Paris The Marais

Though at times it can feel like eating in the 4ème is less about food and more about how you look eating it, there are a number of quality restaurants here, specializing in everything from regional French cuisine to New Age fusion. This is not the cheapest place to lunch, but if you're ready for a bit of a splurge, your appetite will be more than sated here, even if your bank account is not. Satisfy them both with the unbeatable lunchtime menus, or by grabbing a sandwich from Le Gay Choc or a falafel on rue des Rosiers for €5. If you decide on dinner, make sure you make a reservation at the hotter venues. Dozens of charming bistros line rue St-Martin, and kosher food stands and restaurants are located around rue du Vertbois and rue Volta.

Chez Janou, 2 rue Roger Verlomme (☎01 42 72 28 41; www.chezjanou.com), The food is so good here it inspires desert-island hypotheticals: if you were stranded on a desert island, would you bring an endless supply of Chez Janou's magret de canard or the best lover you've ever had? It's a tough one. Tucked into a quiet corner of the 3ème, this Provençale bistro serves affordable ambrosia to a mixed crowd of enthusiasts. The chocolate mousse (€6.60) is brought in an enormous self-serve bowl, though Parisians count on self-control. Over 80 kinds of pastis. Chemin-Vert. Reservations always recommended, as this local favorite is packed every night of the week. Entrées start at €8.50, plats start at €14 . Open daily noon-midnight. Food served M-F noon-3pm and 7:45pm-midnight, Sa-Su noon-4pm and 7:45pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Robert and Louise, 64 rue Vieille du Temple (☎01 42 78 55 89; www.robertetlouise.com), Defined by a firm belief that chicken is for pansies (let's not even talk about vegetarians), Robert and Louise offers a menu that's wholeheartedly carnivorous—we're talking veal kidneys, steak, prime rib, lamb chops. The only concession to white meat is their confit de canard. Juicy slabs are grilled in the open wood-fire oven and then served up on cutting boards. There's a definite homey vibe here; you'll feel like you've been given shelter by a generous French family who found you abandoned and shivering when they were coming back from a hunt. St-Paul or Files du Calvaire. Entrées €5-16. Plats €8-18. Desserts €5-6. Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7-11pm. Reservations recommended. Takes credit cards.
Marché des Enfants Rouges, 39 rue de Bretagne The oldest covered market in Paris, The Marché des Enfants Rouges originally earned its seemingly politically incorrect name (“market of the red children”?) by providing shelter for orphans. The market is now a famous foodie paradise of hidden restaurants and chaotic stands. Comb through an eclectic selection of produce, cheese, bread and wine, not to mention Japanese, Middle Eastern, Afro-Caribbean, and every other variety of ethnic cuisine. Parisians often duck in for lunch at one of the wooden tables, which are heated in the winter. The wine bar in the upper right-hand corner, L'Estaminet, is airy, relaxed, and offers some cheap glasses (€3-3.50) and bottles (€5-25). Filles du Calvaire or Arts et Métiers. Wine by the glass, €3-€3.50. Open Tu-Th 9am-2pm and 4-8pm, F-Sa 9am-8pm, Su 9am-2pm. Takes credit cards.
Equinox, rue des Rosiers (☎01 40 41 95 03), After the falafel storm on rue des Rosiers, Equinox comes as a welcome respite. Traditional French fare and a few crowd-pleasers (ahem, pasta and salads) are served in a warmly lit, charming stone dining room. For the price of three falafel specials, the 3-course lunch or dinner meal comes at an unbeatable €15. St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville. Entrees €7.14.50. Plats €12-17. Lunch M-Sa noon-3pm. Sunday brunch Noon-3pm. Takes credit cards.
