Maribor Overview

Surrounded by the wine-growing Piramida Hill, the slow Drava River, and the adventuresome ski haven of Pohorje, Maribor (MAHR-ee-bohr; pop. 110,000) brims with youthful energy, despite its deep history. Although second in size to Ljubljana, this 700-year-old university town exudes a provincial feel.

Transportation. From the train station, Partizanska c. 50 (☎02 292 2100), trains run to Ljubljana (2½ hr., 12 per day; €7.47-8.91) and Ptuj (1hr., 9 per day, €2.71). The bus station, Mlinska 1, sends buses to Ljubljana (2½-3hr., 10 per day, €12) and Ptuj (40min., 2 per hr. until 9pm, €3.60).

Orientation And Practical Information. The majority of Maribor’s sights lie in the city center, on the north shore of the Drava River; this makes it easy to explore the town by foot. Pick up a map from the train station or at the tourist office on Partizanska c. 6a. It’s stocked with maps and brochures, and staff will help you book the cheapest sleeping option. (☎02 234 6611; www.maribor-tourism.si. Rooms €25-35. 90min. city tours W and F 10am, Su 11am; €5. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9am-noon.) From the train station, turn left and follow Partizanska past the large Franciscan Church of Saint Mary to Grajski trg, where you’ll see the Florian Column. Turn left down Vetrinska, and then turn right on Koroska c. to reach Glavni trg. From the main bus station turn right on Mlinska, follow it to Partizanska, and take a left. Try not to arrive on a Sunday; few businesses are open.

Banka Koper, located in the mall complex, Ulica Vita Kraigherja 5, has a 24hr. cash machine that accepts MC/V. The exchange office is open M-F 8am-4pm. Next door, the post office is open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-noon. For free Internet, head to Kibla Multimedia Center, ul. Kneza Koclja 9. Enter Narodni Dom and go through the large art space on the left (☎02 229 4012; www.kibla.org. Open July 15-Aug 15). The main square near the river, Glavni Trg, has Wi-Fi.

Accommodations And Food. Across the river from the old town, about a 15 minute walk from the center lays Dijaški Dom (HI) , 26 Junij, Železnikova 12. From the local bus station in front of the train staion, take bus #3 (Brezje) to the “Pokopališče” stop. Cross the street and walk a few paces to the right, then take the first left and follow the road as it curves. Past the Mercator supermarket, you’ll see a building with “12” painted on the side. Tidy rooms and quiet environs make this the best deal in town. (☎02 480 1710. Free Internet. Open June 25-Aug. 25. Singles €15, doubles €25.) Lollipop Hostel   Maistrova ul. 17, is a very small, homey hostel conveniently located in the center. The staff also offers tours of the city. (☎02 024 3160. Dorms €20. Free Wi-Fi. Breakfast included.) For traditional fare, head towards the old town. Toti Rotov , Glavni trg 14, has savory set meals (€7) and a variety of international dishes—all served in a lovely 16th century townhouse. (☎02 228 7650; Entrees €3-15. Open M-Th 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-2pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Sights. As an important trade post between Vienna and the Adriatic, Maribor saw lots of international traffic during the middle ages. With a keen eye, observers can spot remnants of its complicated history. At various times, the locals lived underneath the Romans, Franciscan monks, the Hapsburgs, the Third Reich, communism, and finally capitalism. Starting from the tourist office, glance down Partizanska/Slovenska c., the key merchant road beginning in the Middle Ages. Next, behold the Franciscan Church, Maribor’s one and only basilica. Fun fact: the bells which ring every hour were transformed into cannons during both world wars. Continuing down Partizanska c., enter the old town and visit Maribor Castle and its corresponding museum. Unfortunately, the castle is under renovation until 2015. Stop just before the castle and turn to the right to see the former location of Maribor’s first castle, destroyed by lightning. In its place are Freedom Square (Trg svobode) and Castle Square (Grajski Trg). From Grajski Trg, continue down Slovenska ul. and make a left onto Gledaliska ul. This will lead to Slomskov Trg. Make sure to peek inside the beautiful Maribor Cathedral, Slomškov trg 20. (Open daily 6:30am-7pm. Free.) After leaving the church, look across the square to the opera house, Miklosiceva c. Opera aficionados from all over come here every year to watch traditionally performed operas. Take Postna ul. down towards the river to reach Maribor’s main square, Glavni Trg, seat of the government buildings and the perfect place for a photo. Finally, continue down to the Drava River. Don’t miss the oldest vine in the world (Stara trta) —400 years old and still bearing fruit. Finish up at the museum, Vojašniška 8, behind the vine to learn more about Maribor’s wine making traditions. (☎02 251 5100. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Free. )