Bratislava Overview

Often eclipsed by its famous neighboring capitals, sophisticated Bratislava (pop. 450,000) is finally stepping into the limelight. Each night of the week, the city’s artfully lit streets buzz with activity. During the day, both locals and visitors can be found sipping coffee at the hundreds of chic cafes dotting the cobblestone Staré Mešto (Old Town), sauntering along the Danube River, or exploring the well-kept castle that shines over the city.

• Flights: M.R. Štefánik International Airport ( BTS; ☎02 48 57 11 11; www.letiskobratislava.sk), 9km northeast of town. Often used as a hub to reach Vienna, AUT . To reach the center of Bratislava, take bus #61 (1hr.) to the train station and then take tram #1 to Potová on nám. SNP.
• Trains: Bratislava Hlavná Stanica, at the end of Predstaničné nám., off Šancová. Železnice Slovenskej republiky (☎02 20 29 11 11; www.zsr.sk), posts schedules on its website. To Košice (5-6hr., 10 per day, 518Sk), Prague, CZR (4-5hr., 3 per day, 450Sk), and Vienna, AUT (1hr., 1 per hr., round-trip 283Sk). Get off at Hlavná Stanica, the main train station. To reach the center from the station, take tram #2 to the 6th stop or walk downhill, take a right, then an immediate left, and walk down Stefanikova (15-20min).
• Buses: Mlynské nivy 31 (☎02 55 42 16 67, info 09 84 22 22 22). Bus #210 runs between the train and bus stations. Check your ticket for the bus number (č. aut.), as several depart from the same stand. Eurolines has a 10% discount for those under 26. To: Banská Bystrica (3-4hr., 2-3 per hr., 250-300Sk); Budapest, HUN (4hr., 3 per day, 610Sk); Prague, CZR (4hr., 5 per day, 520Sk); Vienna, AUT (1hr., 1 per hr., 400Sk). From the station, take trolley #202, or turn right on Mlynské nivy and walk to Dunajská, which leads to Kamenné nám. (Stone Sq.) and the center of town (15-20min).
• Local Transportation: Tram and bus tickets (10min. 14Sk, 30min. 18Sk, 1hr. 22Sk) are sold at kiosks and at the orange automaty in bus stations. Use an automat only if its light is on. Stamp your ticket when you board; the fine for riding ticketless is 1200Sk. Trams and buses run 4am-11pm. Night buses, marked with blue-and-yellow numbers with an “N” in front of them, run midnight-4am. Some kiosks and ticket machines sell passes (1-day 90Sk, 2-day 170Sk, 3-day 210Sk).
• Taxis: BP (☎169 99); FunTaxi (☎167 77); Profi Taxi (☎162 22).

Orientation And Practical Information

The Dunaj (Danube) flows eastward across Bratislava. Four bridges span the river; the main Nový Most (New Bridge) connects Bratislava’s center, Staromestská (Old Town) in the north, to the commercial and entertainment district on the river’s southern bank. Bratislavský Hrad (Bratislava Castle) towers on a hill to the west, while the city center sits between the river and námestie Slovenského Národného Povstania (nám. SNP; Slovak National Uprising Sq.).

• Tourist Office: Bratislava Culture and Information Center (BKIS), Klobúčnicka 2 (☎161 86; www.bkis.sk). Books private rooms and hotels (1000-4800Sk plus 50Sk fee); sells maps (free-120Sk) and books tours (400 per person). Open June-Oct. 15 M-F 8:30am-7pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su 9:30am-5pm; May M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 9am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm. Branch in train station annex open M-F 8am-2pm and 2:30-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-2pm and 2:30-5pm.
• Embassies: Citizens of Australia and New Zealand should contact the UK embassy in an emergency. Canada, Mostová 2 (☎02 59 20 40 31; www.canada.cz). Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 1:30pm-4:30pm. Ireland, Mostová 2 (☎02 59 30 96 11; www.dfa.ie). Open M-F 9am-12:30pm. UK, Panská 16 (☎02 59 98 20 00; www.britishembassy.sk). Open M-Th 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30pm-5pm, F 8:30am-2pm. US, Hviezdoslavovo nám. 4 (☎02 54 43 08 61, emergency 09 03 70 36 66; www.slovakia.usembassy.gov). Open M-F 8am-noon and 2-3:30pm.
• Currency Exchange: Ludová Banka, nám. SNP 15 (☎02 59 21 17 63, ext. 760; www.luba.sk) cashes American Express Travelers Cheques for 1% commission and offers MC/V cash advances. Open M-F 8am-8pm.
• Luggage Storage: At the train station. 30-40Sk. Open daily 5:30am-midnight.
• Internet: There are Internet cafes all over central Bratislava, especially along Michalská and Obchodná. Megainet, Šancová 25. 1Sk per min. Open daily 9am-10pm.
• Post Office: Nám. SNP 34 (☎02 59 39 31 11). Offers fax service. Poste Restante and phone cards at counters #2-4. Poste restante M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 9am-2pm. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-2pm. Postal Code: 81000 Bratislava 1.

