Olomouc Olomouc

Formerly the capital of Moravia, the inviting university town of Olomouc (pop. 103,000) resembles Prague as it was before the city was totally overwhelmed by tourists. Find peace in a city wheres Baroque architecture that lines the paths in the town center, locals stroll outdoors during the day, and students keep the clubs thumping until dawn. Every May, the town plays host to the second-largest Oktoberfest celebration in Europe. The 1378 radnice (town hall) and its clock tower dominate the town center. The tourist office arranges trips up the tower (daily 11am and 3pm; 15Kč). An amusing astronomical clock is set in the town hall’s north side. In 1955, Communist clockmakers replaced the attractive mechanical saints with archetypes of “the people.” The 35m black-and-gold Trinity Column (Sloup Nejsvětější Trojice), the dolphin-shaped Arion Fountain, and the towering St. Moritz Church surround the square. A 10 minute walk from the main square, the three spires of 750-year-old St. Wenceslas Cathedral (Metropolitní Kostel sv. Václava) dominate the skyline. (Cathedral open Tu and Th-Sa 9am-5pm, W 9am-4pm, Su 11am-5pm. Donations requested.) Next door in the city’s restored Přemyslid Castle, the newly opened Archdiocesan Museum holds the impressive remnants of the original castle in addition to a permanent collection of Moravian art. (☎585 514 111; www.olmuart.cz. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm. Admission 50Kč, students 25Kč, W and Su free.)

The small   Poet’s Corner Hostel , Dolní nám. 38, is packed with locals devouring Czech fare. (☎777 721 171. Entrees 45-199Kč. Open M-Sa 10am-midnight, Su 10am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Trains (☎584 722 175) leave from Jeremenkova 23 for Brno (1hr., 5 per day, 120Kč) and Prague (3hr., 19 per day, 294Kč). Buses (☎585 313 917) leave from Rolsberská 66 for Brno (1hr., 10 per day, 75-95Kč) and Prague (4hr., 4 per day, 240-275Kč). The tourist office, Horní nám., is in the town hall. (☎585 513 385; www.olomoucko.cz. Open daily Mar.-Nov. 9am-7pm; Dec.-Feb. 9am-5pm.) Grab a terminal at Internet u Dominika, Slovenská 12. (☎777 181 857. 60Kč per hr. Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-9pm.) Postal Code: 77127.