Paris Bastille

With as many kebab stands as people, Bastille swells with fast-food joints. But the diverse neighborhood also boasts a number of classy restaurants with an ethnic touch, many of which are cheaper than those in the more central arrondissements. The most popular haunts line the bustling rues de Charonne, Keller, de Lappe, and Oberkampf. In terms of food, the 12ème is a generally affordable arrondissement, where casual establishments serve a variety of cuisines, from North African to Middle Eastern to traditional French. Most of the better places are on side streets, scattered throughout the neighborhood. On rue du Faubourg St-Antoine there's a slew of nice but overpriced restaurants competing with cheap fast food spots; the Viaduc des Arts hosts a couple of classy terrace cafes where designers take up residence.

Cafe de l'Industrie, 15-17 rue St-Sabin (☎01 47 00 13 53), There's a reason that podunk cafes specialize in coffee, but the menu at this one will make you forget it. Funky 20-somethings retreat in this always bustling, kind of dark spot, enjoying the extensive, fairly priced menu. The 3-course formule is a steal (€10.50); the chocolate cake is nothing short of divine (€3). Breguet-Sabin. Plats €8-14. Desserts €2.50-6. Open daily 10am-2am. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Le Bar à Soupes, 33 rue de Charonne (☎01 43 57 53 79; www.lebarasoupes.com), It may not have the most personality in the world, but it does have some of the best soups in Paris. Making them fresh daily, the chef commits to creatively combining flavors like leeks and curry or zucchini and ginger. The salad and dessert selection is less spectacular. Ledru-Rollin or Bastille. Soups €4.90-5.90. Formule midi includes soup, bread roll, salad, dessert or cheese plate, wine, iced tea or coffee. Take away available. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 6:30-11pm. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
L'Empreinte, 54 av. Daumensil (☎01 43 47 25 59; www.lempreinte.fr), A domesticated jungle theme extends from the food to decor; traditional French dishes are given an exotic twist, and potted plants grow freely inside. Gare de Lyon. Credit card min. €15. Salads €11-12. Plats €13.50-15.50. Formules €12.80-13.80 Open M-Sa 7am-11pm. Food served noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Morry's Bagels and Toasts, 1 rue de Charonne (☎01 48 07 03 03), Trust the French to make bagels fancy; bold statements like the Magret de Canard (bagel with guacamole, cream cheese and sundried tomatoes (€5.80) and the foie gras (self-explanatory; €5.90) are daring but delicious. Bastille. Bagels w/coleslaw €3-5.90. Desserts €1.50-3.35 Open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm. Takes credit cards. Has outdoor seating.
Babylone, 21 rue Daval (☎01 47 00 55 02), Distracted by the neon lights, snazzy music and trendy atmosphere, you might forget that you're overpaying for Middle Eastern fast food. Still, if you're tired of the semi-sketchy and hole-in-the-wall places that usually sell falafel here, this upscale joint might be a welcome upgrade. Bastille. Entrees €4.60. Shawarma plates €8.60-10. Falafel plates €8.60-9.50. Open M 11am-3pm, Tu-F 11am-3pm and 6:30pm-midnight, Sa 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards.
L'Ebauchoir, 45 rue de Citeaux 01 43 42 49 31 (www.lebauchoir.com), Colorful restaurant packed with colorful people. Serves only European meats and fish with a creative twist. Notable wine menu. Takes credit cards.
Pause Café, 41 rue de Charonne 01 48 06 80 33 Hipster glasses are an unofficial pre-req for working here. An alternative and lively crowd gathers on the large outdoor terrace and peruses the slightly uninspired menu; the daily chalkboard specials are more interesting. Run-down chic, but cool enough to be featured in the film Chacun Cherche Son Chat. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
La Bague de Kenza, 106 rue St-Maur 01 43 14 93 15 Parisians make pilgrimages to buy their own sweet bit from pyramids of Algerian pastries—most of which are built up from nuts, butter, honey, and/or dried fruits (€1.70-3). Fluffy or dense Algerian bread comes in all variety of fried flavors (€2.10-3.50). Takes credit cards.
