Located in the valley of the Maas River, Liège (lee-AJH; pop. 200,000), the largest city in Wallonie, is often dismissed as a mere transportation hub for eastbound travelers. However, its cutting-edge art scene and night-owl student hangouts temper the city’s industrial character. The Coeur Historique is a quaint area knotted with cobblestone streets and medieval-looking alleys. There by the river, you’ll find the Musée de L’Art Wallon, 86 Féronstrée, a collection of Belgian art dating back to the Renaissance. (☎04 221 9231; www.museeartwallon.be. Open Tu-Sa 1-6pm, Su 11am-4:30pm. €5, students €3.) Turn onto r. de Bueren and climb (over 400 steps) to the Montagne de Bueren for an expansive view of the city. Take a right and climb a few more steps to find the peaceful gardens of the Coteaux de la Citadelle. From Féronstrée, turn left onto r. Léopold and right onto r. de la Cathédrale; after 10min. you will reach the Gothic naves and sparkling gold treasure of the Cathédrale de St-Paul. (☎04 232 6131. Cathedral open daily 8am-5pm. Treasure room open Tu-Su 2-5pm. Tour 3pm. Cathedral free. Treasure room €4, students €2.50.) The impressive architecture of St.-James Cathedral is an eclectic mix of Renaissance and Gothic styles. In between the banks of the river, a large island makes up the working-class neighborhood of Outremeuse, which is home to the Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain (MAMAC), 3 Parc de la Boverie. The beautiful building and surrounding park are 20min. across the river and to the right from the Coeur Historique and St. Paul’s. Take bus #17 (€1.30) to reach MAMAC from the station. (☎04 343 0403; www.mamac.be. Open Tu-Sa 1-6pm, Su 11am-4 :30pm. €5, students €3.) At night, students from the University of Liège pack Le Carré, a pedestrian area with narrow, bar-lined streets bisected by r. du Pot-d’Or. On August 15th every year, Liège hosts a massive folk festival, where locals and tourists alike gather in Outre Maas, an area of small streets and yards, to drink beer and be merry.
To reach the commercial yet comfortable Auberge Georges Simenon de Jeunesse de Liège (HI) , 2 r. Georges Simenon, walk across the Pont des Arches from the Coeur Historique, or take bus #4 and ask to get off at Auberge Simenon. (☎04 344 5689. Breakfast and linens included. Bikes €6 per day. Internet €0.60 per 15min. Reception M-Sa 7:30am-1am, Su 7:30am-11pm. Lockout 10am-3pm. Dorms €20; singles €32; doubles €48. €3 HI discount. MC/V.) Parallel to Féronstrée is Hors Château, a street lined with beautifully restored restaurants, cafes, and bars. Newave à la Passerelle , offers quick and scrumptious Belgian fare. (Fries €2-2.50, sandwiches €3-5).
Trains run to Brussels (1hr., 2-5 per hr., €13). The tourist office, 92 Féronstrée, is just a couple doors down from the Musée de L’Art Wallon. (☎04 221 9221; www.liege.be. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-4:30pm, Su 10am-2:30pm.) Across the Pont des Arches from the hostel, Cyberman, 48 r. Léopold, has Internet. (☎04 87 60 56 95. Open daily 10am-11pm. €1 per hr.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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