404, 69 rue des Gravilliers 01 42 74 57 81 (www.404-resto.com), A plain stone facade masks this hot restaurant of the moment—a sophisticated family-owned Maghreb restaurant specializing in mouthwatering couscous (€15-24) and tagines (€15-19). The romantic, rich decor of deep-red curtains and dark carved wood makes for mood dining, day or night. Seating in the airy, casual terrace in the back during lunchtime is particularly pleasant. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
Page 35, 4 rue du Parc Royal (☎01 44 54 35 35; www.restaurant-page35.com), Owned by a triad of very accommodating gentlemen, this hip, modern art gallery-restaurant-crêperie sums up the spirit of the Marais with its extensive menu of light, fresh, and creative fare. Hordes of tourists come for the beautifully presented buckwheat crêpes (€10-15), French favorites (confit de canard; €15) and salads (€10-16). The dessert crêpes are fantastic; try the the melt-in-your-mouth crêpe au salidou (made with salted butter caramel; €7.50). Theophile Gautier once lived in this historic storefront. Takes credit cards.
Georges, Centre Pompidou, 6th fl. (☎01 44 78 47 99), Cafe Georges is almost more impressive than the museum—almost. Between its steel design, aluminum and spleen-shaped party rooms, and pastel accents, the interior of the cafe itself is a true artistic experience only surpassed by the Parisian skyline; the view from the rooftop terrace is unbeatable. Dinner here may be unaffordable (plats €16-40), but you'll have a better (and cheaper) time drinking a glass of wine or champagne (€8-12). The menu was designed by Dior menswear creator Hedi Slimane, so dress to impress. Takes credit cards.
Palais des Thés, 64 rue Vieille du Temple 01 48 87 80 60 Selling organic teas collected by the owners from 20 countries in Asia, Africa, and South America, the Palais has become a worthy rival of long-standing local tea fave, Mariage Frères, and as an added bonus fosters a less colonial vibe; all teas are fair trade, and the owners regulate estate working conditions. They may not have a salon de thé, but they do have over 200 teas, beautiful teapots (€40-165), and a welcoming, racially diverse staff eager to send you home with the perfect tea. Occasional free samples. Takes credit cards.
L'As du Falafel, 34 rue des Rosiers (☎01 48 87 63 60), Allegedly proclaimed “the best falafel in the world” by Lenny Kravitz and more modestly dubbed “the best in Paris” by its shouting employees, this kosher stand has become a landmark. Patrons line up outside for the famous “falafel special” (€5)—which, by the time you factor the balls in, is too big to fit in your mouth. Grab a fork if you're eating out. Takes credit cards.
Le Gay Choc, 17 rue des Archives and 45 Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie (☎01 48 87 56 88; www.legaychoc.fr), A boulangerie with flare, and amazingly delicious goodies to eat. Le Gay Choc takes the idea of food as foreplay literally. Creative concoctions include honey and almond muesli loaf (€2-3), gooey fondant au chocolat (€2), and melt-in-your-mouth cookies (€1). Employees joke that you have to be 18 or older to see the pain magique (€2), which is shaped like a penis, naturally. The only Marais boulangerie open on Sunday. Takes credit cards.
Caves St-Gilles, 4 rue St-Gilles (☎01 48 87 22 62; www.caves-saint-gilles.fr), A Spanish-style bistro outfitted with a mosaic tile floor, small wooden tables, checkered tablecloths, and a flamenco playlist. The menu is all vino and generous, filling portions of tapas (€5.50-19). The multilingual staff speaks French, Spanish, and English. Takes credit cards.
Taxi Jaune, 13 rue Chapon (☎01 42 76 00 40), A casual and convivial atmosphere as temporarily intimate as a taxicab draws a devoted crowd who delight in the creative and original dishes. Menu changes regularly according to the seasonal produce and the owner's whim. Has air conditioning.
Au Petit Fer à Cheval, 30 rue Vieille du Temple (☎01 42 72 47 47; www.cafeine.com), A small oasis of chèvre, kir, and Gauloises, graced by a low-key (but never boring) crowd of locals and expats. Tucked away behind the bar are a few wooden tables where you can order traditional French dishes. The tarte tatin is a house specialty (€8). Takes credit cards. Has air conditioning.
