New Zealand Tramping

Backpacking, trekking, hillwalking, bushwalking—whatever you call it back home, it’s tramping in New Zealand. The country’s nine most spectacular and popular tramps (including one that takes place entirely over water) are classified as Great Walks and are run by the DOC under a separate administration. The Rees-Dart Track a major track, has undergone recent improvements including the construction of a new, modern hut, the addition of several foot bridges and railings, and the widening of the track in certain areas. Many trampers suspect that the Rees-Dart is being groomed for Great Walk status. The DOC is an unparalleled resource for information on the seasonal availability and safety of hikes, the regulations and practicalities for adventuring in New Zealand, weather forecasts, maps, and more. Offices are in every large city, most small towns, and virtually every protected wilderness area. The easiest and cheapest way to book tracks and reserve huts is through the DOC website (www.doc.govt.nz). Still though, the DOC often requires trampers to give detailed information in the DOC intention book before setting out on any DOC monitored track, especially in winter months when traffic is low. Most city DOC offices will also sell hut passes and assist with hut bookings for nearby tracks, though the track may already be booked and the office will charge a small reservations fee. For most tracks, the DOC also produces a brochure with basic but adequate map and track information. Detailed topographic maps are $12-14. The main DOC office is located at 18 Manners St., Wellington (☎04 384 7770). For more information on hut passes, Great Walks, and bookings, read further. Check with the local DOC office before venturing forth.

The DOC designates New Zealand’s grandest tramps as Great Walks, a series of nine tracks that wend through New Zealand’s most stunning and unique geography. These offer avid trampers of all experience levels over 400km of glacially carved valleys, tranquil mountain lakes, and forested sea coasts. Ranging from the spectacular Milford Track through mystical Fiordland wilderness to the dazzling Abel Tasman Coast Track along golden beaches and cresting waves of Tasman Bay, the Great Walks deliver unique insights into New Zealand’s diverse ecology. All nine walks are well maintained, well graded, and make excellent introductory trips for those with little or no previous experience. However, good maintenance, easy access, and superb facilities make for crowded summer trails. Hardened backpackers seeking a challenging and solitary wilderness trip may wish to explore less-trodden routes. Yet despite crowding, the sheer richness and splendor of Great Walks scenery is irresistible to any nature enthusiast.

Most walks require pre-purchased, time-limited, track-specific Great Walks Tickets, except in winter when many revert to the backcountry hut pass system (huts become Standard Huts). The Great Walks Ticket serves as proof of payment for accommodation in a hut or a designated campsite along the track. Since camping is only allowed in certain areas, you must take the ticket with you on the track. Though traffic varies, many of the walks necessitate booking in advance for the summer (Nov.-Apr.; bookings for the upcoming season begin on July 1), especially the Abel Tasman, Milford, Heaphy, and Routeburn Tracks. This booking system restricts visitor numbers and guarantees a bunk in a hut, preventing a daily rampage of trampers eager to secure the next night’s bed. Cancellations allow date-flexible couples and single trampers the chance to get on the track. Placing your name on the waiting list will often secure you a last-minute spot. For comprehensive information on fees and bookings, visit www.doc.govt.nz or contact the DOC regional office that oversees the track you are attempting to book.

• Abel Tasman Coast Track (Abel Tasman National Park): 51km, 3-5 days. Less difficult. The most popular of all the Great Walks, this track offers golden beaches and turquoise ocean views, framed by fern-filled forest. Advance reservations required.
• Heaphy Track (Kahurangi National Park): 82km, 4-6 days. More difficult. New Zealand’s most ecologically diverse track, passing through lofty beech forests, alpine meadows, lowland podocarp forest, and wild beaches. Advance reservations required.
• Kepler Track (Fiordland National Park): 60km, 3-4 days. More difficult. The most accessible of the Great Walks, the Kepler is an awe-inspiring ridge-walk, offering commanding views of Lake Te Anau and Fiordland.
• Lake Waikaremoana Track (Te Urewera National Park): 46km, 3-4 days. Moderately difficult. This track climbs bluffs topped with gnarled beech trees.
• Milford Track (Fiordland National Park): 54km, 4 days. Moderately difficult. Heralded as “the finest walk in the world,” the Milford runs through 2 glacial valleys and over a spectacular mountain pass. Rock faces are watered by countless cascades, including Sutherland Falls—New Zealand’s highest. Advance reservations required.
• Rakiura Track (Rakiura National Park): 36km, 2-3 days. Moderately difficult. The newest of the Great Walks, this boardwalked track undulates through the primordial forest on Stewart Island.
• Routeburn Track (Mt. Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks): 33km, 2-4 days. More difficult. Mostly traveling high above treeline, the Routeburn skirts grand valleys and overlooks rugged mountain ranges. Advance reservations required.
• Tongariro Northern Circuit (Tongariro National Park): 51.5km, 3-4 days. More difficult. Winding around 3 great volcanoes, this track passes wild and spectacular lava flows, desolate moonscapes, and technicolor lakes. The Tongariro Crossing, “the finest one-day walk in New Zealand,” is part of the circuit.
• Whanganui River Journey (Whanganui National Park): 145km, 3-5 days by canoe. More difficult. The only Great Walk that requires a paddle; canoeists and kayakers battle the small rapids beneath luxuriant greenery. Two Maori marae make the trip a cultural journey as well.

Just-As-Great Walks

While many travelers come to New Zealand to hike one of the nine Great Walks, the just-as-great walks tend to be even more awe-inspiring than the great ones. Typically, those tracks not listed with the great nine are longer, cover more difficult terrain and are more difficult to access. Fortunately, New Zealand is well-equipped to handle such difficulties and the rewards for stepping off the great tracks are often exhilarating. The best of the rest are listed below.

• Dusky Track (Fiordland National Park): 84km, 8-10 days. Extremely difficult. New Zealand’s most rugged track, the Dusky rewards the intrepid with alpine vistas, pristine forests and rivers, lots and lots of mud, and a satisfying challenge. Recommended only for groups of experienced trampers.
• Greenstone and Caples Tracks (Wakatipu Recreational Hunting Area): 50km, 4-5 days. More difficult. Cattle graze in paradise, where green mountains overlook the golden meadows of the valley floor.
• The Northwest Circuit (Rakiura National Park): 125km, 8-10 days. More difficult. Off the boardwalk and ankle deep in mud, the Northwest Circuit traces Stewart Island’s secluded shores and bird sanctuaries before traversing the subalpine meadows of the island’s highest point.
• Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track (Fiordland National Park): 53km, 3 days. More difficult. New Zealand’s newest track, the Hump Ridge is run by a local trust and explores the rugged wilderness of southern Fiordland. Advance bookings required.
• Queen Charlotte Track (Marlborough Sounds): 71km, 3-5 days. Moderately difficult. This popular, mellow walk winds along the shimmering inlets of the Sounds. Pampered trampers can stay in trackside hostels and have packs transported by boat.
• Rees-Dart Track (Mt. Aspiring National Park): 72km, 4-5 days. More difficult. The Rees and Dart River Valleys are crowned with glaciers galore. A daytrip up to the Cascade Saddle affords one of the most mind-numbing views in New Zealand.
• Wangapeka Track (Kahurangi National Park): 52km, 3-5 days. More difficult. Similar in scenery to its brother the Heaphy, the Wangapeka offers a secluded taste of New Zealand’s tremendous ecological diversity.