Paris Montparnasse (14ème, 15ème)

The Montparnasse area is home to two of Paris's most celebrated institutions, the Catacombs and the Cité Universitaire, and one of its most profitable tourist areas, Montparnasse Bienvenue.While the 14th arrondissement has historically been home to a trendy bohemian crowd (especially in the 1920s), the 15ème is generally residential and less exciting. Your key objective here is to avoid getting dragged into the touristy vortex of Montparnasse—you'll get fleeced by obnoxiously expensive restaurants and tourist outlets, and you'll think that Parisians are even snootier than they actually are (it's a behavioral conditioning thing; dealing with tourists all day, by definition, reinforces the satisfaction of being snooty).

One of Paris's more dynamic neighborhoods, the 14ème provides all the things any self-respecting arrondissement has to offer: a fairly diverse population, fantastic local restaurants, neighborhood specialty shops, leafy parks, mischievous children, and drunks. We recommend staying on the Metro's line 4 past Montparnasse and hopping off at Denfert, or, better yet, Mouton Duvernet. Check out the open-air markets on rue Daguerre, or stroll down Avenue René Coty, and go strike up a conversation on the grande pelouse at the Cité Universitaire. The 15ème isn't that exciting after hours, and doesn't boast much excitement in terms of people watching, unless you enjoy seeing women struggle to carry the fruits of their daily labor (read: Cartier, Dior, and Kooples bags). But the area does boast some of Paris's best-priced fine dining (Le Troquet, Le Dix Vins) and a somewhat vibrant nighttime bar scene on Bld. Pasteur. Stick a baguette in your bag, a cigarette in your mouth, a copy of Le Monde (or, if you're for Sarkozy, Le Figaro) under your arm, and hit the road.

More Neighborhoods in Paris

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