Rīga (pop. 750,000) is the center of Latvia’s cultural and economic life, fusing a fascinating mix of Russian and Latvian influences. Medieval church spires dominate the Old Town, founded in 1201 by the German Bishop Albert, while early 20th-century Art Nouveau masterpieces line the city’s newer streets. The recent boom in tourism has transformed large sections of the city, particularly the Old Town, but it’s not hard to find unspoiled sections off the main drags.
The city is divided in half by Brīvības bulvāris, which leads from the outskirts of town to the Freedom Monument in the center, becomes Kaļķu iela, and passes through Vecrīga (Old Rīga). To reach Vecrīga from the train station, turn left on Marijas iela and then right on any of the small streets beyond the canal.
Make reservations well ahead during the high-season. Some tourist offices will arrange homestays and apartments for a small fee.
Twenty-four hour food and liquor stores are at Marijas 5 (Nelda) and Brīvības bul. 68. Centrālais Tirgus (Central Market), in Zeppelin hangars behind the bus station, is one of the largest markets in Europe. (Open M and Su 8am-4pm, Tu-Sa 8am-5pm.) One fabulous Russian import that has stuck around is tea: tearooms dot the city and are perfect for an afternoon or evening snack.
Freedom Monument And Environs. In the center of Vecrīga is the Freedom Monument (Brīvības Piemineklis), known as “Milda.” (At Raiņa bul. and Brīvības bul.) Continuing along Kaļķu iela to the river, you’ll see one of the few remaining Soviet monuments: the Latvian Riflemen Monument (Latviešu Strēlnieku Laukums) in the town square, honoring Lenin’s famous bodyguards. Rising behind the statue is the Occupation Museum (Okupācijas muzejs), Strēlnieku laukums 1, which vividly depicts the Soviet and Nazi occupations. (Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm. Donations accepted.) Next to the museum stands the House of the Blackheads (Melngalvju nams), Rātslaukums 7. Built in 1344 by a guild of unmarried merchants and then destroyed by the Nazis and Soviets, this unusual building was reconstructed in honor of Rīga’s 800th birthday. The structure houses a museum and an assembly hall, and occasionally hosts concerts. (Open May-Sept. Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, Oct.-Apr. Tu-Su 11am-5pm. 2Ls, students 1Ls. Cash only.)
Elsewhere In Vecrīga. Follow Kaļķu iela from the Freedom Monument and turn right on Šķūņu iela to reach Dome Square (Doma laukums) and the Cathedral Church of Rīga (Doma baznīca). The organ boasts over 6700 pipes. (Open daily June-Sept. 9am-6pm, Oct.-May 10am-5pm. Concerts in summer Su, W, F 7pm. Cathedral 2Ls, students 1.50Ls. Cash only.) Next to the cathedral is the Museum of Rīga’s History and Navigation (Rīgas Vēstures un Kugnie-cības Muzejs), Palasta iela 4. Established in 1773, this collection helped to rekindle Latvia’s cultural heritage after Soviet efforts to suppress it. (Open W-Su May-Sept. 10am-5pm; Oct.-Apr. 11am-5pm. 3Ls, students 1Ls. Tours in English, German, and Russian, 8Ls.) From the top of the 123m spire of St. Peter’s Church (Sv. Pētera baznīca), you can see much of the city. (On Skāmu iela, off Kaļķu iela. Open Tu-Su in summer 10am-5:30pm; low-season 10am-5pm. Ticket office closes for lunch. Church 0.50Ls. Tower 2Ls. Cash only.) The magnificent Neoclassical State Museum of Art (Latvjas nacionalais), Kr. Valdemāra iela 10A, has 18th- to 20th-century Latvian art and occasional concerts. (www.vmm.lv. Open Oct.-Mar. Tu-Su 11am-5pm; Apr.-Sept. Tu 11am-5pm, W 11am-7pm, Th-Su 11am-5pm. 3Ls, students 1.50Ls.) The newer areas of Rīga display Art Nouveau Jugendstil architecture; the style is most visible on Alberta iela, Elizabetes iela, and Strēlnieku laukums.
Bastejkalns. Rīga’s central park, surrounded by the Old City moat (Pīlsētas kanāls), has ruins of the old city walls. Across and around the canal, five slabs of stone stand as memorials to the events of January 20, 1991, when Soviet forces stormed the Interior Ministry on Raiņa bul. At the northern end of Bastejkalns, on K. Valdemāra iela, sits the National Theater, where Latvia first declared its independence on November 18, 1918. (Open daily 10am-7pm. Tickets 1-15Ls.)
The nightlife scene is centered in Vecrīga, where there are a variety of options for those who want to dance until dawn.
The commuter rail runs from Rīga to Jūrmala (30min., 2 per hr., 0.50Ls). Alternatively, take one of the frequent trains from Rīga to Sloka, and get off at the Majori stop (1.25Ls round-trip). Public buses (0.30Ls) and microbuses (0.50Ls) also connect Jūrmala’s towns.
Boardwalks and sun-bleached sand cover the narrow spit of Jūrmala. Visitors have come to this set of 13 small towns since the 19th century. The coastal towns between Bulduri and Dubulti are popular for sunning and swimming, but Jūrmala’s social center is Majori, where trendy folk play volleyball or wander Jomas iela, a pedestrian street lined with cafes and shops. Bicycles are popular; rent one at Picnic , 21 Melluzu Prosp. (☎6776 7899. 2Ls per hr., 10Ls per day.)
