In 1323, an iron wolf on the top of Gediminas’s Hill is said to have appeared to the Grand Duke in a dream and inspired him to found the city. The hill remains a good vantage point to take in the breadth of Lithuania’s capital, which has turned its gaze resolutely toward modernity. The decaying ruins in the city are steadily giving way to stucco facades, Prada storefronts, and refurbished Baroque, Gothic, and Neoclassical architecture—reminders that Vilnius flourished for centuries before WWII and the grip of Soviet rule. Vilnius was chosen as one of the European Union’s 2009 European Capitals of Culture.
Geležinkelio runs east from the train and bus stations to Aušros Vartų, which leads downhill through the Gates of Dawn (Aušros Vartai) and into the Old Town (Senamiestis). Heading north, Aušros Vartų becomes Didžioji and then Pilies before reaching the base of Gediminas Hill. On the hill, the Gediminas Tower of the Higher Castle presides over Cathedral Square (Aikštė) and the banks of the River Neris. Gedimino, the main commercial artery, runs west from Aikštė.
Vilnius has a surprising number of youth hostels and inexpensive hotels. Reserve ahead, especially in the summer months.
Traditional blynai (pancakes) stuffed with meat or cheese are a great option for budget travelers. Iki supermarkets stock both local and Western brands. (Branch at Sodu 22. Open daily 8am-10pm.)
Senamiestis. Facing the Old Town or Senamiestis, walk though the Gates of Dawn (Aušros Vartai) and enter the first door on the right to ascend worn steps to the 17th-century Gates of Dawn Chapel (Aušros Vartai Koplyčia). A few steps down Auros Vartų, a gateway leads to the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Šv. Dvasios bažnyčia), home to the remains of Saints Anthony, John, and Eustachio, beloved martyrs of Lithuania. Heading north, the street merges with Pilies and leads to Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas), at Pilies and Šv. Jono. Founded in 1579, the university is the oldest in Eastern Europe. North on Pilies is Cathedral Square (Katedros Aikštė); its cathedral contains the Chapel of St. Casimir (v. Kazimiero koplyčia) and the royal mausoleum. Take the funicular up the hill to Gediminas Tower for a great view. Europe’s most unexpected monument stands 50km west of the Old Town: a 4m steel shaft topped with a bust of the late freak rock legend Frank Zappa against a backdrop of wall graffiti. Zappa had no connection to Lithuania, but apparently he had fans there. (Off Pylimo, between Kalinausko 1 and 3, on the right side of a parking lot.)
Old Jewish Quarter And Paneriai Memorial. At the start of WWII, Vilnius had a thriving Jewish community of 100,000 (in a city of 230,000). Nazis left just 6000 survivors, and the synagogue at Pylimo 39 is the only of the former 105 synagogues still standing. The Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum of Lithuania commemorates the city’s Jewish heritage, providing an honest account of Lithuanians’ persecution of their Jewish neighbors on the eve of the war. (Pylimo 4. ☎05 262 9666; www.jmuseum.lt. Open M-Th 10am-5pm, F 10am-2pm. Donations requested.) The Paneriai Memorial marks the spot in a forest where Nazis killed and buried 100,000 Lithuanians—70,000 of them Jews. The memorials are near pits that served as mass graves. (Take the train to Kaunas from Platform 1, and get off at Paneriai, the first stop. 10min., but keep in mind trains may be spaced a few hours apart. 2.40Lt. round trip. From the station, walk in the direction of the train for about 20min. Free.)
Museum Of Genocide Victims. The horrors of the Soviet regime are exposed at this former KGB headquarters, which served as a Gestapo outpost during WWII. The basement has isolation rooms, torture chambers, and an execution cell, left untouched. With little in the way of touristy gimmicks, this grim building is chilling and memorable. (Aukv 2a. Turn left after Gedimino 40, the building inscribed with names of KGB victims. ☎05 249 6264. Open every day 10am-5pm. English captions. Museum 4Lt; W free Sept.-June. 50% discount for students June-Sept. Guided tours in Lithuanian 15Lt, in English or Russian 30Lt. English-language audio tour 8Lt.)
Trakai Castle. Built in the 14th century, Trakai Castle lies on an island 28km west of Vilnius and once served as a residence for the Grand Dukes of Lithuania. The palace, dungeon, and four defense towers are wonderfully preserved, and the castle currently displays priceless collections of porcelain, coins, weaponry, and artifacts. (Buses leave for Trakai from Vilnius about every 30min. from platforms 5 and 6. 3.2Lt; pay on the bus. From Trakai station, walk toward the water in the direction that the bus was going and turn off the road onto a lakeside path after Karaimų 13. Open daily 10am-6:45pm. Closed M in winter. 12Lt, students 5Lt.)
The National Philharmonic’s Vilnius Festival starts in late May or early June (www.filharmonija.lt). Check Vilnius in Your Pocket and Exploring Vilnius, distributed at hotels, or the Lithuanian-language morning paper Lietuvos Rytas for event or festival listings. For info on GLBT nightlife, visit www.gayline.lt.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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