Paris Opéra (9ème)

The Opéra district has a few classic food spots—Chartrier and Saveurs et Coincidences are particular favorites—but the area definitely suffered from the loss of one-of-a-kind restaurant Chez Haynes in 2009. Most of the high-quality, affordable options in the district are located in the St. Georges area.

Saveurs et Coincidences, 6 rue de Trévise (☎01 42 46 62 23; www.saveursetcoincidences.com), Saveurs et Coincidences maintains a small, charming dining room; in the summertime, a few tables are set up outdoors and the front windows are flung open, letting the air waft in. Recently purchased by expert chef Jean-Pierre Coroyer—a former semi-finalist in a national gastronomical competition—the new Saveurs et Coincidences combines traditional French cuisine with Japanese, Italian, and other global favors for a succulent and entirely unique collection of entrees. Ingredients are ridiculously fresh. According to the chef, the restaurant doesn't even have a fridge; ingredients are ordered and received from suppliers in the mornings, then sliced, diced and stewed the same day. This process costs Coroyer a good deal of returns, but he proudly declares that he isn't interested in ripping off his customers. It certainly shows in his prices which are incredibly lower than those at most cafes. The lunch formules are such a deal, it should be illegal; an entree, plat, dessert and cafe combo Grands Boulevards. Entrees €8.60. Plats €14.20. Desserts €7.50. Formules midi €16.90, €12.50, €10.40. Does not take credit cards.
Chartrier, 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre (☎47 70 86 29; www.restaurant-chartrier.com), Chartrier has served French traditional cuisine, en masse, since 1896, and remains a unique experience that is not to be missed. Think Cheesecake Factory meets Friendly's family vibe, without the plethoric portions (portions are a good size here, just not disgustingly huge). We recommend the tete de veau (that's sheep's head; €11.80), and then some classic profiteroles au chocolat chaud for dessert (€3.90). If you go alone, you'll be seated with somebody you don't know, which can either be a fantastic experience or a boring, very awkward one. Waiters provide rapid service and are patient with Americans, but only to a point; know what you want to order, because they've got their hands full. If you want to be guaranteed a table, we recommend getting here early—the line stretches about 200m around the block by 7:30pm. Grands Boulevards. Entrées €1.90-10.30. Plats €8.50-12.20. Desserts €2.20-4.50. Wine €6.50-34.00. Open daily 11:30am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Kastoori, 4 pl. Gustave Toudouze (☎47 70 86 29), Kastoori offers tasty, hearty Indian fare at a collection of tables on the lovely Place Toudouze; the indoor seating area is cozier, with plush chairs and couches in a small dining room that doubles as the kitchen. Pricewise, the place is a steal during the lunch hour, with a thali du jour tasting plate for just €10. There are alo plenty of veggie plates for the granola types among you. Waiters are quick to put their cigarettes down to replenish your carafe. Unfortunately, no alcohol is served here; we consider this to be a human right's violation. Saint-Georges. At lunch (entrée, plat, naan) €10. Menu (entrée, plat, naan, cafe) €17. Desserts €5. Plats €7-13. Tu-Sa, 11am-2:30pm and 7-11pm Takes credit cards.
No Stress Cafe, 24 rue Clauzel 48 78 00 27 No Stress Cafe adds an American twist to the cafe experience, and fosters an appropriately relaxed, American atmosphere (hence the name). The inside seating option has a Starbucks-meets-Cheers vibe, while the terrace hits you with a multi-colored bright table configuration. This is, unfortunately, a pretty expensive joint—the stress definitely hits when you get the bill. The giant salad menu should do well for vegetarians. Plats €13.50-€17.50. Woks €15-18. Salads €14-€15.50. Desserts €7.50-€8.50. Does not take credit cards.
Comme Par Hasard, 48 rue Notre Dame de Lorette (☎06 28 25 51 23), Comme Par Hasard is a small sandwich shop that offers affordable options, ideal for take-out or a quick bite outside on the terrace (or inside the claustrophobic dining room). The sandwiches certainly aren't your standard boulangerie jambon beurre or crudite salade tomate that any student in Paris is all too familiar with. Try the “Pignon” sandwich with fig butter, smoked duck, and tomatoes for a flavorful, cheap midday belly-filler (€5.10). The tarts and desserts are also tasty (€2-4.60). Does not take credit cards.
Le Select, 37 rue des Martyrs (☎01 53 20 00 67), This neighborhood favorite serves exceptional cafe fare to residents, and sports an exceptional terrace overlooking the bustling rue des Martyrs. Sip that latte outside and watch local schoolchildren terrorize pedestrians, frazzled parents try to discipline said children, and rebellious tweens saunter home with baguettes in hand for dinner. If people watching isn't really your scene, booths are available inside for families, and tables run along the sides of the restaurant around the fully stocked bar. The food is quite tasty; salads are prepared with fresh veggies, and the cuts of steak are thick and juicy. Does not take credit cards.
Le Brigadier, 12, rue Blanche A collection of small children and unbearably cute English spaniels run through this small and deliciously airy cafe; cat lovers are rumored to not be allowed on the premises. Nestled in a residential area of the 9ème, Le Brigadier offers a relaxed vibe and reasonably cheap menu that make it a favorite with young local families. The “traditional” cuisine here is a bit uninspired; the house wine needs to breathe a little (€3), and the panaché is made with Sprite (€4). But really, when you need a stiff drink these are very minor details. Does not take credit cards. Serves alcohol.