Crisp sea air gusts over the medieval buildings and spires of Tallinn (pop. 401,000), the self-proclaimed “Heart of Northern Europe.” The Old Town, though crowded with sightseers, hides quiet alleys and cafes. Visitors willing to venture beyond the compact center will be delighted by quirky cafes, lush parks, and the glorious seaside promenade.
Even locals lose their way along the winding medieval streets of Tallinn’s Vanalinn (Old Town), an egg-shaped maze ringed by five main streets: Rannamäe tee, Mere puistee, Pärnu mantee, Kaarli puistee, and Toompuiestee. Vanalinn has two sections: All-linn (Lower Town) and Toompea, a rocky, fortified hill west of All-linn . Only about 50% of the wall that once encircled Vanalinn is intact, but the best entrance is still through the 15th-century Viru Gate, across from Hotel Viru (unless you come from the ferry terminal, in which case it’s best to go through the Great Coastal Gate, Surr Rannavärav, to the north). Viru, the main thoroughfare, leads directly to Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square), in the center of town.
Travel agencies are easy to find, but hostels fill up fast, so reserve ahead. Oldhouse Guesthouse , Uus 14, has a bunch of beds in a cheerful room. (☎517 1337. www.balticbackpackers.com. Linens 25EEK. Internet 5EEK per 15min. Dorms 225EEK. MC/V.)
The secret is out about Kompressor , Rataskaevu 3. This is the best place in town for Estonian pancakes, offering giant portions with fish, meat, and veggie fillings. (Pancakes 30-55EEK. Open daily 11am-midnight or 1am. Cash only.) Eesti Maja , Pikk Jalg 9, serves crepes, sandwiches, and savory pies on dishes made in the adjoining ceramics studio. (www.bogapott.ee. Sandwiches 22EEK; crepes 40EEK; pies 10EEK. Open daily 10am-6pm. MC/V.) For a quiet place to read that novel while you eat, head to the cafe in the National Library, Tõnismägi 2. On a cold day, try the puljong (20EEK), a light soup made with water and boiled meat. (Sandwiches about 11EEK, salads about 16EEK. Wi-Fi. Open Sept.-June M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 11am-7pm; July-Aug. daily 10am-8pm.)
All-Linn (Lower Town). Head up Viru to reach Raekoja plats, where vendors sell everything from wizard hats to sweaters, and musicians perform throughout the summer. Tallinn’s town hall, Europe’s oldest, is right on the square. The museum inside details daily life in medieval Tallinn. Next door is a tower with one of the world’s tallest toilets (77m), built so guards could relieve themselves without descending. (Town hall open July-Aug. M-Sa 10am-4pm. 40EEK, students 25EEK. Tower open June-Aug. daily 11am-6pm. 30EEK, students 15EEK. Cash only.) Take Mündi from the square, turn right on Pühavaimu, and then right on Vene to reach Katariinan Käytävä, an alley lined with galleries and cafes. At the north end of All-linn , the tower of St. Olaf’s Church offers such a great view of the Old Town that the KGB used it as an observation post. (Lai 50. Open daily Apr.-Oct. 10am-6pm. Services M and F 6:30pm, Su 10am and noon. Church free. Tower 30EEK, students 15EEK. Cash only.)
Toompea. Toompea’s Lossi plats (Castle Square) is dominated by the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. (From Raekoja pl., head down Kullassepa, right on Niguliste, and uphill on Lühike jalg. Open daily 8am-6:30pm. Services 9am.) Dome Church, the oldest in Estonia, towers over the hill. Over 300 barons are buried just inches below the floor; their intricately carved wooden family crests line the walls of the church. Walk south on Toompea from Lossi pl. to the Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom, which documents Estonia’s repression by the Germans and Soviets. (Open Tu-Su 11am-6pm. 10EEK, students 5EEK. Cash only.)
Kadriorg. Peter the Great’s Kadriorg Palace lies in Kadriorg Park. Its sumptuous grand hall is a stunning example of Baroque architecture, and the palace houses a lovely art collection. The Mikkel Museum is also on these grounds. The Peter the Great House Museum holds many of the tsar’s original furnishings, as well as an imprint of his extremely large hand. (Mäekalda 2. Palace open May-Sept. Tu-W and F-Su 10am-5pm, Th 10am-9pm; Oct.-Apr. W-Su 10am-5pm. 45EEK, students 35EEK. Mikkel Museum open May-Sept. W and F-Su 10am-9pm; Oct.-Apr. W-Su 10am-5pm. 25/10EEK. House Museum open mid-May to Sept. W-Su 10:30am-5pm. 15/10EEK. MC/V.) At the opposite end of the park from the tram stop is the main branch of the Art Museum of Estonia. (Weizenbergi 34. www.ekm.ee. Open May-Sept. Tu-Su 11am-6pm; Oct.-Apr. W-Su 11am-6pm. Contemporary art 30EEK, permanent exhibition 55EEK, combined ticket 75EEK. Free admission once a month; see website for specific dates. MC/V.)
Pick up a free copy of Tallinn This Week at the tourist office. The Estonia Concert Hall and the Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia) are both at Estonia pst. 4. (Opera ☎683 1260; www.opera.ee. Opera box office open daily 11am-7pm. Tickets 50-350EEK. MC/V.) Celebrate the power of barley in early July at Beersummer (www.ollesummer.ee). In the middle of December, the international Dark Nights Film Festival (www.poff.ee) showcases cinematic talent. Depeche Mode Baar, Nomme 4, plays all Depeche Mode, all day long and serves mixed drinks (40-80EEK) named after their songs. (www.edmfk.ee/dmbaar. 0.5L beer 45EEK. Open daily noon-4am. Cash only.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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