Hiiumaa Overview

By restricting access to Hiiumaa (pop. 11,000) for 50 years, the Soviets unwittingly preserved the island’s rare wildlife and scenery. Creek-laced Kärdla (pop. 4000) is Hiiumaa’s biggest town. To explore the sights along the coast, rent a bike (150EEK per day) from Priit Tikka, which will deliver anywhere on the island (☎5660 6377. Cash only.) Bike west from Kärdla toward Kõrgessaare to the chilling Hill of Crosses (Ristimägi; 6km). About 2km past that, a right turn leads to the cast-iron Tahkuna Lighthouse (11km). Back on the main road, turn right again toward Kõrgessaare; continue 20km past the town to reach the impressive 16th-century Kõpu Lighthouse. (25EEK, students 15EEK. Cash only.) Local buses (3-4 per day, 14EEK) run to the town of Kaina, an ideal base for exploring the island of Kassari, attached to Hiiumaa by a land bridge. From Kaina, biking either east or west on Highway 83 will lead you to the 15km loop that runs through Kassari. On Kassari’s southern tip is the   Sääretirp peninsula, where pine and juniper bushes give way to a windswept rocky promontory.

Eesti Posti Hostel , Keskväljak 5, is a local haunt. (Entrees 35-85EEK. Open daily 9am-9pm. Cash only.)

Direct buses run from Sadama 13 (☎463 2077), north of Kärdla’s main square, Keskväljak, to Tallinn (4hr.; 2-3 per day; 160EEK,15% student discount, except in summer. Cash only). Public transportation on both Hiiumaa and Saaremaa is sparse; be sure to plan journeys ahead to avoid missing the few buses and ferries. There are two tourist offices on the island, one in Heltermaa (☎463 1001), and a bigger one in Kärdla. The Kärdla office, Hiiu 1, passes out free maps and bus schedules and sells   The Lighthouse Tour (25EEK), a guide to sights with local legends. (☎462 2232; www.hiiumaa.ee. Open May to mid-Sept. M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm; mid-Sept. to Apr. M-F 9am-5pm. Cash only.) The cultural center, Rookopli 18, has free Internet, and the town center has free Wi-Fi.