Le Cheval de Troie, 71 rue de Charenton 01 43 44 24 44 (www.chevaltroie.com), A festive Oriental restaurant specializing in grilled meat platters. Savory Turkish food served right up with Orientalist fantasies. Traditional Arabic music jingles and clatters in the background. Takes credit cards.
Morry's Bagels & Toasts, 1 rue de Charonne 01 48 07 03 03 Trust the French to make bagels fancy; bold statements like the Magret de Canard (bagel with guacamole, cream cheese and sundried tomatoes; €5.80) and the Foie Gras (€5.90) are daring but delicious. Takes credit cards. Has outdoor seating.
Les P'tites Indécises, 2 rue des 3 Bornes 01 43 57 26 00 Opting for brighter colors and daring dishes, this vaguely tropical bistro defies the expectations of a typical French cafe. Rebel plats include gnocchi with a truffle sauce (€12.90) and lamb marinated with honey and rosemary (€15.90). Takes credit cards.
Chez Paul, 13 rue de Charonne 01 47 00 34 57 (www.chezpaul.com), Chez Paul is as charming and warm as bistros tend to be, with mustard walls and a touch of class, farm-style. Don't let the obscenely long list of entrees distract you from delicious mains like pepper steak with cognac (€19.50). Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Café Charbon, 109 rue Oberkampf 01 43 57 55 13 Still riding on its fin de siecle dance-hall days, this restaurant and bar continues to pack a steady crowd into its beautiful interior. Soaring ceilings and burnished mirrors make for some run-down glamour. Takes credit cards.
Le Bistrot du Peintre, 116 ave. Ledru-Rollin 01 47 00 34 39 (www.bistrotdupeintre.com), The classy, artsy bistrot sticks to its Art Nouveau roots, and maintains its faded dark wood paneling, curvy mirrors, ornate floral tiles, and ivy-covered facade with care. An outdoor table here is just the place for the sociable clientele to watch the 11ème whirl, clang, and honk by. Takes credit cards.
Restaurant Assoce, 48bis rue St-Maur 01 43 55 73 82 One of the classiest eat in/eat out ethnic restaurants around. The extensive list of hot and cold entrees (€4.10-8.40) are a tempting way to warm up before the main course. Takes credit cards.
L'Oga, 8 rue JP Timbaud 01 43 57 60 15 (www.loga-resto.com), A leather-and-lace interior with red-and-black tables and mismatched antiques wed punk and old elegance for a kinky-posh mix. Le Brunch by L'Oga every Su with 3 assiettes to choose from Anglaise, Asie and Terroir (€24-26). Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
American Bistrot, 74 rue de la Folie Méricourt 09 81 86 99 72 A half-hearted stylish upgrade on a diner, with the prices to match. They serve up the classics like cheeseburgers (€12.50-15.50), sandwiches and bagels (€12-13.5). Strawberry and banana milkshakes (€6) are given a French feel and are dressed up with fancy names. Takes credit cards.
Sarl Chistol, 18 rue Daval 01 48 05 28 72 It looks and feels like a bar, but for six hours a day it masquerades as a restaurant. Menu is limited to the absolute French favorites (no need to get ambitious) like magret de canard, salmon filet, beef tartare, and roasted chicken. Takes credit cards.
Marché Bastille, on Bld. Richard-Lenoir from pl. de la Bastille north to rue St-Sabin Weave through stalls stacked high with produce, cheese, exotic mushrooms, bread, fish, meat, flowers, second-hand clothing, and housewares with a mob of Parisians. The choices are seemingly endless in the sea of items stretching from Richard Lenoir to Bastille.
Marché Beauvau St-Antoine, on Pl. d'Aligre between rue de Charenton and rue Crozatier We don't know if local vendors sentimentally chose to set up shop in pl. d'Aligre because of its (verbal) proximity to Algeria, but it sure feels like they did; the market here is like a quick trip to a Middle Eastern souk. Halal butcher shops, florists and delis frame the line of stalls staffed by shouting men.
Marché Popincourt, on Bld. Richard-Lenoir between rue Oberkampf and rue JP Timbaud A less famous market in the 11ème with fresh, well-priced fruits, vegetables, meat and fish. The occasional vendor spices things up, selling essentials like socks, sunglasses, shoes, shirts, and underwear.