Paris Île St-Louis

Île St-Louis is perhaps the best place in Paris to stop for a crêpe or some ice cream while strolling along the Seine. This isn’t the spot for anything more formal (it’s about place, not taste), but this is a snacker’s heaven.

Berthillon, 31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 43 54 31 61). Cité or Pont Marie. Reputed to have the best ice cream and sorbet in Paris. While Amorino is a worthy competitor, Berthillon has still been a family-run Île St-Louis institution since 1954. Choose from dozens of parfums, ranging from blood orange to gingerbread to the house specialty, nougat miel (honey nougat). Look for stores nearby that sell Berthillon treats; the wait is shorter, they usually offer a wider selection of flavors, and they’re open in late July and Aug. when the main outfit is closed. Single scoop €2; double €3; triple €4. Open Sept. to mid-July W-Su 10am-8pm. Closed 2 weeks in Feb. and Apr.
Amorino, 47 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 44 07 48 08; www.amorino.fr/boutiques.htm). Pont Marie. Cross the Pont Marie and turn right on rue St-Louis-en-l’Île. As a Paris chain, Amorinos are a dime a dozen, but even so, it's delicious. With a selection of over 20 gelati and sorbetti flavors (including nutella sensation l’Inimitable ), Amorino serves amazingly creamy concoctions in more generous servings than its more famous neighbor, Berthillon. Your cup (€3-8) or cone (€3-5) will look like a work of art. Open daily noon-11pm. 22 other locations around the city.
Brasserie de l’Île St-Louis, 55 quai de Bourbon, Île St-Louis (☎01 43 54 02 59). Pont Marie. Cross the Pont Marie and turn right on rue St-Louis-en-l’Île; continue to the end of the island. This old-fashioned brasserie and island institution is known for its delectable Alsatian specialties, such as choucroute garnie (sausages and pork on a bed of sauerkraut; €18) as well as regional dishes like southern cassoulet (a casserole dish of meat and beans; €18). Also features an array of omelettes and typical cafe fare (€7-30). Outdoor quai seating with a view of the Panthéon through the Left Bank rooftops. Open daily noon-midnight. MC/V over €15.
Les Fous de l’Île, 33 rue des Deux Ponts, Île St-Louis (☎01 43 25 76 67). Pont Marie. A relaxed neighborhood bistro with a sense of humor; outfitted in everything from wine corks to Impressionist paintings to sculptures of Disney characters. Caters to the neighborhood crowd. Serves an array of dishes, from spaghetti with meatballs to noix de St-Jacques (scallops). Displays the work of local artists and has evening concerts (jazz, pop, piano, rock) every Th except in Aug. Entrées €9. Plats €14. Lunch menus €15-19; dinner menus €19-25. Open W noon-3pm and Th-Sa noon-11pm.
Café Med, 79 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 43 29 73 17). Pont Marie. Cross the Pont Marie and turn right on rue St-Louis-en-l’Île; the restaurant is on the left. A small, red stucco restaurant that serves tasty crêpes , salads, and other French fare. For an island establishment, its prices and quality are hard to beat. Salads €9-10. Generous 3-course menus €10/11/13/20. Open daily noon-2pm and 6-9pm. MC/V.

L’Épicerie, 51 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 43 25 20 14). Creative concoctions (everything from foie gras to mustard) and over 80 types of tea, line the walls of this tiny store. Perfumed sugars (€5), infused olive oils (€8), and variety of jams (€8) make perfect presents. Past patrons include Bill Clinton. Open daily 11am-9pm. MC/V.
La Petite Scierie, 60 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 55 42 14 88). Pont Marie. Foie gras, rilettes, quail eggs, and other house specialties and preserves are naturally prepared on a local farm. The owner has been selling her product on the Île for the last 25 years and is happy to offer tastings; a lunch deal of foie gras on a baguette with a glass of white wine is just €8. Open M and Th-Su 11am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.
O&CO, 81 rue St Louis en l’Île, Île St-Louis (☎01 40 46 89 37; www.oliviersandco.net). This Provençale company sells high-quality olive oils made in France. Olives are harvested from farms in Provence, Italy, Morocco, Portugal, Spain, and Tunisia. Gifts can be wrapped to make it safely home. Bottles range from €6-12. Also sells olive, fruit, and herb spreads, along with other gourmet food products and olive oil-related cooking accessories. 9 other branches around the city; most open M-Sa 10am-8pm.