Zagreb Overview

More than the stopover en route to the Adriatic coast, Croatia’s capital and largest city (pop. 779,000) possesses the grand architecture, wide boulevards, and sprawling parks of a major European city. In the old city center, smartly-dressed Zagrebčani outnumber visitors as both enjoy the sights and smells of outdoor cafes, flower markets, and fresh produce stalls. With its welcoming, English-speaking inhabitants, growing economy, impressive cultural offerings, and unspoiled surroundings, Zagreb is an enjoyable, laid-back, and worthwhile alternative to the sun-splattered coast.

Trains: Leave the Glavni Kolodvor, Trg Kralja Tomislava 12 (☎060 333 444, international info ☎378 2583; www.hznet.hr; AmEx/MC/V) for: Ljubljana, SLN (2 hr., 8 per day; 91kn, round-trip 235kn); Rijeka (4-6 hr., 3 per day, 105kn); Split (6-9 hr., 5 per day, 90kn); Budapest, HUN (7hr., 3 per day, 225kn); Venice, ITA (6hr., 1 per day, 320kn); Vienna, AUT (6hr., 2 per day, 355kn); Zurich, SWI (14hr., 1 per day, 647kn). There are no trains to Dubrovnik. To get to the station, take tram 2, 4, 6, 9, or 13 to the Glavni Kolodvor stop. From the main square (Trg Jelačića), take either tram 6 (toward Sopot) or tram 13 (toward Tržnica Gorica); the train station is two stops away. There are printed timetables (though not in English) for both domestic and international trains. The information booths’ English-speaking staff is an extremely helpful resource.
Trams: The tram network, Zagreb Electric Tram, or ZET, covers most of the city and is the most convenient form of local transportation (☎01 356 1555; www.zet.hr). Trams are denoted by number (1-17) and run from 4am-11:20pm. Night trams run from 11:45pm-3:45am, but are unreliable. Buy tickets at newsstands or post offices (8kn) or from the driver (10kn). Day pass 25kn, under 6 free. Upon boarding, punch tickets in the boxes near the tram doors to avoid fines.
Buses: Leaving from the Autobusni Kolodvor, Avenija M. Držića bb (☎060 313 333; information and reservations from abroad ☎01 611 2789; www.akz.hr, click on “Vozni red” to search the timetables). Buses are often more efficient than trains. Trams 2, 5, 6, 7, and 8 stop at Autobusni Kolovdor. From Trg Jelačića, take tram 6 in the direction of Sopot; the bus station is six stops away. The ticketing area is upstairs. Timetables are displayed on screen in the main ticketing area and are also available online. Buses leave for: Dubrovnik (11hr., 8 per day, 125-253kn); Plitvice (2hr., 12 per day, 72-80kn); Pula (4hr., 17 per day, 162-216kn); Rijeka (3hr., 23 per day, 126-166kn); Split (7-9hr.; 38 per day, multiple buses every hour between 6am-midnight; 171-198kn); Varaždin (1.¾hr., 25 per day, 69kn); Frankfurt, GER (15hr., 2 per day, 660kn); Ljubljana, SLN (2½hr., 1 per day, 90kn); Vienna, AUT (7hr., 2 per day, 227kn). Large backpacks cost 7kn extra. The ticketing hall is upstairs; #14 is an information window staffed with English-speaking attendants. Luggage storage can be found in the garderoba up the staircase to the right of the ticketing hall (24hr.; 1.20kn per hr., 2.30kn per hr. for bags over 33 lbs.) Restrooms (3kn) are also upstairs from the ticketing hall in the waiting lounge.

Practical Information

Tourist Offices: The Tourist Information Center (TIC), Trg Jelačića 11, conveniently located in the main square, is a great resource for any traveler. There you’ll find helpful attendants, free maps, and pamphlets the Zagreb Info A-Z, Zagreb in Your Pocket, and Events and Performances. Open M-F 8:30am-8pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su and holidays 10am-2pm. (☎01 481 4051; www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr.) They also sell a Zagreb Card which covers all bus and tram rides and provides discounts in restaurants and museums (☎01 481 4052; www.zagrebcard.fivestars.hr. Valid for 1 or 3 days; 60/90kn.)
Internet: Get online at Sublink, Ulica Nikole Tesle (Teslina) 12 (☎481 9993; www.sublink.hr), where you’ll find a friendly and welcoming English-speaking staff, cheap and fast connections, and printing and scanning services. (Open M-Sa 9am-10pm, Su and holidays 3pm-10pm. 0.245kn per min., 14.70kn per hr. 10% discount with ISIC/EURO under 26 card.) Postal Code: 10000.

