Paris Butte-Aux-Cailles And Chinatown (13Ème)

Unbeknownst to many a tourist, the 13ème is a haven for funky, fun and affordable restaurants. Bump elbows with locals over papier-mached tables in the crowded Butte-Aux-Cailles, or enjoy the unfathomable delights of Chinatown's many Asian restaurants. Eating on a budget never tasted better, especially in Paris.

Mussuwam, 33 bld. Arago (☎01 45 35 93 67; mussuwam.fr), The new kid on the block, Mussuwam offers Senegalese cuisine in an area dominated by Southern French restaurants. Creole music, chocolate brown walls, and a colorful decor creates an ethnic feel. Fresh juices (€5) are a highlight of the tropical menu. Les Gobelins. Plat du jour €15. M-Sa noon-3pm et 7pm-11:30pm, Su 11am-3pm. Takes credit cards.
Le Samson, 9 rue Jean-Marie Jego (☎01 45 89 09 23), Run by a Franco-Greek owner, the restaurant offers reasonably priced options and generous portions. It attracts a slightly older, but local crowd. Kids menu €11. Menu Complet €18.50. Open daily noon-2:30pm and 7-11:30pm. Takes credit cards.
Chez Gladines, 30 rue des 5 Diamants (☎01 45 80 70 10), This no fuss restaurant specializing in Southwest and Basques cuisine is a neighborhood institution. Rowdy patrons and starving students ignore the neighbors' pleas to keep it down, and continue to consume endless amounts of wine over huge salads (€7.60-€9.80). Come early to avoid long lines. Does not take credit cards.
Tang Freres, 48 Ave. d'Ivry (☎01 45 70 80 00), This commerical complex features a bakery, charcuterie, fish counter, flower shop, and grocery store. The mouth-watering smell will hit you like a bus. A good place to stock up on cheap Asian beer (Singha €1) and bags of nuts (€1.30-6). The instant noodle selection spreads an entire aisle. Takes credit cards.
La Butte aux Cailles Creperie, 33 rue Bobillot (☎01 45 80 07 07; creperie.labutteauxcailles@wanadoo.fr), Quieter than the surrounding neighborhood restaurants, La Butte aux Cailles Creperie is like a calm retreat into a Southern enclave. The wide range of salty, sweet, and flambé gourmet crepes (€5-8) are delicious, if somewhat forgettable. The award-winning cider is a different story (€3). You'll leave drunk and satisfied. Does not take credit cards. Serves alcohol.
Les Temps des Cerises, 18-20 rue de la Butte-aux-cailles (☎01 45 89 69 48), Another popular option on rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, the restaurant is a cooperative workers' society of production and more succinctly, a neighborhood fixture. The menu is extensive and the atmosphere is convivial, waiters are more apt to treat you like a friend than a customer. Takes credit cards. Has outdoor seating.