Coromandel Peninsula Overview

Isolated, if not entirely removed from the tourist loop, this idyllic peninsula harbors some of the best of North Island’s natural beauty. The towns along the Coromandel first rose out of the dust of 19th-century gold mining and kauri logging. Since the 1960s, when potters and hippies moved here in search of communal bliss, the area has flourished as a refuge for artists, retirees, and surfers. Thames, more than just a transport gateway to the southwest, provides historical anecdotes, necessary conveniences for heading up the northern coast, and its own wonders. Here, the Firth (a narrow inlet of the sea) gently curves up to the artisan town of Coromandel and then to the wild Coromandel Walkway. The west coast showcases some of the most scenic, inviting, and secluded beaches the country has to offer. While the peninsula is packed with Aucklanders and other Kiwis during holidays (avoid it altogether right after Christmas), there are no tour buses, no crowds, and no worries for most of the year.

Transportation In The Coromandel

• Flights: Great Barrier Airlines (☎0800 900 600; www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz) flies from Whitianga to Auckland (30min.; 1 per day F, Su; $99 one-way) and Great Barrier Island (30min.; 1 per day F, Su; $99 one-way).
• Buses: Travelers without private transportation should consider buying a Pacific Coast Highway Pass from Intercity. The pass covers fare to Auckland, the Coromandel Peninsula loop, Tauranga, Rotorua, Whakatane, Gisborne, Napier, Palmerston North, and Wellington, conveniently skipping 8hr. of East Cape coastline. (The Pacific Coast Highway loop runs daily Oct.-Apr.; May-Sept. Su-F. $209, Book each leg the day before.)
• Shuttles: Go Kiwi Shuttles (☎07 866 0336 or 0800 446 549; www.go-kiwi.co.nz) services the eastern peninsula to and from downtown Auckland and the airport. The Auckland service ($46-70) leaves Whitianga at 7:30am and Thames at 9:20am, arriving downtown at 11:45am. Go Kiwi Flexi Passes are valid for 30 days and offer one-way transport through Auckland, Paihia, Whitianga, Coromadel town, Thames, Tauranga, Rotorua, and Hamilton.
• Cars: Most roads are paved and in good repair but have harrowingly narrow shoulders, steep drop-offs, and hairpin turns. Unpaved roads up the Kauaeranga Valley, north to Fletcher Bay, and across the peninsula require caution and patience. A vehicle with 4WD doesn’t hurt. Be sure to check your rental agreement carefully for restrictions on driving in the Coromandel. The only gas north of Coromandel town is in Colville.
• Bikes: The ride to Coromandel town from Thames is a solid 4-5hr. drive with additional 2-3hr. segments up to Colville and Fletcher Bay. The biking past Colville is difficult and remote. Instead of doubling back, cyclists with appropriate tires can investigate the single-track to Stony Bay and continuing down the east coast. The entire peninsula loop requires 3-5 days. Gateway Backpackers, 209 Mackay St. (☎868 6339), in Thames, rents 21-speed mountain bikes with all necessary gear ($30 per day). Tidewater Tourist Park, 270 Tiki Rd. (☎866 8888), in Coromandel town, also rents mountain bikes for $20 per day. Other bike rental outfitters are listed by town.
• Hitchhiking: Although Let’s Go does not recommend it, hitching between the major towns is reportedly easy. Thumbers report long waits from some of the smaller towns (Hahei, Opoutere); arranging a ride back is advisable.