Batignolles (17ème)
Far from tourist attractions, the 17 ème ’s restaurants depend on local support. Fortunately, the district’s economic and ethnic diversity translates into delicious,
gastronomical variety. For high-quality, cheap eats, wander around the Village Batignolles, around rue des Batignolles and
north of rue des Dames.
- La Fournée d’Augustine, 31 rue des Batignolles, 17 ème (☎01 43 87 88 41). Rome. With Gare St-Lazare to your right, walk down bd. des Batignolles, then turn left on rue des Batignolles. This closet-sized
pâtisserie bakes an absolutely fantastic baguette (€1), and with lines out the door at lunchtime, it’s hard to miss. Their fresh sandwiches
(€3-4) range from light fare like goat cheese and cucumber to the more substantial grilled chicken and veggies. Grab a pain au chocolat (€1.05) or a delicately decorated brownie (€2.40) for later. Lunch formule €5.80-7; includes dessert, drink, and sandwich. Open M-Sa 7:30am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V over 10.
- Le Patio Provençal, 116 rue des Dames, 17 ème (☎01 42 93 73 73). Villiers. Follow rue de Levis away from the intersection and turn right on rue des Dames. An airy, rustic restaurant,
Le Patio Provençal serves southern French staples, such as ravioles de Royans (Dauphiné specialty, €8.50-12). Absinthe €4.60-6. 3-course menu €28. Entrées €7.50-8.50. Plats €12-20. Desserts €7.50. Often busy; service can be slow. Reservations recommended. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-11pm. MC/V.
- The James Joyce Pub, 71 bd. Gouvion-St-Cyr, 17 ème (☎01 44 09 70 32; www.kittyosheas.com). Porte Maillot. Take the Palais de Congrès exit from the metro; walk down bd. Gouvion St-Cyr past
Palais de Congrès. On the corner of rue Belidor. Stained-glass windows dedicated to Joyce’s novels and other Irish wordsmiths
brighten the upstairs restaurant and downstairs bar. Good for a traditional Irish meal like stew with bacon and cabbage or
ham with spuds and cheese (€10), the Joyce swells to capacity during televised rugby matches. Functions as an informal tourist
office for middle-aged and young Anglophone expats. Beer €4.50-7. Mixed drinks €10. Sa-Su jazz brunch noon-3pm. F-Sa 10pm
live DJ. Su 9:30pm open mic. Open daily noon-2am. Kitchen open M-F noon-3pm and 7-10:30pm, Sa-Su noon-3pm. AmEx/MC/V.
- Au Vieux Logis, 68 rue des Dames, 17 ème (☎01 43 87 77 27). Rome. Take rue Boursault to rue des Dames; the restaurant is on the corner. Despite heavy acclaim, this friendly provincial
bar-restaurant has not lost local following. Its traditional but limited 3-course menu (€20) changes daily. Plats €12-16. “Summer Salads” made with fresh fruit and veggies €13. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
- Villa des Ternes, 35 rue Guersant, 17 ème (☎01 45 74 23 86). Porte Maillot. Take bd. Gouvion-St-Cyr past the Palais de Congrès and turn right on rue Guersant. This quaint Italian
bistrot specializes in simple pizzas (€10-14) crafted from basic ingredients like egg, fish, ham, and buffalo mozzarella. Pasta €9-11.
Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
- Joy in Food, 2 rue Truffant, 17 ème (☎01 43 87 96 79). Place de Clichy. Take bd. de Batignolles, turn right on rue Biot, then left on rue des Dames, then right on rue Truffaut.
Vegetarian omelettes, pâtés, salads, tarts, and organic wine grace tables draped in blue and white gingham at this cozy, macrobiotic restaurant. Lunch
formule €11, 3-course menu €14. Desserts like apple crumble €4. Open M-F noon-2:30pm. MC/V.
- L’Étoile du Kashmir, 1 rue des Batignolles, 17 ème (☎01 45 22 44 70). Rome. With Gare St-Lazare to your right, take bd. des Batignolles and turn left on rue des Batignolles. Serves Indian
classics in a colorfully-lit interior. The 2-course lunch formule with vegetarian options (€7.50) appeals to the budget-conscious, while the adventurous spring for the two-person “chef’s
surprise” (€33). Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 6:30-11:30pm, Su 6:30-11:30pm. 15% off takeout.
- 3 Pièces Cuisine, 25 rue de Chéroy, 17 ème (☎01 44 90 85 10). Villiers. From rue de Levis, turn right on rue des Dames. Walls blasted in bright colors and attractive bartenders courting
locals create this cafe-bar’s funky, hip vibe. The upbeat jazz music and cheap coffee (€1.50) provide the perfect pick-me-up.
For a light dinner, try the Cléopatra or Marie-Antoinette salad (€8.80). Beer €2.70-3. Mixed drinks €7. Fries €2.30. Brunch
€10, children €5. Open M-F 8:30am-2am, Sa-Su 9:30am-2am. Kitchen open daily noon-3pm and 8-10:30pm. MC/V.
- L’Endroit, 67 place du Dr. Félix Lobligeois, 17 ème (☎01 42 29 50 00). Rome. Follow rue Boursault to rue Legendre and turn right. Look for the blue exterior, the sprawling terrace, and the
revolving tower of liquor. Too cool for school no matter what hour, L’Endroit is “the spot” to be seen day or night. 4-course
weekend brunch (noon-4:15pm; €22) headlines a long menu packed with numerous big salads (€11-16) and toasted sandwiches (€13.70).
Open daily 10am-2am. Kitchen open noon-11:45pm; lunch and dinner specials served noon-3pm and 7:30-11:15pm. AmEx/MC/V.
- Café Hortensias, 4 place du Maréchal de Juin, 17 ème (☎01 47 63 43 39). Pereire or RER C: Pereire Levallois. Just off bd. Pereire. A mostly local crowd enjoys simple, summery fare in an airy
rotunda. Wine €6. Menu includes croque monsieur (€5.50), gazpacho (€8), and salads (€9.50). Most dishes €9-16. Dinner menu €20. Open M-F 9-1am, Sa-Su 8-1am. Food served 11am-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.
- Marché Berthier, on bd. de Reims between rue de Courcelles and rue du Marquis d’Arlandes, along place Ulmann, 17 ème . Porte de Champerret. Turn left off bd. Berthier on rue de Courcelles, then right on bd. de Reims. Among the cheapest produce
markets in Paris. Discover North African and Middle Eastern specialties like fresh mint, Turkish bread, and baklava in addition
to the standard inexpensive clothes, perfumes, shoes, and seafood. Open W 7am-2:30pm, Sa 7am-3pm.
- Batignolles Organic Produce Market, on the traffic divider along bd. des Batignolles, border of 8 ème and 17 ème . Rome. Exit the metro and, with Gare St-Lazare on your right, walk down bd. des Batignolles. Let's Go: Paris meets Let's Go: Green —this market brings in the best organic produce around. Open Sa 9am-2pm.
- Batignolles Covered Market, 96bis rue Lemercier, 17 ème . Brochant. On the other side of rue des Batignolles, between rue Clairaut and rue des Moines. Provides faithful working-class
and elderly locals with near daily fresh cheese, flowers, meat, and produce. Open Tu-Sa 8:30am-1pm and 4-7:30pm, Su 8am-1pm.
Overview