Pain Vin Fromage, 3 rue Geoffrey L'Angevin (☎01 42 74 07 52; painvinfromage.com), A cozy and rustic Parisian classic with heartily comforting fare. Fondues (€14-16), raclettes (€13.50-19), and croûtes compagnards (grilled breads with toppings; €11-19.50) are accompanied by a winning wine list. Takes credit cards.
Cru, 7 rue Charlemagne (☎01 40 27 81 84; www.restaurantcru.fr), Cru is a minimalist restaurant/bar in every sense, with a simple decor and not much in the way of cooking. The vegetables, meat, and fish here are expertly pureed, chopped, and sliced—and are always raw. The plat/verre deal (€8; 6-8:30pm) served at the bar and terrace is light on the plat, but it's a good way to get some food with a glass of wine. Courtyard is particularly pleasant. Takes credit cards. Has air conditioning.
Fuxia, 50 rue Francois Miron (☎01 42 72 22 74; www.fuxia.fr), This rustic-chic cafe-restaurant-caterer whips up Italian food that would make even fat mothers in Tuscany proud. Inventive pastas with veggies, fresh cheese, meat, or seafood (€9.50-17) are all made with the freshest of ingredients and a little va-va-voom. Deliciously huge salads are also available (€10-15); for the less calorie-conscious, decadent Italian delicacies include panna cotta, tiramisu, and crostata al cioccolata (chocolate tarte; €7). Fuxi also sells imported olive oils, wines, and pastas. Takes credit cards.
Breakfast in America, 4 rue Malher (☎01 42 72 40 21; www.breakfast-in-america.com), BIA promises to be one thing: “An American diner in Paris.” It delivers. From the shiny red booths to the delicious fries, shakes, bottomless mug o' joe, and the expected post-meal tips, it doesn't get more American than this. This is still Paris, of course, so the whole diner thing is classed up a bit. The delicious brunch includes an omelette or meat and eggs, a stack of pancakes, a muffin, a brownie, or a doughnut and yogurt, plus an espresso or bottomless mug o' joe with OJ (€15). Takes credit cards. Has internet.
Pink Flamingo, 105 rue Vieille du Temple (☎01 42 71 28 20), This new kid on the block bakes up gourmet pizzas with organic flour and entirely fresh ingredients. Ambitious topping combos include bacon and banana chutney (L'Obama; €14.50) and eggplants, red peppers, and hummus (L'Aphrodite; €13). Takes credit cards.
La Perla, 26 rue Francois Miron (☎01 42 77 59 40), An airy, colorful restaurant-bar that gives away free baskets of nachos but makes you pay for their specialty tequilas (€7.90-30). Traditional and modern Mexican food served non-stop, or, more accurately, between frozen margaritas (€9.40). Takes credit cards.
Chez Hanna, 54 rue des Rosiers (☎01 42 74 74 99), In the fierce falafel battle on rue des Rosiers, Hanna is a bit of a sore loser but better loved by locals beacuse of it. Whether their falafel is better than L'As de Falafel's is a matter of taste, but it's definitely a more pleasant place to eat. Takes credit cards.
Curieux Spaghetti Bar, 14 rue St-Merri (☎01 42 72 75 97; www.curieuxspag.com), A rainbow-themed restaurant and bar where the walls are multicolored, and the patrons feast on generous helpings of spaghetti, risotto, or gnocchi (€12-16). A techno and hip-hop soundtrack sizzles in the background. Takes credit cards.
