The two spires of St. Peter’s Cathedral dominate the skyline of Brno (pop. 388,000), the second largest city in the country and an international marketplace since the 13th century. Today, global corporations compete with family-owned produce stands, and churches soften the glare of casinos and clubs. Špilberk Castle (Hrad Špilberk) earned a reputation as the cruelest prison in Hapsburg Europe. Today the castle is a museum, and its cells house Baroque art. From Nám. Svobody, take Zámečnická and go right on Panenská; after Husova, head uphill. (www.spilberk.cz. Open May-Sept. Tu-Su 9am-6pm, Apr. and Oct. Tu-Su 9am-5pm, Nov.-Mar. 10am-5pm. 70Kč, students 50Kč.) The Peter and Paul Cathedral was allegedly saved from the Swedish siege of 1645 by the clever townspeople. The attacking general promised to retreat if his army didn’t capture the city by noon; when the townsfolk learned of his claim, they struck the noon bells one hour early and the Swedes slunk away. The bells have been striking noon at 11am ever since. (On Petrov Hill. Climb Petrska from Zelný trh. Cathedral open M-Sa 8:15am-6:15pm. Su 7am-6pm. Chapel, tower, and crypt open M-Sa 11am-6pm, Su 1-6pm. Cathedral and chapel free. Tower 25Kč, students 20Kč. Crypt 25/10Kč.) Down Masarykova on the left is the Capuchin Monastery Crypt (Hrobka Kapucínského kláštera), where 18th-century monks developed a burial technique to allow bodies to dry naturally. (Open May-Sept. M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-4:30pm, Su 11-11:45am and 2-4:30pm, Oct.-Apr. Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-4:30pm, Su 11-11:45am and 2-4:30pm. 40Kč, students 20Kč.) The Mendelianum, Mendlovo nám. 1A, documents the life and work of Johann Gregor Mendel. (Open Apr.-Oct. Tu-Su10am-6pm; Nov.-Mar. Tu-Su 10am-5pm. 60Kč, students 30Kč.) English-speaking expats fill Charlie’s Hat, Kobližná 12, a lively cellar bar with cheap beer and a loud pop/rock soundtrack. (☎542 210 557. Beer from 18Kč. Pub open daily 9pm-late.) The large Klub Flëda, Štefánikova 24, is Brno’s prime music venue, hosting concerts and live DJs. Take tram #26 up Štefánikova to Hrncirska; Flëda is on the right. (www.fleda.cz. Open daily 2pm-midnight.) The free guide Metropolis lists upcoming events.
Get a good night’s sleep at Hotel Astorka , Česká 20, has comfortable rooms right in the center of town. From nam. Svobody, walk 100m down Česká, the hotel is on your right. (☎542 321 303; www.avion-hotel.cz. Breakfast included. Singles 650Kč; doubles 1300Kč. MC/V). Try the all-organic vegetarian buffet at Rebio , Orlí 26. (☎542 211 130. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa 10am-3pm. Cash only.)
Trains (☎542 214 803) go to Prague (3-4hr., 22 per day, 300-400Kč); Bratislava, SLK (2hr., 12 per day, 200Kč); Budapest, HUN (4hr., 5 per day, 970Kč); Vienna, AUT (1hr., 5 per day, 540Kč). Buses (☎543 217 733) leave from Zvonařka and Plotní for Prague (2hr., 36 per day, 140Kč) and Vienna, AUT (2hr., 2 per day, 200Kč). Student Agency buses (☎542 4242) run to Prague (40 per day, 150Kč) down from the train station. For maps and information, the tourist office, Radnická 8, is in the town hall. (☎542 211 090; www.ticbrno.cz. Open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-5:30pm.) Postal Code: 60100.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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