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Paris:



Île De La Cité

The islands are crowded with tiny, traditional French restaurants with wood-paneled dining rooms and old-world charm, a vibe they pride themselves upon. Be warned, however, particularly on the Île St-Louis, that it’s often an act. These restaurants cater largely to tourists, so expect to pay more than you would for an equivalent meal on the mainland—or just settle for some ice cream.

  • Le Caveau du Palais, 17-19 pl. Dauphine, Île de la Cité (☎01 43 26 04 28). Cité. Serves up hearty French fare like foie gras to côte de boeuf. An elegant dining room characterized by timbered ceilings and stone walls. Well-heeled locals crowd the terrace in the summer. The meat-heavy menu is pricey but worth the splurge. Entrées €9-20. Plats €18-50. Open M-F noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Reservations necessary for dinner and recommended for lunch. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Quai Quai, 74 quai des Orfèvres, Île de la Cité (☎01 46 33 69 75). Pont Neuf. The hip new-kid-on-the-Île opened by a popular group of restauranteurs. Modern and inventive decor, characterized by plush cushions, is well-suited to the creative-take-on-traditional cuisine. Entrées €9-14. Plats €15-26. Open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7-10pm.
  • Au Rendez-Vous des Camionneurs, 72 quai d’Orfèvres, Île de la Cité (☎01 43 54 88 74). Cité. Faces the Left Bank. Standard French fare, Italian decor, and a hearty sense of humor. €19 lunch menu (M-Sa) is a great deal. Meat and fish plats €19-20. Dinner menu €26. Open daily noon-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Cafes

  • Place Numéro Thé, 20 pl. Dauphine, Île de la Cité (☎01 44 07 28 17). Cité. A tiny, tastefully casual restaurant- salon de thé with a terrace looking out onto the calm, tree-lined pl. Dauphine. Light lunch fare and noteworthy desserts such as the coulis with fromage blanc (€5). Also has an array of exotic teas (€5). Chocolat chaud à l’ancienne €6. Open M-Tu and Th-F noon-5:30pm. MC/V.
  • Le Petit Plateau, 1 quai aux Fleurs, Île de la Cité (☎01 44 07 61 86). Cité. A cute, bright salon de thé overlooking Pont Marie. Not yet overrun by tourists. Fresh tartes and salads. Lunch formules €11-15. Tea-time formule €6 (includes pastry and coffee or tea). Open M-Sa 10am-7pm in summer, M-Sa 10am-6pm in winter. AmEx/MC/V.



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