Accommodations

In July and August, several university dorms open as hostels (from 150Sk). Pensions and private rooms are cheap alternatives. Most places add a 50Sk tourist tax. BKIS (see Orientation and Practical Information, ) has more info.

• Patio Hostel, Špitálska 35 (☎02 52 92 57 97; www.patiohostel.com), near the bus station. From the train station, take tram #13 to the arch. The entrance is tucked behind a dimly lit, run-down archway, but the hostel itself is clean and comfortable, with sunny rooms, a friendly staff, and a colorful common area. Free Internet and laundry. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 11am. 6- to 12-bed dorms 500-700Sk; doubles 950-1000Sk; triples 850-900Sk. AmEx/MC/V.
• Downtown Backpacker’s Hostel, Panenská 31 (☎54 64 11 91; www.backpackers.sk). From the train station, turn left on Stefánikova and right on Panenská, or take bus #81, 91, or 93 for 2 stops. Swanky 19th-century building, with backpackers relaxing under a bust of Lenin and enjoying beers from the downstairs bar. Laundry 200Sk. Free Internet. Reception 24hr. Reserve ahead. Check-out 11am. Check-in 2pm. Dorms 500-600Sk; doubles 800Sk, with bath 1000Sk. 10% HI discount. Tourist tax 50Sk. MC/V.
• Possonium, Šancová 20. (☎220 720 007; www.possonium.sk) From the train station, walk straight down the hill, cross the main street, and turn left. The hostel is on the right. The new Possonium is a social hostel with friendly staffers and a quirky, horror-themed bar. Free Internet. Dorms 450-600Sk; doubles 850-950Sk. Tourist Tax 50Sk. MC/V.
• Družba, Botanická 25 (☎02 65 42 00 65; www.hotel-druzba.sk). Take bus #32 (dir.: Pri Kríži) or tram #1 or 5 to Botanická Záhrada. Cross the pedestrian overpass and go to the 2nd of the 2 concrete buildings. The university dorm is far from the Old Town, but its spacious dorms are bright and well-equipped. Dorms open early July to late Aug. Hotel open year-round. Reception M-Th 7am-3:30pm, F 7am-1pm. Dorms 190Sk; singles 790Sk; doubles 1400Sk. Tourist tax 50Sk. MC/V.

Food

Buy groceries at Tesco Potraviny, Kamenné nám. 1. (Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa 8am-8pm, Su 9am-8pm.) Try the indoor fruit market at Stará Trznícá, Kamenné nám. (Open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa 7am-1pm.)

• 1 Slovak Pub, Obchodná 62 (☎02 52 92 63 67; www.slovakpub.sk). Join the crowd at one of Bratislava’s largest and cheapest traditional Slovak restaurants. Each room has a theme, including “country cottage” and “Room of Poets.” Lunch until 5pm; 35-99Sk. Dinner entrees 79-300Sk. 10% discount for Patio Hostel guests. Open M-Th 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-2am, Su noon-midnight. MC/V.
• Govinda, Obchodná 30 (☎02 52 96 23 66). Venture into this colorful, underground nook to sample the heavenly veggie fare. Combination plate 104-124Sk. Open M-F 11am-8pm, Sa 11:30am-5pm. Cash only.
• Primi, Michalská 19 (☎02 54 43 15 42; www.primi.sk). This outdoor restaurant/bar is the pre-party spot for Bratislava’s youth. Diners enjoy the garden atmosphere while choosing from an extensive menu of international entrees (179-450Sk) and gourmet pizzas (129-239Sk). Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Su 11am-3am. MC/V.
• Prasná Bašta, Zámočnícka 11 (☎02 54 43 49 57; www.prasnabasta.sk). This hidden eatery’s pleasant outdoor terrace and frequent live music draw crowds for generous portions of Slovak cuisine. Entrees 105-379Sk. Open daily 11am-11pm. MC/V.
• Bagetka, Zelená 8 (☎02 54 41 94 36). Tucked in an inconspicuous alley off of the main town square, this sandwich bar is a fast, cheap, and satisfying option. Entrees 50-90Sk. Open M-F 9:30am-9pm, Sa noon-9pm, Su 2pm-9pm. Cash only.

