Ljubljana Overview

The average traveler only stops in Ljubljana (loob-lee-AH-na; pop. 275,000) for an hour en route from Venice to Zagreb, but those who stay longer become enchanted by Slovenia’s lively capital city. Bridges guarded by D dragons span the graceful canals, while street performances liven up summer nights. Its fortified castles, frescoed churches, and modern high-rises, reveals the city’s richly layered history. It has persevered through medieval existence and communism and soon aspires to be the seat of the EU presidency.

Trains: Trg OF 6 (☎01 291 3332). To: Bled (1hr., 12 per day, €4.12); Koper (2hr., 3 per day, €9); Budapest, HUN (9hr., 6 per day, €29); Sarajevo, BOS (11hr., 3 per day, €840) via Zagreb, CRO (2hr., 8 per day, €12); Venice, ITA (5hr., 5 per day, €25).
Buses: Trg OF 4 (☎01 090 4230; www.ap-ljubljana.si). To: Bled (1hr., hourly until 9pm, €6.40); Koper (2hr., 5-10 per day, €12); Maribor (3hr., 10 per day, €12); Zagreb, CRO (3hr., 1 per day, €14).
Public Transportation: Buses run until 10:30pm. Drop €1 (exact change only) in the box beside the driver or buy cheaper €0.80 žetoni (tickets) at post offices, kiosks, or the main bus terminal. Day passes (€3.80) sold at Ljubljanski Potniški Promet, Celovška c. 160 (☎01 582 2426 or ☎01 205 6045). Open M-F 6:45am-7pm, Sa 6:45am-1pm. Pick up a bus map at the Tourist Information Center (TIC).

Orientation And Practical Information

The train and bus stations are side-by-side on Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (Trg OF or OF Sq.). To reach the center, turn right on Masarykova and left on Miklošičeva c.; continue to Prešernov trg, the main square. After crossing the Tromostovje (Triple Bridge), you’ll see Stare Miasto at the base of Castle Hill. The tourist office is on the left at the corner of Stritarjeva and Adamič-Lundrovo nab.

Tourist Office: Tourist Information Center (TIC), Stritarjeva 1 (☎01 306 1215, 24hr. English-language info ☎090 939 881; www.ljubljana.si). Helpful staff speak excellent English. Pick up free maps and the free, useful Ljubljana from A to Z. Open daily June-Sept. 8am-10pm; Oct.-May 9am-7pm. Box office in TIC open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-1pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Embassies: Australia, Durajska c. 50 (☎01 588 3108). Open M-F 9am-1pm. Canada, Durajska c. 22 (☎01 430 3570). Open M-F 9am-1pm. Ireland, Poljanski nasip 6 (☎01 300 8970). Open M-F 9am-noon. UK, Trg Republike 3 (☎01 200 3910). Open M-F 9am-noon. US, Prešernova 31 (☎01 200 5500). Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-4pm.
Currency Exchange: Menjalnice (private exchange) booths abound. Ljubljanska banka branches throughout town exchange currency for no commission and cash traveler’s checks for a 1.5% commission. Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-7pm, Sa 9am-noon.
Luggage Storage: Garderoba (lockers) at train station. Luggage €2-3 per day.
Pharmacy: Lekarna Mikloišič, Miklošičeva 24. Open 7:30am-5:30pm most days, 7:30am-1pm on Sat. (☎01 230 6252).
Internet: Most hostels in town offer free Internet. Cyber Cafe Xplorer, Petkovško nab. 23 (☎01 430 1991; www.sisky.com), has Wi-Fi. €2.50 per 30min., students €2.38. 20% discount 10am-noon. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa-Su 2-10pm.
Post Office: Trg OF 5 (☎01 433 0605). Open M-F 7am-midnight, Sa 7am-6pm, Su 9am-noon. Poste Restante, Slovenska 32 (☎01 426 4668), atizročitev pošiljk (outgoing mail) counter. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 7am-1pm. Postal Code: 1000.

Accommodations

In the busier months of July and August, Hostelling International Slovenia (PZS; ☎01 231 2156) helps travelers easily find accommodations. The TIC finds private rooms (singles €27-45; doubles €40-75). There is a daily tourist tax (€0.62-1.25) at all establishments.

