Paris Batignolles (17ème)

If residents had to make a pilgrimage into central Paris every time they wanted a good meal, no one would live in the 17ème. Thankfully, good restaurants are a dime a dozen here, and the diverse population that lives here make for a wide array of choices, from ethnic to French to vegetarian.

Le Manoir, 7 rue des Moines (☎01 46 27 54 51), A true neighborhood favorite, Le Manoir is popular with the kind of cool, fun Parisians you'd want to hang out with. Local parents meet their children in front of the cafe's red awning to pick them up after school. The waiters here are so friendly you'd think there was a catch. When a certain intrepid Let's Go Researcher left her computer in her nearby apartment, the young waitress offered to watch her drink for her while she ran home to get it—even though the Researcher hadn't paid yet. The menu is comprized of local standards, and is particularly well-known for its salads (€11). Brochant. Free Wi-Fi. Plats €13, two-course menu midi €12, salmon tartare €13.20. Open daily 7:30am-2am. Has internet.
La Fournée d'Augustine, 31 rue des Batignolles (☎01 43 87 88 41), It's no mystery why La Fournée d'Augustine won Paris's medaille d'or in 2004. Luring in customers with the delicious aroma of freshly baked pastries, this boulangerie is everything you thought Paris would smell like: butter, chocolate, and heaven in general. The wide selection of desserts is reasonably priced (cakes €4; pain au chocolat €0.80). Fresh sandwiches (€3-4) and other lunch options are also available. The storefront can be hard to spot, so look for the boulangerie white, wooden tiles painted with lilacs, and follow the smell. Rome. Donuts €0.60. Loaf of brioche €4.60. M-Sa 7:30am-8pm.
Au Vieux Logis, 68 rue des Dames (☎01 43 87 72 27; website), This standard French bistro serves standard French fare on standard red checkered tablecoths in a pleasant atmosphere. Would be utterly forgettable if not for its absolutely delicious food and generous portions. No wonder there are so many regulars. Rome. Plat du jour €10, plats €12-16, 2-course lunch menu €12. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Batignolles Organic Produce Market, Bld. de Batignolles Stretching across Bld. de Batignolles every Saturday morning, the Batignolles Organic Produce Market is a delectable jumble of sporadically-singing shoppers, hats, bottles of apple cider, scarves, loaves of bread, and obscenely large hunks of cheese, not to mention organic fruits and vegetables. Construct a gourmet picnic lunch with ease and schlep it to the nearby Square des Batignolles on a fine day. Prices vary widely.
Le Patio Provencal, 116 rue des Dames 01 42 93 73 73 (www.patioprovencal.fr), Airy and cool with a trickling fountain inside, this restaurant tricks you into thinking you're outside. The menu features standard cuisine from the South of France, but the stone walls, black wooden benches, and sprigs of lavender recreate a peaceful Southern atmosphere. Serves alcohol.
Joy in Food, 2 rue Truffaut 01 43 87 96 79 In Paris, a vegetarian establishment is about as rare as obesity. This macrobiotic restaurant boasts an exclusively veggie menu, though a limited one, in what looks like your French mother's kitchen. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
3 Pieces Cuisine, 25 rue de Cheroy 01 44 90 85 10 Moving away from the precious options on the rue Batignolles, this cafe provides a more funky, laid-back atmosphere. The menu is limited to cheeseburgers, tartines, and salades, but the portions are huge. Young crowds of locals and English-speaking tourists play Chinese checkers and French trivia games over brunch (€10).
Batignolles Covered Market, 96bis rue Lemercier Large selection of fresh produce, meat, cheese, and wine for weekday grocery shopping. Also sells ready-made Senegalese food. Wheelchair access.
Etoile du Kashmir, 1 rue des Batignolles 01 45 22 44 70 Specializing in Indian and Pakistani Cuisine, the restaurant serves up a number of classics. The plain, cheese, and garlic naan are a specialty and reasonably priced (€1.50), though prices can go up from there; we thought it was a sign that most of the customers were drinking Evian instead of tap water. Glowing decor features white tablecloths and engraved wood paneling. Many vegetarian options. If you want it spicy, say so; otherwise expect a fairly tasteless meal.