Castellane Overview

Sixty kilometers off the coast, Europe’s widest and deepest gorge is a world apart from the geographically tame beaches and vineyards that Provence is known for. The gorge is especially worth a visit for its watersports; the nearby town of Castellane is home to a micro-industry of adventure outfits that plan nearly every excursion imaginable. Though the tree-speckled, chalky canyon is appealing, most people come for the Verdon River and the Lac de Ste-Croix.

Transportation. Castellane, 17km east of the canyon and the largest village in the area, is unfortunately a bit of a pain to reach from the coast. VFD buses (☎08 20 83 38 33) run from Grasse (70min.; depart from Grasse 8am, return 6:20pm; €6.30). Autocars Sumian (☎04 42 54 72 82) runs from Marseille to Castellane once per day (July-Aug. M-Sa), stopping at several smaller villages around the canyon along the way. The canyon itself can be equally difficult to access. In July and August, Transports GUICHARD (☎04 92 83 64 47) sends a shuttle from Castellane toward Point Sublime, La Palud, and La Maline (30-75min., 2 per day, €6.80). Otherwise, taxis run from Castellane to various points throughout the region (☎04 92 83 61 62 or 83 60 80; from €30).

Practical Information. The Castellane tourist office, at the end of rue Nationale, has bus schedules, free Sentier Martel maps, and brochures on adventure outfitters. (☎04 92 83 61 14; www.castellane.org. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-7pm, Su 10am-1pm; Sept.-Oct. M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm; Nov.-June M-F 9am-noon and 2-5pm.) Get cash for your adventure tour at the ATM at 3 pl. Marcel Sauvaire, by the bus stop (☎08 20 06 43 91). Before venturing into the canyon, stock up on outdoor gear at L’Échoppe, 36 rue Nationale, Castellane’s only outdoor outfitter. (}/fax 04 92 83 60 06. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 8am-12:45pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm, Su 4-7pm; Sept. and June M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-7:30pm; Apr.-May M-Sa 9:30am-noon and 3-7pm. MC/V.) Find Internet at Aqua Verdon, 9 rue Nationale, by the tourist office.

Accommodations And Food. Because shuttle access is so infrequent, it might be worth spending the night in Castellane and heading for the gorge early the next morning. An endless number of large, excellent campgrounds can be found in the area surrounding the canyon, but one of the closest to Castellane is Camping Le Frédéric Mistral . This small hotel boasts a restaurant on the first floor, a spacious common area with a pool table, and 11 cozy rooms with showers. On weekends during the low season and every night in July and August, the hotel is also home to the only discothèque within 50km. If you’re lucky, one of the club’s popular foam parties will coincide with your stay in Castellane. (☎04 92 83 78 97; www.moulin-salaou.com. Restaurant menus €10-24. Discothèque cover €8; includes 1 drink. Open July-Aug. daily 11pm-4am. Breakfast €6. Reception daily 8-10:30am and 4pm-midnight. Open Apr.-Sept. Doubles €39-45; triples €43-50; quads €46-56; quints €50-62. MC/V.) Several budget restaurants are located on place de la République and along rue Nationale. Pick up groceries at the Petit Casino on pl. de l’Église. (☎04 92 83 63 01. Open Tu-F 8:20am-noon and 1:30-5pm, Sa 8:20am-noon. MC/V.)

Hiking. The canyon’s most traveled trail is Sentier Martel, a.k.a. the GR4 trail. The 6-8hr. hike traces the river for 14km from La Maline east to Point Sublime, passing through tunnels and caves rumored to have once hidden fugitives. To reach the trailhead, drive east from La Palud or Verdon for 8km to La Maline. Red and white markers at the Chalet de la Maline indicate the route. Bring flashlights, sturdy footwear, and plenty of water. Though the trail is easily navigable with a free map and directions from the Castellane tourist office, guides are available upon request. (Contact Daniel Duflot, chemin des Listes; ☎04 92 83 67 24; accueil@rafting-castellane.com. Or Jean-Luc Herry, 12 bd. de la République; ☎04 92 83 75 74; contact@aquavivaest.com.)

Other Outdoor Activities. The Verdon River’s water flows into Lac de Sainte-Croix; at the mouth of the gorge is a perfect spot for canoeing and kayaking. The GR4 trail past La Palud-sur-Verdon takes you there by foot. By car, take D952 past La Palud to Moustiers and follow signs to Ste-Croix-de-Verdon or take D955 before Moustiers to Comps-Artuby. From there, D71 toward Les Salles-sur-Verdon brings you to the lake. A number of watersport outfits run trips through the canyon—including rafting, kayaking, canoeing, canyoning, hydrospeeding, aqua-trekking, tubing, and rock-climbing excursions—and competition keeps prices reasonable. Companies that offer a variety of comparable services and prices include: Aboard Rafting, 8 pl. de l’Église (☎04 92 83 76 11; www.aboard-rafting.com); Acti-Raft, route des Gorges du Verdon, at the end of rue Nationale near the tourist office (☎04 92 83 76 64; www.actiraft.com); Aqua Viva Est, 12 bd. de la République (☎04 92 83 75 74; www.aquavivaest.com); and Base Sport & Nature, 10 rue de la Fontaine (☎04 92 83 11 42). Though rafting and kayaking are the most conventional activities, summer water levels are only high enough about twice a week. (Usually Tu and F; for info, call ☎04 92 83 69 07.) Prices are generally about €33 per 2hr. “discovery” trip (rafting, kayaking, canyoning, etc.), €45-55 per half-day, and €65-75 per day. Hydrospeeding tends to be about €10 more. Verdon Escalade, Les Subis, La Palud/Verdon offers rock-climbing excursions (contact Fred Devoluet, ☎04 92 83 75 51; www.verdonescalade.com) while Top Jump, 42 chemin des Presses in Cagnes-sur-Mer, outfits walk-in bungee jumpers during the summer. (☎04 93 73 50 29; http://topjump.free.fr. €60 per jump. Open from mid-July to Aug. daily 1-5pm, or by reservation.) La Ferme Équestre du Pesquier, route de Digne, in Castellane, organizes horseback-riding tours of the region (☎04 92 83 63 94; www.chevalverdon.com. €20 per 90min., €39 per ½-day, €58 per day.) Reservations a few days in advance are recommended. Most adventure companies don’t accept credit cards, so bring cash. For those planning to spend a lot of time outdoors, bug repellent may also be a good idea, as flies and mosquitoes take up residence around the canyon at the same time that adventure-seekers do.