Sights

Námestie Snp And Environs. Most of the city’s major attractions are in the Staré Mešto (Old Town). From Nám. SNP, which commemorates the bloody 1944 Slovak National Uprising, walk down Urulínska to the pink-and-gold   Primate’s Palace (Primaciálný Palác), built in the 1700s for Hungary’s religious leaders and now home to Bratislava’s mayor. (Primaciálné nám. 1. Buy tickets on 2nd fl. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. 40Sk, students free.) Established in September 2000, the contemporary   Danubiana-Meulensteen Art Museum is a piece of modern art in itself. On a small peninsula near the Hungarian border, the museum is surrounded by a small sculpture park. (Take bus #91 from beneath Nový Most to the last stop, Cunovo; 35min., 20Sk. Follow the signs 3.5km to the museum. ☎09 03 60 55 05; www.danubiana.sk. Open Tu-Su May-Sept. 10am-8pm; Oct.-Apr. 10am-6pm. 80Sk, students 40Sk. MC/V.) Hviezdoslavovo námestie is home to the gorgeous 1886 Slovak National Theater (Slovenské Národné Divadlo). With the Danube on your left, walk along the waterfront to the Nový Most (New Bridge), designed by the Communist government in the 70s. (☎625 203 00; www.u-f-o.sk. Deck open daily 10am-11pm. 200Sk, students 100Sk.) The Museum of Jewish Culture holds artifacts from Slovak Jews. (Židovská 17. ☎02 59 34 91 42; www.slovak-jewish-heritage.org. Open M-F and Su 11am-5pm. 200Sk, students 60Sk.)

Castles. On an imposing cliff 9km west of the center, the stunning Devín Castle (Hrad Devín) ruins overlook the confluence of the mighty Danube and Morava rivers. (Bus #29 from Nový Most to the last stop. ☎65 73 01 05. English-language info 35Sk. Open May-Sept. Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm; Apr. and Oct.-Nov. Tu-Su 10am-5pm; last entry 30min. before closing. Museum 130Sk, students 70Sk.) Visible from Danube Banks, the Bratislava Castle (Bratislavský Hrad) is Bratislava’s defining landmark.

Entertainment And Nightlife

The weekly English newspaper, Slovak Spectator, also has current events info. Slovenské Národné Divadlo (Slovak National Theater), Hviezdoslavovo nám. 1, puts on ballets and operas. (☎02 57 78 25 34; www.snd.sk. Buy tickets at Pribinova 17. Box office open Sept.-June M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 9am-1pm. 100-300Sk.) The Slovenská Filharmónia (Slovak Philharmonic), Medená 3, has two to three performances per week in fall and winter. The box office, Palackého 2, is around the corner. (☎02 59 20 82 33; www.filharm.sk. Open M-Tu and Th-F 1-7pm, W 8am-2pm. 100-200Sk.)

By night, Old Town is filled with young people preparing for a night out. At the packed, techno-infused hot spot   Klub Laverna, Laurinská 19, a slide transports drunken clubbers from the upper level to the floor. (☎02 54 43 31 65; www.lavernaklub.sk, entrance on SNP street. Mixed drinks 85-250Sk. Cover F-Sa 100Sk. Open daily 9pm-6am.) Nearby at Laurinská 7, the underground Aligator Pub is the spot for Bratislava’s tattoo-covered, alternative crowd. (☎02 43 19 10 94. Beer from 30Sk. Open Tu-Sa 5pm-3am.) For a less-crazed evening, head to Medusa Cocktail Bar, Michalská 21, which defines chic with its posh decor and huge selection of mixed drinks. (Cocktails 149-399SK). Open M-Th 11am-1am, Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.) For info on GLBT nightlife, pick up a copy of Atribut at any kiosk.