Split Overview

With its rich history and rocking nightlife, the coastal city of Split (pop. 221,000) is more a cultural center than a beach resort. Here, centuries of history collide with modern life, making the city a fascinating labyrinth of perfectly preserved Roman monuments, medieval streets, and hip bars.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Buses (☎021 327 777; www.ak-split.hr) run to: Dubrovnik (4hr.; 18 per day; 113-144kn, round-trip 179-228kn); Rijeka (7½-8hr., 12 per day, 246-318kn); Zadar (3hr., approx. 2 per hr., 100kn); Zagreb (5hr., 1-4 per hr., 175-203kn); Ljubljana, SLV (11hr., 1 per day, 307kn.) Ferries (☎021 338 333) depart from the dock right across from the bus station to: Supetar, Brač Island (45min., 14 per day, 30kn) and Stari Grad, Hvar Island (1hr., 6-7 per day, 42kn). Ferries also leave the international harbor to Ancona, ITA (10hr., 6 per wk., €40-55) and Bari, ITA (25hr., 4 per week, €45-62). Ask help from the assistants when deciphering the ferry schedules distributed at the Jadrolinija office. (Open daily 7am-9pm.) The tourist information center, Peristil bb, has a helpful staff and provides free maps, including one with a walking tour of Split. (☎021 345 606; www.visitsplit.com. Open Apr.-Oct. M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su/holidays 8am-1pm; Jan.-Mar., Nov.-Dec. M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 8am-1pm.) Those who stay in town for more than three days are entitled to a free SplitCard that gets big discounts for sightseeing, shopping, and sleeping. Bring a hostel receipt to any tourist office to prove your stay; otherwise purchase one for 60kn. Postal Code: 21000.

Accommodations And Food. The small travel agency Tour de Croatia, Obala kneza domagoja 1, books private rooms, exchanges currency, and organizes excursions. (☎023 338 319; www.tourdecroatia.com. Open daily July-Aug. 8am-9pm; Sept.-June 9am-6pm.) At Al’s Place , Kružićeva 10, the city’s first hostel, young-at-heart Al organizes daytrips and offers a wealth of expertise on Split and nearby islands. There are only 12 beds, which are usually full; reserve ahead. (☎098 918 2923; www.hostelsplit.com. Internet 5kn per 20min. Reception open daily 8:30am-1pm, 5pm-8:30pm. June-Aug.130kn; Sept.-May110kn. Cash only.) With its motto of “booze and snooze,” Split Hostel , Narodni Trg 8, is perfect for revelers. The friendly Australian staff lead nights out on the town. (☎021 342 787; www.splithostel.com. Free lockers and Wi-Fi. Reception daily 8am-10pm. Dorms Jan.-mid-Apr., Oct.-Dec. 110kn; mid-Apr.-May 125kn; June, Sept. 150kn; July-Aug. 180kn. 10% discount for pre-booking. Cash only.) Tucked away along the narrow streets of the Old Town are lots of snack bars and restaurants, as well as kiosks with pizzas (slices 8kn) and bureks (10kn). Konoba Varos , adorned in fishnets, feeds hungry locals and curious visitors with delicious Croatian fare. Entrees 60kn-80kn (☎021 396 138).

Sights. The Stari Grad (Old Town), wedged between a mountain range and a palm-lined waterfront, sprawls inside and around the ruins of a luxurious open-air palace, where the Roman emperor Diocletian summered when not persecuting Christians. The basement halls are near the palace entrance, at the beginning of the waterfront pedestrian street Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda (known to locals as the ‘Riva’); take refuge from the midday heat in the cool relief of underground Split as you lose your way in this haunting maze sprinkled with imperial artifacts. (Open M-Sa 9am-9pm, Su and holidays 9am-6pm. 25kn, students 10kn.) The view of Split from the   bell tower (60m) of Cathedral of St. Domnius (Katedrala sv. Dujma) is breathtaking, especially at dusk when you can see the seemingly glowing red rooftops and the Adriatic Sea sprawled around for miles; be sure to watch your head when climbing up. (Cathedral and tower open Mar.-Oct. daily 8am-8pm.10kn each.) The   Meštrović Gallery (Galerija Ivana Meštrovića), Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, houses the splendid works of Croatia’s most celebrated sculptor in a gorgeous villa facing the sea. To get there from the center of town, walk right facing the water, pass the marina, and follow the road up the hill; the gallery is right past the Archaeological Museum. (☎021 340 800. Open May-Sept. Tu-Sa 9am-9pm, Su noon-9pm; Oct.-Apr. Tu-Sa 9am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm. 30kn, students 15kn.)

Nightlife. Revelers flock to a string of bars and clubs on Bačvice beach. From the Old Town, walk past the train and bus stations, cross the bridge over the train tracks, and continue left down the hill toward the beach. Farther along the waterfront, beachside club O’Hara, Uvala Zenta 3, blasts techno on two floors and offers potent mixed drinks to its lively clientele. (☎021 364 262. Open M-Th 8pm-3am, F-Sa 8pm-4am.) Hidden on a narrow line of steps in the Old Town,  Puls, Buvnina 1, is a popular bar with low tables, cushions directly on the pavement, and live music. DJs spin on the weekends. To get there from Obala Riva, enter Trg brače Radič, turn right at the corner snack bar, and continue straight. (Open M-F 7am-midnight, Sa 7am-1am, Su 4pm-midnight.)