Tartu Overview

The second largest city in Estonia, Tartu (pop. 100,000) is home to Tartu University (Tartu Ülikool). Historic spots like Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square) and a population of bustling college students give Tartu its vibrant atmosphere.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Buses (☎747 7227) leave from Turu 2, 300m southeast of Raekoja Plats, for Pärnu (2hr., 20 per day, 130EEK), Tallinn (2-3hr., 46 per day, 130-140EEK), and Rīga, LAT (5hr., 2 per day, 200EEK). Trains (☎761 56 851), generally less reliable than buses, depart from the intersection of Kuperjanovi and Vaksali for Tallinn (2-3hr., 3 per day, 95-140EEK). Exchange currency at Tavid, on Rüütli. The tourist office, located in the town hall, Raekoja Plats 14, offers free Internet. (☎744 2111; www.visittartu.com. Open mid-Sept. to mid-May M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-3pm; mid-May to mid-Sept. M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm.) Postal Code: 51001.

Accommodations And Food.  Hostel Terviseks , Ülikooli 1, is barely a minute away from Raekoja Plats. The apartment style set-up, spacious bathroom, and light complimentary breakfast make this place comfortable and homey. (☎5353 1153. 6-bed and 8-bed mixed dorms 260EEK. Shared bath. Free Wi-Fi.) The university dorms at   Hostel Raatuse , Küütri 3. (☎744 2085. Pizza and other entrees 50-100EEK. Open M-F 9am-midnight, Sa 10am-1am, Su 11am-11pm.)

Sights And Nightlife. In Raekoja Plats (Town Hall Square), the building that houses the Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) leans a little to the left—just like the student population. (Open W-Su 11am-6pm. 30EEK, students 12EEK. Ground floor 15/7EEK. F free. Cash only.) In the attic of Tartu University’s main building, students were once held in a lock-up (kartser) for a list of offenses, including failing to return library books; their drawings and inscriptions are still visible. (Open M-F 11am-5pm. 5EEK. Cash only.) On Rüütli, Tartu’s oldest street, waitresses zip about with beer mugs. Among the cafes and pubs, look for Ruum and Raamat, two linked shops with Indian crafts and used books. (Rüüstli 12. Open daily 10am-6pm.) Children and the young at heart will find the Tartu Toy Museum, 8 Lutsu, an engaging spot. The cheerful cottage displays dolls, puppets, and other toys from the 19th century to the present. (☎736 1550; www.mm.ee. Open W-Su 11am-6pm. 25EEK, students 20EEK.) Climb up the extremely narrow steeple of Jaani Church (Jaanir Kirik) for a decent view of the area, but be careful not to scrape your elbows in the process. (Tu-Sa 10am-7pm. Open Su only for service 11am-12:30pm. 25EEK, students 15EEK.) The dignified Wilde Irish Pub, Vallikraavi 4, attracts a middle-aged crowd. (Entrees 75-200EEK. Open M-Tu and Su noon-midnight, W-Th noon-1am, F-Sa noon-2am. Live bands F-Sa. Salsa night W. MC/V.)

Daytrip From Tartu: Viljandi. A curious mesh of city malls and castle ruins, hilly Viljandi (pop. 19,900) is at its best in summer during the Hansa Days. Held in early June, this lively celebration commemorates Viljandi’s days as a member of the medieval training guild, the Hanseatic League. Folk music concerts, open air markets, and people in traditional dress make the town pulse with earthy energy. The unrivalled highlight any time of year is the ruined castle built by the Order of the Knights of the Sword. The view of Viljandi Lake from the castle is a must-see—and it’s free. Behind the castle, walk across the wooden bridge over a serene valley. In late July, keep an eye (and an ear) out for the Viljandi Folk Music Festival, which draws crowds from around the country.

Cheap beds are hard to come by, but buses to Tartu are fast and frequent, making Viljandi an excellent daytrip. If you’d like to stay the night, try Hostel Ingeri , Tallinna 8, near the intersection of Tartu and Tallinna, may be your best bet. (☎43 33 906. Entrees 40-60EEK).

Buses run from Tartu to Viljandi (1hr., 1 per hr., 70EEK.) The tourist information center is at Vabaduse Plats 6. (☎43 30 442. Open in summer M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm; in winter M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-2pm.) Postal code: 71020.