Lviv (Львів) Overview

Lviv’s star is rising. While Kyiv is the political and economic capital of Ukraine, many consider Lviv (pop. 1,000,000) to be the cultural and patriotic center of the country. Lviv’s cobblestone streets and picturesque churches, packed with architecture of every imaginable style, still manage to feel lived-in rather than on display. The modern city, which stretches beyond the historic center, is bustling, chock-full of cafes, and close to the beautiful Carpathian mountains

Climb up the   High Castle Hill (Високий Замок; Vysokyy Zamok), the former site of the Galician King’s Palace, for a stunning panoramic view of Lviv. Ploshcha Rynok, the historic market square, is surrounded by richly decorated homes and numerous Baroque churches. The History Museum (сториний Музей; Istorichnyy Muzey) complex is at pl. Rynok #4, 6, and 24. Exhibits at #4 recount the history of Ukraine’s struggle for liberation during WWI and WWII; some are accompanied by English translations. (☎80322 72 06 71. Open Mar.-Nov. M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-6pm, Dec.-Feb. M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-5pm. Each museum 3-7hv, some student discounts.) Walk up to the end of vul. Staroyevreiska (Old Jewish St.), and on your left at Arsenalna Square you’ll see the ruins of the 16th-century Golden Rose Synagogue, a center of Jewish culture before its destruction by the Nazis. A number of new hostels are opening up in Lviv to accommodate the city’s growing tourism industry. Lviv Backpackers’ Hostel, Kolyaretskoho 37, Apt. 2 (Koтляpeцькoго), offers more amenities than most backpackers will ever need, among them a hot tub, free Wi-Fi, a patio, satellite TV, and a DVD collection. Book in advance.(☎80322 37 20 53. English spoken. Dorms US$16-22; special offers available. AmEx/MC/V.)   Veronika (Веронка), pr. Shevchenka Prospect 21, serves pastries (5hv) and mouth-watering cakes (10-24hv) in its upstairs cafe, as well as classic European dishes (35-175hv) in the small, dark restaurant downstairs. (☎80322 97 81 28. Open daily 10am-11pm. MC/V.) For nightlife, check out the expansive Millennium, vul. Chornovola 2. (☎80322 40 35 91. Beer 5hv. Cover up to 50hv. Open Tu-Su 9pm-4am.)

Trains go from pl. Vokzalna (Вокзальна) to: Kyiv (9hr., 3 per day, 50-100hv); Odessa (12hr., 1 per day, 60-110hv); Budapest, HUN (13hr., 1 per day, 400hv); Krakow, POL (8hr., 1 per day, 250hv); Moscow, RUS (25hr., 3 per day, 250hv); Prague, CZR (32hr., 1 per day, 400hv); Warsaw, POL (14hr., every other day, 400hv). Tickets can be bought at the railway kasa at Hnatyuka 20. (☎80322 26 11 76. Open M-Sa 8am-2pm and 3-8pm, Su 8am-2pm and 3-6pm.) Taxis from the train station into town cost about 25hv. Buses run from the main station, vul. Stryyska 189 (Стрийська; ☎294 9817); to Krakow, POL (10hr., 1 per day, 103hv) and Warsaw, POL (10hr., 3 per day, 150hv). Trolleys in town cost 0.50hv. The Lviv Tourist Info Center, vul. Pidvalna 3, has a helpful English-speaking staff. (☎80322 97 57 51; www.tourism.lviv.ua. Open M-F 10am-6pm.) Internet Club, vul. Dudaeva 12, offers Internet and international calling at reasonable rates. (☎80322 72 27 38; www.ic.lviv.ua. Open 24hr. Internet 4hv per hr.) Postal Code: 79000.