Home to one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Europe, Leiden (pop. 120,000) brims with bookstores, gated gardens, windmills, and some truly outstanding museums. The prized Museum Naturalis, Darwinweg 2, brings natural history to life through an array of stunning exhibits of animals, plants, minerals, rocks, and fossils—all brilliantly explained in English and Dutch. (☎071 568 7600; www.naturalis.nl. Open July-Aug. daily 10am-6pm; Sept.-June Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. €9, ages 4-12 €5, ages 13-17 €6, under 4 free; after July 1 €11, ages 13-17 €9, ages 4-12 €7.) The Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, Rapenburg 28, focuses on the cultures of Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome, as well as the ancient beginnings of the Netherlands, showcasing everything from mummies and sarcophagi to outstanding Dutch artifacts from the Roman Empire. (☎071 516 3163; www.rmo.nl. Open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. €8.50, ages 4-17 €5.50, over 65 €7.50.) Stedelijk Museum De Lakenhal Leiden, Oude Singel 28-32, smaller than the national museums, is housed in the former cloth hall that was vital to Leiden’s economic development as one of Europe’s textile centers. It provides a glimpse into the history and development of the city through masterpieces by Rembrandt van Rijn, Lucas van Leyden, and Jan Steen. (☎071 516 5360; www.lakenhal.nl. Open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su noon-5pm. €4, over 65 €2.50, under 18 free.) The collection of Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde, Steenstr. 1, holds more than 200,000 artifacts depicting the dress, customs, and artwork of myriad indigenous cultures. (☎071 516 8800; www.volkenkunde.nl. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. €7.50, ages 4-12 and over 65 €4.) For a mind-blowingly fun time, scale the steep staircases to the top of De Valk, 2eBinnenvestgr. 1, the seven-story windmill-turned-museum that was built for use in 1743. (☎071 516 5353; www.molenmuseumdevalk.nl. Closed Jan.-Mar. 20. Open Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. Su 1-5pm, €3, ages 6-15 and over 65 €1.70).
Your best bet for lodging is Hotel Pension Witte Singel , Witte Singel 80. The guesthouse has a series of large, well-appointed, immaculate rooms with excellent views overlooking Leiden’s gorgeous gardens and canals. (☎071 512 4592; www.pension-ws.demon.nl. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Singles €46; doubles €67-89. MC/V; 2% surcharge.) The restaurant and cafe Annie’s Verjaardag , Hoogstr. 1A, is a favorite with locals and students. During the day, choose from a selection of salads and sandwiches (€3-9). Pick one of the reasonably priced entrees (€13-16), or just stop by for a drink in the evening. (☎071 512 5737. Open M-Th and Su noon-1am, F noon-2am, Sa 11am-2am. MC/V.) Assiduously study the latest academic theories while sipping drinks at the popular student cafe Einstein , Nieuwe Rijn 19 (☎071 512 5370).
Trains head to Leiden’s slick, translucent Centraal Station from Amsterdam (35min., 8 per hr., €7.90) and The Hague (15min., 6 per hr., €3.20). To get to the VVV, the information center, Stationsweg 2D, walk for five minutes on Stationsweg from the train station’s south exit toward the city center. The office sells maps and brochures (€2-5) and can help find hotel rooms (€2.30 fee for 1 person, €1.80 for each additional person). Ask about Leiden’s walking tours. (☎071 516 1211; www.hollandrijnland.nl. Open M 11am-5:30pm, Tu-F 9:30am-5:30pm, Sa 10am-4:30pm; Apr.-Aug. also Su 11am-3pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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