Veliko Turnovo (Велико Търново) Overview

Veliko Turnovo (pop. 66,000), on the steep hills above the Yantra River, has watched over Bulgaria for more than 5000 years. The city’s residents led the 1185 national uprising against Byzantine rule, and its revolutionaries wrote the country’s first constitution in 1879. The ruins of the   Tsarevets (Царевец), a fortress that was the main citadel and Second Bulgarian Kingdom’s center of power (1185-1393), span a hillside right outside the city. (Open daily 8am-7pm, kassa closes 6pm. 4lv, students 2lv.) Once inside, climb uphill to the aptly named Church of the Ascension (Църква Възнесениегосподне; Tsurkva Vuzneseniyegospodne), which was restored in honor of the country’s 1300th anniversary in 1981. For a foray into modern Bulgarian history, go to the National Revival Museum (Музей на Възраждането; Muzey na Vuzrazhdaneto; ☎062 62 98 21. Open M and W-Su 9am-6pm. 4lv, students 2lv.)

  Hostel Mostel , 10 Iordan Indjeto Str. (Ул. Йордан Инджето), is just a few steps from Tsarevets fortress and one of the best in the country. Breakfast is free, as is dinner, Internet, Wi-Fi and pickup from the station. The exceptional owners attract social travelers from all over. (☎897 859 359; www.hostelmostel.com. Dorms 20lv. Double 60lv. Cash only). Recommended by almost everyone in town, Shtastlivetsa , 79 Stefan Stambalov, has an incredibly extensive menu serving massive portions of good food for low prices. (☎062 600 656, open daily 11am-11pm. Entrees 6lv-22lv. AmEx/MC/V.)

ETAP sends buses to Sofia (3hr., 13 per day, 40lv) and Varna (3hr., 10 per day, 40lv). Bus #10 leaves from Veliko Turnovo’s main square for Gorna Oryakhovitsa (Горна Оряховица), the train station. Trains go to Burgas (6-7hr., 7 per day, 11lv), Sofia (5.5-7hr., 8 per day, 14.80lv), and Varna (4-7hr., 4 per day, 12.50lv). Navigator Internet Club (Yfdbufnjh), Nezavisimost 3 (Независимост), is open 24hr. (☎062 67 02 88. 1lv per hr. Cash only.) The tourist office is at bul. Hristo Botev 5. (Христо Ботев. ☎062 62 21 48. Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Postal Code: 5000.