Petit Bofinger, 6 rue de la Bastille (☎01 42 72 05 23; www.flobrasseries.com), The classic Parisian bistro experience: typically French cuisine in a refined atmosphere with uptight diners. But there's a reason Petit Bofinger attracts those with upturned noses: the worth-the-splurge prix-fixe menu (€19.50-26.50) includes wine and all the greatest hits of fine French cooking. Across the street, the original Bofinger attracts an even older crowd dressed to the nines. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Le Dôme Bastille, 2 rue de la Bastille (☎01 48 04 88 44), This elegant restaurant steams, grills, and bakes just about every type of fish for its refined patrons. Expect light, simple dishes of fresh poisson, like their dorade grilled with thyme (€23). Also serves a variety of desserts, such as tarte fine aux pommes (€7-8). Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Cafe Hugo, 22 pl. des Vosges (☎01 42 72 64 04; www.cafehugo.com), Named after the famous Romantic writer, this cafe gets Hugo's spirit right—it's all classic with a colorful flare. The only place on the pl. des Vosges to concede to affordability, and thus the only place whose patrons are under 60. The food is less remarkable than the atmosphere. Takes credit cards.
Breizh Café, 109 rue Vielle du Temple (☎01 42 74 13 77; www.breizhcafe.com), A rare find in many ways, this relaxed Breton crêperie is full of surprises. In a city full of duds, Breizh makes inexpensive and inventive crêpes with the highest quality ingredients (organic veggies, raw milk and cheeses, and normand sausage). In this extravagant and edgy quartier, Breizh offers a relaxed, welcoming, and understated atmosphere. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Royal Bar, 19 rue du Parc Royal (☎01 42 72 33 03), The walls at Royal Bar are lined with (tasteful) paintings of naked women and photos of Picasso, the artist who loved them; it's no surprise that people come here for dessert. The menu features delicious, homemade pastries (€6-7) and a decadent chocolat chaud or glacé with a small pot of chantilly; (whipped cream, €5-6). Be warned that the place can get quirky; the friendly owner runs it more like a hobby than a business. Does not take credit cards.
Café des Musées, 49 rue de Turenne (☎01 42 72 96 17), Part bar, part cafe, and part bistro, Café de Musées may be undergoing something of an identity crisis, but it draws a diverse crowd as a result; enjoy your entrée with businessmen finishing the workday, students with tattered backpacks, old couples enjoying morning coffee, and families out to dinner. The dishes here are mostly French with a creative twist. Takes credit cards. Has air conditioning.
Mariage Frères, 30 and 35 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (☎01 42 72 28 11; www.mariagefreres.com), Started by two brothers who thought British tea was shoddy, this salon de thé has become a French institution in which white-suited waiters and sophisticated clientele invoke the colonial days. The establishment offers 500 varieties of tea (€7-15 per 100g) and an in-house book detailing the history and uses of each. It also sells a wide variety of books and tea kettles. Takes credit cards.
Bubbles, 4 rue Malher (☎01 40 29 42 41), This “diet bar” is best known for its deliciously sweet smoothies (banana, cocoa, and Nutella €4.50) and its creative fruit juice concoctions (orange, carrot, and ginger €4.50). The very attractive waiters and waitresses swear by the the fresh soups and salads (€4-7) and hot dishes (€7.50-10.60), but you might want to take their success stories with a grain of salt. Takes credit cards.
Jadis et Gourmande, 39 rue des Archives (☎01 48 04 08 03), As if it weren't the Marais's Willy Wonka's already, Jadis et Gourmande takes chocolate beyond the realm of delicious and into the realm of edible art, sculpting chocolate into everything from Eiffel Towers to pencils. Typical conformist squares with nuts and other toppings are available for shape purists. Custom-order chocolate messages are also available. Takes credit cards.
My Berry, 25 Vieille du Temple (☎01 42 74 54 48; www.myberry.fr), It looks like the non-fat frozen yogurt craze has finally hopped the Pond. Based on the New York/LA shop Pinkberry, the yogurt at My Berry is just as delicious; light, tangy, and perfect with one of the many toppings. Mango, strawberry, kiwi, pineapple, granola, chocolate chips, almonds, and coconut are just some of the options. The perfect afternoon snack if you're willing to brave the lines on a hot day. Takes credit cards. Has internet.