Luxe, calme, et volupté (luxury, calm, and sensuality) are what Matisse saw in St-Tropez (sehn-troh-pay; pop. 5400) and immortalized in his painting of the same name. Sixty-four years after he and other Neo-Impressionists, including Paul Signac, first brought fame to the fishing hamlet, Brigitte Bardot’s nude bathing scene in Et Dieu Créa la Femme (And God Created Woman) sealed the town’s celebrity status. Ever since, the former village has bewitched everyone from Hollywood stars to daytripping backpackers. Less ostentatious than Monaco but classier than larger coastal cities, St-Tropez sees fashionistas, yachtsmen, and ogling tourists rubbing elbows on the vieux port and in the narrow, shop-lined streets. Of course, this high-society playground’s charm comes with a price: restaurants, bars, the boat ride there, and even campsites are sure to make a significant dent in your wallet.
Reaching the “Jewel of the Riviera” requires some effort, as it lies well off the rail line. Getting to the small beaches and villages outside of town is also a hassle. The fastest and cheapest way to travel to the town itself is by boat. Beaches require a long walk or bike ride, rides on infrequent buses, or a T black Hummer limo with tinted windows and a bodyguard/driver.
St-Tropez’s glamorous lifestyle rises and falls with the seasons, warming up in May and June, sizzling from July to August, and winding down in September. Shops, museums, and nightlife have limited hours from September to June, but in July and August St-Tropez is active all day. The town is condensed and pedestrian-friendly. Much of the action is along the vieux port, which is packed with cafes and restaurants that transform into bars and lounges at night.
St-Tropez’s hotels are plentiful but incredibly expensive; the cheapest ones require reservations months in advance, particularly during July and August. A stay in St-Raphaël is easier on the wallet but forces visitors to limit their time and miss out on nightlife—or forfeit a night’s rest to party with the stars. The closest hostel is in Fréjus. Camping is the cheapest option close to St-Tropez, though prices remain shockingly high and no campgrounds are within walking distance. A ferry connects the campground at Port Grimaud with the peninsula, and shuttles run on limited schedules from the centre-ville to the smaller grounds flanking St-Tropez’s beaches. These campgrounds are popular and often full; book months in advance. Camping on the beach is prohibited.
St-Tropez’s vibrant restaurant scene stretches along the vieux port and behind the waterfront. Save pennies for club covers by grabbing pastries from the boulangeries near place des Lices. For fruits and vegetables, as well as an array of antiques, books, and clothing, try the grand marché on place des Lices (Tu and Sa 7:30am-1pm) or the morning market on place aux Herbes. There’s a Monoprix at 9 av. Général Leclerc. (☎04 94 97 07 94. Open July-Aug. daily 8am-10pm; Sept.-June M-Sa 8am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.) A SPAR, 16 bd. Vasserot, is on pl. des Lices. (☎04 94 97 02 20. Open Apr.-Sept. M-Sa 7:30am-7:30pm, Su 8am-7:30pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Sa 7:30am-1pm and 3:30-7:30pm, Su 8am-1pm and 4-7:30pm.)
St-Tropez’s pride and joy is its endless white sandy coastline; most of the “sights” here can be found in or out of bathing suits, as the young and beautiful—and the rest—come to the shore to show off their bronzed bodies. Marathon tanning is practically a sport in itself, but those who prefer a more active approach will find a series of watersport companies along the beach.
A navette leaves from pl. des Lices (schedules vary; ask the tourist office) for Les Salins (M-Sa 5 per day, last shuttle returns 6:10pm; €1), a rather secluded spot, and for Capon Pinet (M-Sa 4 per day, last shuttle returns 5:20pm; €1), the first stretch of the famous Pampelonne shoreline. Walking is another option. From the vieux port, head to the citadel and follow the path that passes Tour Portalet, Tour Vieille, and the cemetery. You’ll reach plage des Graniers, another decent swimming spot. Keep going until you wind up in Baie des Canebiers, home to Les Salins (2.8km, 50min.). Farther south, the trail leads to Capon Pinet, and the footpath starting there leads to plage Tahiti, halfway up a cliff (3.5km, 1hr.). Popular beach clubs are Coco Beach, Le Club 55, and Morea Plage. Lounge chairs at these clubs cost at least €15 per day; you’re better off walking along the coast to find a swimming spot, getting a glimpse of celebrity villas along the way. Sunbathers who miss the shuttle back to town can take a taxi from Pampelonne to the port (€25-30) or walk along route de Tahiti (3km). Many spots allow nude sunbathing; in St-Tropez, only tourists have tan lines.
Travelers generally don’t come to St-Tropez for the museums. Nevertheless, Le Musée de l’Annonciade, pl. Grammont, is a good break from a day of sun, sand, and shopping. This converted chapel houses Fauvist and Neo-Impressionist paintings by Bonnard, Matisse, and Signac as well as a number of Riviera images. Check out the modest bathing suits in images of St-Tropez from the 1930s and marvel at just how much things have changed in this one-time fishing village. (☎04 94 97 04 01. Open M and W-Su June-Sept. 10am-noon and 2-6pm; Oct.-May 10am-1pm and 4-7pm. €6, students €4.) The citadel, a 17th-century fortress above the port, contains rotating artistic and historical exhibits. (☎04 94 97 59 43. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-6:30pm; Oct. and Dec.-Mar. 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm. €4.50, students €3.)
St-Tropez celebrates its historic ties to the idle rich with yearly golf tournaments and sailing regattas, including the famed three-day Giraglia Rolex Cup in mid-June, which concludes with an open-sea race from St-Tropez all the way to Genoa, Italy. Every May 16-18, during Les Bravades, locals pay homage to their military past and patron saint with costumed parades. June 29 brings Saint-Peter’s Day and a torch-lit procession honoring the saint of fishermen. Pick up a copy of Manifestations from the tourist office for monthly festival info. The height of St-Tropez’s excess and exclusivity is its wild nightlife. Bars and clubs can be found in the same areas as restaurants around the port and surrounding place des Lices. For clubbing, dress to impress the strict bouncers.
Grimaud. Less ritzy but more endearing than the city, the villages of the St-Tropez Peninsula make excellent daytrips. With their stunning hilltop settings and unforgettable views, these gems are becoming prized real estate and major tourist destinations. The best of the peninsula is delightfully peaceful Grimaud (gree-moh), surrounded by the vineyards of 354 wine producers. The castle of Grimaud controlled the Gulf of St-Tropez—fittingly known as the “Gulf of Grimaud”—until the late 19th century. From its towers, you can look down on the medieval village itself and also get a choice view of the gulf. Few can resist the charm of Grimaud’s cobblestone lanes and fountain-filled places. Above the fairy-tale place Neuve, signs point to the 12th-century Romanesque Église Saint-Michel. (Open daily 9am-6pm. Sodetrav (☎04 94 97 88 51) sends buses from St-Tropez to Grimaud (30min., M-Sa 13 per day, €2.80). Alternatively, take the ferry to Port Grimaud (20min., every hr.) and catch the hourly petit train at the top of Prairies de la Mer campground. (☎04 94 54 09 09; €3.) The tourist office, 1 bd. des Aliziers, is just past the bus stop. ☎04 94 43 26 98; www.grimaud-provence.com. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 3-7pm, Su 10am-1pm; Sept. and Apr.-June M-Sa 9am-noon and 2:30-6pm; Oct.-Mar. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2:30-5:30pm.)
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview