Paris île De La Cité And île St-louis

The islands are dotted with traditional dimly lit French restaurants, ideal for the couples who walk hand in hand down the quais. But the old heart of Paris is now the tourist center of Paris, and a romantic meal here comes at a price. Expect to pay more than you would for an equivalent meal on the mainland—or just settle for some ice cream. Île St-Louis is perhaps the best place in Paris to stop for a crêpe or a cool treat while strolling along the Seine. And until you're rolling in dough, or dating someone who is, a snack will have to do.

Berthillon, 31 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île (☎01 43 54 31 61), You just can't leave Paris without having a bit of this ice cream. The family-run institution has been doing brilliant marketing work since 1954, but it's not all false advertising; Berthillon delivers with dozens of flavors that cater to your every craving. If you can't stand the epic lines, you can get pints of the same stuff at nearby stores. Pont Neuf. Single scoop €2.20. Two scoops €3.40. Three scoops €4.80. Open from Sept-mid-July W-Su 10am-8pm. Closed 2 weeks in Feb and Apr.
Cafe Med, 77 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île (☎01 43 29 73 17), There may not be doctors in attendance, but they'll fill that hole in your stomach and won't charge you an arm and a leg for your visit. One of the cheapest and most charming options on the isle. The 3-course menu at €9.90 is an astonishing deal. Pont Marie. 3-course menus at €9.90, €10,50, €13.90, €19.90. Weekend special tea €6. Open M-F 11am-3:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Open 11am-10:30pm Sa-Su and holidays. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Brasserie de l'Isle St-Louis, 55 quai de Bourbon (☎01 43 54 02 59), An old-fashioned brasserie that manages to feel just a tad bit inauthentic, with red checkered napkins and closely packed wooden tables. This island institution is known for regional specialties like southern cassoulet (a casserole dish of meat and beans; €18), which keep the Frenchmen coming. Outdoor quaiseating with a view of the Panthéon makes up for the number of tourists dining here. Pont Marie. Entrees €6-10. Plats €17-45. Desserts €7-11. Open M-T and Su, Th-Sa noon-11pm. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Auberge de la Reine Blanche, 30 rue St.Louis-en-l'Île (☎01 46 33 07 87), Miniature wooden chairs, bronze pans, and peasant dolls decorate the shelves, walls, and corners as subdued customers enjoy two to three course meals. Standard French dishes and simple salads featured on the menu. Pont Marie. Menu available in English. 2 course lunch €15.50, dinner €19.50; 3 courses €19.50/25. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm. Takes credit cards.
La Petite Scierie, 60 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île (☎01 55 42 14 88; www.laPetitescierie.fr), Committed to true French artisanry, Cathérine Duoy makes all products by hand, schlepping around the animal fat herself on a local farm. Her high-quality specialties have been sold on the isle for the last 25 years, and can be tasted on little baguettes with a shot of wine. The traditional foie-gras (180g €32; 320g €60) need not be refrigerated for two years. Takes credit cards.
Amorino, 47 rue St-Louis-en-l'Île (☎01 44 07 48 08; www.amorino.com), Seducing the child in you, Amorino does gelato right. Serves exceedingly rich concoctions in much more generous portions than Berthillon. Sizes go up all the way to grandissimo. Approach with caution; it's a lot to handle. Does not take credit cards.
Les Fous de l'Île, 33 rue des Deux Ponts (☎01 43 25 76 67; www.lesfousdelile.com), This quirky neighborhood bistro boasts a menu with the workings of a French feast. Playing on some inside joke about chickens, the restaurant is completely decorated with poultry parapharnelia. Takes credit cards. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
Ma Salle à Manger, 26 pl. Dauphine (☎01 43 29 52 34), A no-fuss, lovable restaurant tucked away at the edge of the square. Traditional dishes with the occasional Italian or Spanish influence served by the occasionally Italian or Spanish waitstaff. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Quai Quai, 74 quai des Orfèvres (☎01 46 33 69 75), Exuding glamorous grit, the food here is good but served in the kind of portions skinny people like and hungry travelers don't. The trendy, underground location is tourist-free, but you'll be paying for the peace and quiet. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Le Caveau du Palais, 17-19 pl. Dauphine (☎01 43 26 04 28; caveaudupalais@wanadoo.fr), A mostly older, local clientele enjoys a meat-heavy menu, happily forgetting the dangers of arteriosclerosis in an elegant dining room. Rich French food is slightly more expensive but high on quality. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Le Petit Plateau, 1 quai aux Fleurs 01 44 07 61 86 Le Petit Plateau is not in plain view of the Notre Dame, so most tourists naturally skip over this cute salon de thé. It has a light lunch fare and a dessert selection at a price Parisians would pay. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Bruschet Caffe, 20 pl. Dauphine 01 44 07 28 17 A cafe de luxe with reasonably priced, light lunch fare (€12). Menu is fairly limited and generally unimpressive, but it's the cheapest option around the square. Pont Neuf. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.