Odense Overview

The regional capital of Funen, Odense (OH-den-suh, pop. 200,000) is a smaller, busy city by day or night. Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the pedestrian streets and relax among the many parks.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Trains run to Copenhagen (1hr., 2 per hr., 224kr). Buses depart from behind the train station. The tourist office, in the Rådhuset, offers free Internet and useful guides. Turn left out of the train station and then take a right on Thomas B. Thriges Gade (the second light). The office will be on your right when you reach Vesterg.(☎66 12 75 20; www.visitodense.com. Open July-Aug. M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 10am-3pm, Su 11am-2pm; Sept. to mid-June M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 10am-1pm.) The library in the station also has free Internet. (☎6551 4301; www.odenselib.dk). Open Apr.-Sept. M-Th 10am-7pm, F 10am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm; low season extended hours.) Rent bikes at City Cykler, Vesterbro 27. Continue down Vesterg. from the tourist office for 10min.; it will be on the right. (☎6612 9793; www.citycykler.dk. 125kr per day. Open M-F 10am-5:30pm, Sa 10am-1pm.)

Accommodations And Food.  Danhostel Odense City (HI) is directly to the right of the train station. Cafe and basement features lounge area with TV and computer. Buy a snack at the cafe downstairs for free Internet. (☎63 11 04 25; www.cityhostel.dk. Breakfast 59kr. Linens 70kr. Laundry 45kr. Reception 8am-noon and 4-8pm. Dorms 150kr; singles 350kr; doubles 400kr; triples 420kr; quads 480kr. 35kr HI discount. MC/V; 4% surcharge.) To reach DCU-Camping Odense , Odensev. 102, take bus #42 (dir.: Skt. Klemens; 14kr) 4km from town. (☎66 11 47 02; www.camping-odense.dk. Electricity 27kr. Wi-Fi. Reception high season 7:30am-noon and 2-10pm; low season 7:30am-noon and 4-10pm. Jan.-June 66kr; mid-June to mid-Aug. 70kr. Small cabins: high season 420kr per day; 2940kr per week. low season 335kr per day; 2345kr per week; blanket and pillow 60kr. Cabin prices include electricity. AmEx/MC/V.) Vestergade has a variety of restaurants and cafes offering traditional Turkish, Italian, and Danish cuisine. Don’t overlook the alleys off Vesterg., including low-key Vintapperstræde and Brandts Passage, a hidden enclave with posh cafes. Mamma’s Pizzeria , Klaregade 4. is a take-away shop, deli, and restaurant that serves large portions of hearty home-cooked meals. (☎6614 5540; www.mammas.dk. Special takeout for two 90kr, deli panini 42-48kr, entrees 80-90kr.)

Sights And Nightlife. Strategically built around the calm waters of the Odense River, Odense’s parks lend themselves to great biking and leisurely walks. The Hans Christian Andersen Hus, Bangs Boder 29, takes visitors through a chronicle of the fairy tale author’s entire life from childhood jobs to love affairs. Enjoy free performances of his timeless stories in a mix of Danish, English, and German. From the tourist office, walk right on Vesterg., turn left on Thomas Thriges G., and go right on Hans Jensens Str. (☎65 51 46 01; www.museum.odense.dk. Open daily June-Aug. daily 9am-6pm; Sept.-May Tu-Su 10am-4pm. 60kr. Summer performances 11am, 1, 3pm.) Music seems to continuously waft through the halls of the Carl Nielsen Museum, Claus Bergs G. 11, which depicts the life of the Danish composer and his wife, sculptress Anne Marie Carl-Nielsen. (Open Th-F 4-8pm, Su noon-4pm. Free).

On weekend evenings, the area around Vesterg. is packed with people of all ages drinking and listening to live bands. After 11pm, the club and bar scene takes over. What’s On? , available at the tourist office, provides nightlife information. Head down Skt. Knuds Plads for fun, laid-back bars and a game of pool. For one of the best pub and disco experiences, locals swarm to Boogie Dance Cafe , Norreg. 21. (☎66 14 00 39; www.boogiedance.dk. Cover Th 20kr; F-Sa 40kr after midnight. Open Tu-W 11pm-4:30am, Th 11pm-5am, F 11pm-5:30am, Sa 11pm-6am. MC/V.) Retro, Overgaden 45, is an elite place to party: cocktails run about 85kr. This bustling nightclub, decked in awesome lighting and filled with young people, is strictly for dancing. There’s a comfy bar downstairs with foosball and darts for more relaxed partygoers.

Daytrip From Odense: Kværndrup. Any traveler will find something of interest at the magical   Egeskov Slot, Egeskov Gade 18, 25min. south of Odense in Kværndrup. More than just a castle, Egeskov has an assortment of attractions, including beautiful gardens and breathtaking views from the treetops. Get lost in the many hedge-mazes and tour the museums displaying old cars, motorcycles, airplanes, dolls, and more. Inside the castle, you will find traditional 18th-century artifacts among the various rooms, as well as an extensive hunting gallery. (☎62 27 10 16; www.egeskov.com. Castle open Apr.-Sept. 10am-5pm, June 10am-6pm, July 1-Aug. 10 10am-8pm. Aug. 11-31 10am-6pm. Grounds, museum, maze 120kr; with castle 175 kr. MC/V.) Take Svendborg-bound train (25min., 35min. past the hr., 52kr) from Odense. In Kværndrup, turn right out of the station, walk up to Bøjdenv. and catch bus #920 (every hr., 16kr), or turn right and walk 30min; there are no pedestrian walkways so be mindful of fast moving cars. Take a right on Egeskov and walk 350 meters to the castle. From mid-June to mid-August, you can take FynBus #801 from Odense directly to the castle (1hr., 3-8 per day, 44kr).