only. Cash only.) True beach bliss lies farther south at plage du Lodo (Lotu in Corse), a tourist-free slice of paradise accessible only by boat. Le Popeye makes the 30min. trip from June through September from port de Plaisance. (☎04 95 37 19 07. Round-trip €14, under 18 €6. Purchase tickets 1hr. before departure. Departures at 8:45, 10, 11:15am, 12:30, 1:45, 3:15pm. Return trips noon-7:30pm. Info desk on the port open daily 8am-7:30pm. Cash only.) From plage du Lodo, a 1hr. hike south leads to the pristine plage de Saleccia, an isolated spot that will make sun-worshippers think they’ve found paradise at last.