Český Krumlov Overview

This once-hidden gem of the Czech Republic has been discovered by tourists escaping Prague’s overcrowded attractions. But when the sun goes down and the day-trippers leave, this fairy-tale town won’t disappoint. The majestic Zamek (Castle), the second largest castle in the country, has been home to a succession of Bohemian and Bavarian nobles since the 1200s. Follow Radniční across the river to the entrance on Latrán. Climb the 162 steps of the tower for a fabulous view of the town. (☎380 704 711. Castle open June-Aug. Tu-Su 9am-6pm, Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-May Tu-Su 9am-5pm. Last tour 1hr. before closing. Tower open June-Aug. Tu-Su 9am-5:30pm, Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-May 9am-4:30pm. Castle tour 230Kč, students 130Kč. Tower 45Kč.) The enchanting castle gardens host the popular Revolving South Bohemia Theater, which has summer performances. (Gardens open May-Sept. Tu-Su 9am-7pm, Oct. and Apr. Tu-Su 8am-5pm. Free. Shows begin 8:30-9:30pm. Tickets 200-900Kč; available at the tourist office. Reserve ahead.) The   Egon Schiele Art Center, Siroká 70-72, displays Schiele’s works alongside those of other 20th-century Baltic artists. (☎380 704 011; www.schieleartcentrum.cz. Open daily 10am-6pm. 120Kč, students 70Kč.)

Cikánská Jizba (Gypsy Bar), Dlouhá 31, serves up Roma cuisine (80-180Kč) and music. (☎380 717 585. Open daily 3-11pm.) Every night is Halloween at the nearby Nebeské pastviny (Horror Bar) on the corner of Másna and Radniční. Costumed witches will bring over your drink. (☎775 234 214. Open daily 6pm-1am.) Most hostels provide free   inner tubes so guests can ride down the Vltava River. VLTAVA, Kájovská 62, rents equipment, provides trips for rafting down the river, and rents bikes. (☎380 711 988; www.ckvltava.cz. Bike rental 320Kč per day. Open June-Sept. daily 9am-7pm, Oct.-May daily 9am-5pm.) Go horseback riding at Jezdeck klub Slupenec, Slupenec 1. Follow Horní to the highway, take the second left on Křížová, and follow the red trail to Slupenec. (☎380 711 052; www.jk-slupenec.cz. Open Tu-Su 9am-6pm. 300 Kč per hr.)

The laid-back   Krumlov House , Rooseveltova 68, has large, rustic rooms and a well-stocked common room. To get there from the bus station, walk to the end of the station toward the castle tower, take the pedestrian path on your left, cross the main street at the bottom of the hill, and take your first, sharp left onto Rooseveltova. (☎380 711 935; www.krumlovhostel.com. Reception 9am-8pm. Check-out 10am. No curfew. Linens and Wi-Fi included. Laundry 150Kč. Apr.-Oct. 14 dorms 300Kč; doubles 375Kč, with bath 400Kč; suites 450Kč. Oct. 15-Mar. dorms 250Kč; doubles 300Kč, with bath 350Kč; suites 400Kč.)   Hostel 99 , Věžní 99, has multi-level dorm rooms and a free keg every Wednesday night. From nám. Svornosti, take Radniční, which becomes Latrán; turn right on Věžní at the red-and-yellow gate. (☎380 712 812; www.hostel99.com. Reception 9am-9pm. Check-in noon, check-out 10am. Internet and kitchen access included. Dorms 250-300Kč; doubles 700-900Kč.) Just off Radniční,   Laibon , Parkán 105, serves excellent vegetarian cuisine and has a relaxing, river-front terrace. (Entrees 30-150Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Cash only.)

Trains run from Nádrazní 31 (☎755 1111) to České Budějovice (1hr., 8 per day, 46Kč) and Prague (2hr., 5 per day, 224Kč). A bus runs from the train station to the town center (5Kč). Buses run from the bus station to České Budějovice (45 min, 15 per day, 32Kč) and Prague (3 1/2 hr. 6 per day, 172Kč). The tourist office is at Nám. Svornosti 2. (☎380 704 622; www.ckrumlov.cz/infocentrum. Open Apr.-Oct. M-Sa 9am-1pm and 2-7pm.) Postal Code: 38101.