Sue’s Asia , Jomas iela 74, offers Chinese, Indian, and Thai cuisine. Waitresses in saris serve the same fine fare that scored Rīga’s branch a spot on Condé Nast ’s list of the world’s 100 best restaurants. (☎775 5900. Entrees 3-12Ls. Open daily noon-midnight. MC/V.) Head to Dukats , Dubulti, Baznicas 12/14, for salads and cutlets under 3Ls. Look for the yellow “Bistro” sign. From the beach, exit at Stacija Dubulti. Don’t forget to grab a delicious pastry on your way out. (☎776 0782. Open daily 8am-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.)
There are two tourist offices in Majori. The first, Lienes iela 5, by the train station, is run by the City Council and has free maps. Look for the white “i” on a green background. (☎714 7900; www.jurmala.lv. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-3pm.) The other, Jomas iela 42, is privately owned and offers similar services. Both offices can arrange accommodations at no extra charge. (☎776 4276; jurmalainfo@bkc.lv. Open in summer M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 1-7pm; in winter M-F 9am-7pm. Cash only.) Postal Code: LV-2105.
Trains run from Rīga on the Rīga-Lugaži commuter rail line (1hr., 9 per day, 0.97Ls). From the station, walk up Raiņa iela to the town center. Raiņa iela becomes Gaujas iela. After the bridge, the road turns into Turaidas iela and passes Turaida Castle. Buses run from Rīga hourly (1Ls). A bus labeled “ Turaida ” runs directly to Turaida Castle (7 per day, 0.30Ls).
The Knights of the Sword, Germanic crusaders who Christianized much of Latvia in the 13th century, made Segewald—modern-day Sigulda (pop. 10,000)—their base of operations. Today the Gauja National Park Administration has its headquarters in this town of well-tended gardens and hilly streets. 50km from Rīga, the area offers biking, bobsledding, bungee-jumping, horseback riding, hot-air ballooning, rafting, and skiing. Makars Tourism Agency, Peldu 1, arranges excursions and rents boats and camping equipment. (☎2924 4948; www.makars.lv.) The area’s main sights lie along a 5km stretch of road. Farthest from town are the restored brick fortifications of the Turaida Castle Complex (Turaidas Muzejrezervats), Turaidas iela 10, visible throughout the Gauja Valley; climb the staircase in the main tower for a view of a carpet-like forest and a TV tower or two. (Tower open daily 9am-10pm. Admission free with ticket from Turaidas Museum Reserve. 3Ls, students 1Ls. Cash only.) Take Turaidas iela back down the hill to reach the famous caves of Sigulda. Inscriptions and coats of arms from as early as the 16th century cover the chiseled mouth of Gutman’s Cave (Gūtmaņa ala). On a ridge to the right of Gaujas iela, on the same side of the river as town, is the Sigulda Dome palace, behind which lie the ruins of Sigulda Castle (Siguldas pilsdrupas). For a quick bite, head to the deli in supermarket Elvi , Vidus iela 1, where you can fill up on 2-3Ls. (Open daily 8am-11pm.)
From the train station, 1km along Raiņa iela is the Gauja National Park Visitor Centre, Baznicas 7. (☎6780 0388; www.gnp.gov.lv. Open in summer M 9:30am-5pm, Tu-Su 9:30am-7pm; in winter daily 10am-4pm.) The tourist information center is at Valdemara 1a (open daily 9am-7pm). Postal Code: LV-2150.
Cēsis is served by infrequent trains from Rīga via Sigulda (1-2hr., 1 per 4hr., 1.50Ls). Buses are more convenient (2hr., 2 per hr., 1.80Ls).
Sprawling medieval ruins and Cēsu, the local brew, make Cēsis (TSEY-sis; pop. 18,400) the classic Latvian town. Crusading Germans built the famous Cēsis Castle in 1209. Explore the old castle’s dark interior with a hard-hat and your very own lantern. At the garden entrance, take a moment to view the fallen Lenin statue, complete with a wooden coffin. (☎412 1815. Open M-Th and Su 10am-7pm, F-Sa 10am-8pm. 2Ls, students 1Ls. Cash only.)
The tourist office, Pils laukums 1, across from the castle, offers free maps, has Internet (0.30Ls per 10min.), and arranges private rooms for a 1Ls fee. (☎412 1815; www.tourism.cesis.lv. Open in summer M and Su 9am-5pm, Tu-Sa 9am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Postal Code: LV-4101.
Taking a bus is the most convenient way to travel to Ventspils. Buses run between Ventspils and Kuldiga (7 per day, 1.40Ls), Leipaja (8 per day, 2-4Ls), and Rīga (17 per day, 4Ls).
The colorful, cobblestone streets and perfectly manicured gardens of Ventspils (pop. 43,800) hardly convey the city’s industrial past. Once a base for Russian oil exports, this wealthy port city is now home to the cleanest, most beautiful coastlines in Latvia. Stroll on the pebbled shore at Blue Flag Beach, internationally recognized for high water safety and cleanliness. Nearby, the Seaside Open Air Museum, Rinka iela 2, showcases the history of fishing in Ventspils, including an extensive exhibition of boats and a forest path dotted with the largest anchor collection in the world. (☎6362 4467. Open May-Oct. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Apr. M-F 11am-5pm. 1Ls, students 0.40Ls.) The Livonian Order Castle, Jana iela 17, is one of the oldest standing medieval fortresses. View tools, jewelry, and coins while the sounds of recorded dog barks and trumpets carry on in the background. Thankfully, silence reigns in the contemporary art displays on the upper floors. (☎6362 2031; www.ventspilsmuzejs.lv. 1.50Ls, students 0.75Ls.)
The Guesthouse at Meza Street , Annas iela 5, has enormous pasta plates (2-5Ls), salads, and excellent coffee. (☎6362 3434. Open daily 11am-11pm. MC/V.)
The tourist information center is at Darza iela 6. (☎362 2263; www.tourism.ventspils.lv. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-3pm.) The post office is at Platā iela 8. (Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-4pm.) Postal Code: LV-3601.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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