Fluxus, Tomšičeva 4 (☎01 251 5760; www.fluxus-hostel.com). In addition to having a strategic main square location and funky decor, this small gem offers travelers a real sense of community. 1 bath for 16 beds. Kitchen and laundry. Free Internet and printer. Reception 24hr. Reserve ahead. Dorms €21; double €63. Cash only.
Hotel/Hostel Park, Tabor 9 (☎01 300 2500; www.hotelpark.si). The large size and central location of Hotel/Hostel Park makes finding a room easy even if booking on short notice. Rooms are cleaned daily. Towels and sheets included. Free Internet. Breakfast provided for hotel guests only. Dorms €18.
Celica, Metelkova 8 (☎01 230 9700; www.hostelcelica.com). With your back to the train station, walk left down Masarykova, then right on Metelkova; blue signs lead the way. Local and foreign artists transformed this former prison into modern art. Bar, cafe, free Internet, and cultural arts programs. Breakfast included. Reception 24hr. Reserve ahead. Dorms €16-20; cells €18-25. Cash-only deposit €10 per person. MC/V.
Ljubljana Resort: Hotel and Camping, Dunajska 270 (☎01 568 3913; www.ljubljanaresort.si). Take bus #6 or 8 to Ježica. From bus stop, continue down road, turn right into the resort’s long drive way, and follow signs. Both campground and spacious rooms with TVs and showers are available. Reception 24hr. Flexible check out 1pm. Pool and snack bar. Reservations recommended. June 20-Aug. 20 camping €13 per person; Aug. 21-June 19 €9. Singles €90-110; doubles €130-150. Tourist tax €1.02. MC/V.

Food

Maximarket, Trg Republike 1, has a Mercator in the basement. (Open M-Th 9am-8pm, F 9am-10pm, Sa 8am-3pm.) There is an open-air market next to St. Nicholas’s Cathedral. (Open June-Aug. M-Sa 6am-6pm; Sept.-May 6am-4pm.)

Zvezda Cafe, Wolfova 14 (☎01 421 9090). This small cafe has fantastic gelato with flavors like chocolate hazelnut and jaffa. Even Mozart has his own flavor, based on chocolates with pistachio candies from Salzburg (€2-3). Sip one of the 38 specialty teas (€2), or try a cake or sandwich. Cash only for gelato, MC/V in cafe.
POMF, 40 Trubarjeva cesta (☎04 186 8582). This small restaurant features indoor and outdoor seating and a variety of flavorful Slovenian favorites for low prices. Vegetarian options available. Entrees €2-6. Open M-Th 10am-11pm, F 10am-noon, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-11pm. MC/V.
Cafe Romeo, Stari trg 6. Popular with local hipsters, this is one of the few places in town that serves food on Su. Riverside outdoor seating supplements a fashionable black-and-red leather interior. Snack-oriented menu features burritos (€4.50), nachos (€3.50), and dessert crepes (€3.50). Open daily 10am-1am. Kitchen open M-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11am-11pm. Cash only.

Sights

A good way to see the sights is a walking tour, which departs from the rotovž (city hall), Mestni trg 1. (2hr. July-Aug. M-F 10am, Su 11am; May-Sept. daily 10am; Oct.-Apr. F-Su 11am. €10. Buy tickets at the tour or at the TIC.)

Saint Nicholas’ Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaia). This dazzling cathedral’s beautifully preserved frescoes are a must-see. (Dolničarjeva 1. ☎01 231 0684. Open daily 6am-noon and 3-7pm. Free.)

National Museum (Narodni Musei). Contains exhibits on archaeology, culture, and local history from the prehistoric era to the present. Upstairs, the Natural History Museum features an impressive taxidermy collection. (Muzejska 1. ☎01 241 4400. Open M-W, F, and Su 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm. National Museum and National History Museum each €3, students €2. Both €4/3. 1st Su of month free.)

D Dragon Bridge (Zmajski Most). Head to Vodnikov trg, where this famous dragon-guarded bridge stretches across the Ljubljanica River.

Prešernov Trg . Close to city hall, down Stritarjeva, and across the Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) is the central square of Ljubljana, with its pink 17th-century Franciscan church . (Prešernov trg 4. ☎01 242 9300. Free.)

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad). The narrow Studentovska leads uphill to the Ljubljana Castle, which has a breathtaking view. A trolley leaves every hour from 9am to 7pm for €3 from Stritarjeva ul. near the tourist office. However, the walk is only 10min. and offers more views. (Grajska planota 1. ☎01 232 9994. Open daily May-Oct. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Apr. 10am-6pm. Access to the top tour and 20min. presentations are offered every 30min. 9am-9pm. €3.)