Accommodations

Fulir Hostel, (☎01 483 0882; www.fulir-hostel.com), right outside of Zagreb’s main square. Laidback hostel steps away from many of Zagreb’s sights and nightlife. Communal kitchen. Linens and lockers included. Free Internet; Wi-Fi available. Mar.-Sept. 130kn per night, Oct.-Feb. 100kn per night.
Ravnice Youth Hostel, 1 Ravnice 38d (☎01 233 2325; www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr). Bright, clean, colorful rooms. Take tram 11 or 12 from Trg Jelačica, 4 from the train station, or 7 from the bus station to Dubrava or Dubec. The unmarked Ravnice stop is two stops past football stadium “Dinamo.” Turn right on Ravnice St. and the hostel is on the second street on the left; look for a white sign marked “hostel.” Laundry 50kn. Internet 16kn per hr. Reception 9am-10pm. Check-out noon. Dorms 125kn. Cash only.
Evistas, Augusta Senoe 28 (☎01 483 9554), right outside of Zagreb’s main square. When hostels are full, try a private room at this hotel, albeit less centrally located. Call ahead. Open M-F 9am-1:30pm and 3-8pm, Sa 9:30am-5pm.

Food

Zvijezda Kamanjo, Nova Ves 84 (☎01 466 7171). Serves up traditional Croatian cuisine on a peaceful, private outdoor patio. From Trg Jelačića, follow Kaptol past the Cathedral until it turns into Nova Ves (20min. walk). Try the delicious beef stew (Dalmatinska pašticada) with gnocchi—a Croatian specialty. Entrees 35-80kn. Open daily noon-11pm.
VIP, Trg P. Preradovića 5 (☎01 483 0089; www.viprestoran.com). Head to the western side of the square and look for the white umbrellas. This lively bistro and internet cafe offers delectable Italian fare next to the flower market. Enjoy drinks al fresco with the locals, or pizza, pasta, and lasagna from 35-60kn. Internet connection 15kn per hr. Open 8am-11pm.
Dolac, behind Trg Jelačića in Gornji Grad (Upper Town), along Pod Zidom. Open-air market selling a variety of goods. Open M-Sa 6am-3pm, Su 6am-1pm. Cash only.

Sights And Museums

Zagreb is best seen on foot. Climb any of the streets extending north from Trg Jelačića to reach the historical Gornji Grad (Upper Town). From Trg Jelačića, take Ilica, then turn right on Tomićeva.

Cathedral Of The Assumption. The Cathedral of the Assumption (Katredrala Marijina Uznesnja), known simply as “the Cathedral,” has graced Zagreb since the late 11th century. It’s stunning during the day and enchanting when illuminated at night. (Kaptol 1. Open daily 10am-5pm. Services M-Sa 7, 8, 9am, 6pm; Su 7, 8, 9, 10, 11:30am, 6pm. Free.) Mirogoj Cemetery, Croatia’s largest, just north of the Cathedral, contains 12 cream-colored towers, a garden with cypress trees, and touching epitaphs that tell the troubled history of the regions. (Take the 106 “Mirogoj” bus from Kaptol in front of the Cathedral; 8min., 4 per hr. Open M-F 6am-8pm, Su 7:30am-6pm. No photography. Free). Built in the 13th century, the Stone Gate, the last of the four original gateways to the city, remains a site to stop to pray.

Ethnographic Museum. The Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej), across the street from the Mimara, displays artifacts from 19th- and 20th-century Croatian voyages to Africa, Asia, and South America, as well as a mix of traditional costumes, etchings and architecture native to Croatia. (Mažuranicev Trg 14. ☎01 482 6220; www.etnografski-muzej.hr. English-language captions. Open Tu-Th 10am-6pm, F-Su 10am-1pm. 15kn, students and over 60 10kn; Th free. Cash only.)

Lotrščak Tower. The 13th-century Lotrščak Tower, part of the original city wall, offers excited visitors the most breathtaking panoramic views of Zagreb. (At the corner of Strossmayerovo and Dverce, right at the top of the funicular. Open Mar.-Nov. Tu-Su 11am-7pm. 10kn, students 5kn.)

Festivals And Nightlife

In June, Zagreb’s streets burst into life with performances for the annual Zagreb street festival Cest is d’Best (“The Streets are the Best,”) and the Eurokaz International Festival of New Theatre (late June-early July). The huge International Puppet Festival occurs from late August to early September. In mid-December, locals flock to the colorful Christmas Fair for presents and holiday cheer

With a variety of clubs at Lake Jarun and many relaxed sidewalk cafes and bars lining lovely Tkalčićeva, Zagreb has an exceptional nightlife scene.

Aquarius, Mateja Ljubeka bb (☎01 364 0231. www.aquarius.hr), on Lake Jarun. Take tram #17 to Srednjaci, the third unmarked stop after Studenski dom S. Radic. Cross the street; once at the lake, turn left and continue along the boardwalk; Aquarius is the last building. Dance and swim at this lakeside cafe/club, Zagreb’s hottest nightspot, with a diverse crowd and great music selection. Cafe open daily 9am-9pm. Club open M-F and Su 10pm-4am, Sa 10pm-6am. Cover 30-40kn. Cash only.
KSET, Unska 3 (☎01 612 9999). For tastes that veer toward the alternative, join the locals flocking to edgy KSET for an eclectic mix of music,which, depending on the night, ranges from jazz to punk to electronic. Open M-F 8-11:45pm, Sa 9pm-3am.
Khala, Nova Ves 17 (☎01 486 0241), is a chic but surprisingly affordable wine bar and peaceful lounge that morphs into a house music hotspot on the weekends. Open M-Th 8am-1am, F-Su 8am-4am. Cash only.